Changes On The ICW

We have now made more than a dozen round trips on the ICW between the Florida Keys and the Chesapeake, the first being almost two decades ago. Since that first trip, we have seen many, many changes. Some are positive and many not so. It was during this last trip that we really had the opportunity to ponder those changes and how they affected our perception of the waterway. We still remember the awe and wonder we enjoyed on that first trip. We also remember the anxiety and anticipation of the unknown. There is almost one article each month in almost every boating publication that covers some part of it. In this article I would like to reflect on those changes we have seen and experienced.

The ICW officially begins at mile marker zero in Norfolk, but for many, the journey begins much further north, usually somewhere in the Chesapeake or even as far as Maine. The trip to mile marker zero can be as exciting or as daunting as the waterway itself. Offshore or near offshore conditions are not uncommon and the boat and crew need to be prepared. Two things we noticed almost immediately on our run down the Chesapeake were that the traffic was going to be horrendous and the anchorages were going to be very crowded. The first day out we counted over twenty five boats within our immediate vicinity, all going the same direction. We remembered that first trip when we had long stretches of water alone and we were the only boat in many of the anchorages.

One sure sign of the changes in our society is the constant and vigilant presence of our military and law enforcement. From the Annapolis area to Norfolk, Virginia, we were within sight of a naval vessel at all times. After we entered the Norfolk area near the Naval yards the patrols and security were everywhere. Any vessel that strayed to the shipyard side of the channel was immediately intercepted by a security boat. Their approach was no nonsense. Their command was for you to move to the other side of the channel immediately or be arrested. We were buzzed at mast head level by fighter jets on the Pamlico Sound. The Marines at Camp LaJeune were practicing exercises day and night. We did anchor in Mile Hammock Bay in Camp Lajeune with no problem. As a matter of fact we and the twenty five other boats anchored there felt very safe and secure. The main ship channel in Miami was closed to boat traffic whenever a cruise ship was in port and the Coast Guard escorted most large vessels in and out of ports. Coast Guard and local law enforcement are constantly posted in all major ports we passed through.

It seems to have become acceptable for some newbie’s to hook up with what we dubbed the waterway Gurus. A fine old salt that had probably made the trip several times, or at least once, and taken some poor inexperienced crews under their wing. The Gurus planned out the trips each day, decided how far and at what speed their little groups should travel and where the anchorage for the evening would be. After communicating this information each morning, the group would then head out with the Guru at the lead, making all contact with bridge tenders for the group and making sure everyone was staying together. This made for interesting entertainment when two or more groups converged at a narrow part of the waterway and particularly at bridges. And it was a little confusing as to which Guru was directing which group. When we accidentally mixed in on occasion it was always made clear that “they are not with us”. It was also the Gurus responsibility to troubleshoot problems aboard any of their charges vessels as they presented themselves.

One of the sadder changes we noticed was the loss of camaraderie we had known over the years. With the forming of the “groups” it seemed that other boats and crews were considered outsiders and socializing outside the “group” was not a good idea. Fortunately there are still a few of the old time snow birds still making the trip that you still can meet up with old friends along the way. It may just be that with so many, many new cruisers, the mind set and attitudes of living ashore have not been shaken and the cruising mentality has just not yet taken hold. We can only hope.

Shoaling of the waterway has always been a problem, even on that first trip south. Some areas are still being dredged, but many others are not. Playing the tides and staying perfectly in the channel is sometimes the only way a deep draft vessel can use the waterway. Many times we “farmed the bottom” mid channel at mid tide. We often observed vessels running from channel marker to channel marker. We also observed some of those vessels running aground. A commercial tug Captain once told us to pretend we were a tug pushing an eighty foot barge when we transited the narrow channels. He suggested that dredging was done to accommodate the commercial traffic and not the pleasure boats. By imitating what a tug and barge would do, we would always find the deeper water. It worked just as he had told us. Meetings are currently being scheduled up and down the east coast to discuss the impact to local communities and the boating public in general. There is talk about closing parts of the waterway. We feel this would be devastating. Each year the problem in some areas is increasing. As funds are diverted to more security and other issues the dredging of the waterway becomes less and less a priority.

Another more serious change we have seen is a real lack of good common sense and seamanship. Perhaps this too is due to the increase in the number of first timers to this annual migration. Each day the VHF brought vessels chastising each other, and there is much use of unkind words and phrases that we could not publish in this article. The waterway was designed and built for all vessels small and large to use but there seems to be two opposing groups. There are those that can travel fairly fast (you know who you are) and those that can not travel very fast (you know who you are). These groups seem to have become diametrically opposed and unable to transit the same body of water without some colorful conversations. It appears more and more that one group has taken a delight in making the other group as uncomfortable as possible. The unfortunate consequences are that at some point someone will get seriously harmed. There are certain rules for preventing that situation but in many instances neither side seems interested in those rules. In the interest of informing those unfamiliar, the rules of overtaking state that if you can not safely pass another vessel, you do not pass. Common courtesy from the boats that can’t travel very fast (you know who you are) dictates that you slow as much as possible to allow boats that can go faster (you know who you are) to pass safely. Those boats that can travel faster (you know who you are) must slow to a safe speed and reduce their wake so as not to cause damage or injury on the other vessel. Here is the procedure we have used successfully over the years without any complaints. We always approach the slower vessel dead astern of them and slow down to match their speed. We then call the vessel ahead to let them know we are there, which side we will pass on and ask them to slow down so that we can pass. We then pass as close in to the slower vessel as can be done safely and then move directly in front as soon as it is safe to do so. Once we are in front of the vessel we have passed, we can increase speed and go on our way with little inconvenience or discomfort to the other crew. It is a very simple procedure, but one that many have not yet mastered. Why can’t we all just get along?

I can’t mention the VHF without noting how many of our trucker friends seem to have made the conversion to boating. The chatter on the radio daily is full of folks wanting to know what their friends “20” is and if so and so “has their ears on”. To our brethren from the highway we say welcome. We are sure you will bring your professionalism with you to the water. That’s a big 10/4 good buddy.

We have many favorite anchorages and towns along the waterway and noticed the biggest changes here. Ten years ago we could travel for very long stretches without seeing any signs of civilization. It even caused a little anxiety in that we worried that if we had a serious breakdown, help was not close by. Many small towns brought welcome packages to the new boats that arrived each day. After this last trip we fear the time is not too far off that the waterway will be totally developed from one end to the other. Even now there are very few miles of unspoiled areas. It seems that many of our favorite towns have discovered the potential income from visiting boaters. Large anchorage areas such as Annapolis, Charleston, Vero Beach, and Marathon, to name a few, have set mooring buoys and are now charging cruisers. The City of St. Augustine is currently considering installing a mooring field in the entire anchorage area. We do understand some of the reasoning behind this. It is another case of a few spoiling it for the many. A number of our favorite towns along the way are off our must stop list because there are so many derelict boats anchored that there is only room for a few cruisers and the unattended boats are a safety hazard in bad weather. These poorly maintained, sometimes abandoned vessels become a burden on the local government when they sink or become navigational hazards. With the increase in the number of boats making the trek each year, this makes finding decent anchoring spots in these towns almost impossible.

Not all the news is negative. There is still enough area out there that peace and solitude can still be found. You just need to study the charts and look for places other than those written up in the guides. Many cruisers rush North or South and miss the great places off the beaten path. Small towns on the Pamlico Sound and Neuse River that many bypass still remind us of what cruising these areas was like that decade ago. Towns like Great Bridge Virginia still have free dockage and most conveniences are nearby. Elizabeth City still welcomes cruisers with a free town dock. St. Mary’s, Georgia has discovered the economic benefit of the cruising community. They have completely rebuilt the waterfront area making it very attractive to the boater. Yet few have discovered it. We have found anchorages some days by just making a right or left turn at the end of the day and dropping the hook close in to shore, just off the waterway. We do as much offshore running as weather will permit. We have to chuckle as we sail along the coast and listen to the shouts on the VHF from those inside. The numbers of bridges that have been replaced by 65’ spans since that first trip are increasing. Although care should be taken if your vessel has a tall rig. It seems some engineers have lost their tape measures and bridge height is not as advertised. Timing your trip so that you are not traveling during the peak part of the season can much improve your experience as well as following the rules of the road and maintaining a sense of humor. Nothing makes the trip more enjoyable than having your boat properly prepared and the crew well educated for what they will encounter along the way. Read the articles, cruising guides, and study the charts well in advance. And even then remain flexible and open. Safety and good seamanship are important on the ICW, the ocean, or sailing in your local waters.

Slow down and smell the fish fry’s. Make the entire ICW as much a part of your destination as where you plan to spend the winter months. Give your fellow travelers a wave along the way and dinghy over at the anchorage and say hi. We have made many friends for life just practicing these simple courtesies.

Marine Trader Review

Marine Trader 34 Double Cabin

At the time of the fuel crisis of the 1970s trawler yachts enjoyed a brief period of increased popularity when fast powerboats, with fuel-guzzling engines, fell out of favor among powerboat owners. But, as boaters became more and more used to paying higher prices for fuel and the relative cost of fuel dropped, fewer people seemed to find these slow, plodding vessels attractive and their popularity waned.

However, driven by aging sailors searching for less demanding vessels and retires in search of a slower paced boating lifestyle, the last several years have seen a resurgence in the popularity of this type of vessel to the point that market demand has outstripped the supply of some models.

This style vessel is what is commonly referred to as a trawler yacht due to its resemblance, in appearance, to a commercial fishing trawler. The Marine Trader 34 Double Cabin is 33’-6" in length overall with a 30’-3" waterline length a maximum beam of 11’-9" and draft of 3’-6". The hull has a V-shaped bottom with a sharp entry forward that flattens considerably at the stern. There is an integral keel that runs nearly the entire length of the vessel. The keel fairs into the bottom near the bow and drops more than two feet below the bottom near the stern affording protection for the propeller and rudder.
 

The 34 is imported by Marine Trading International of Toms River, NJ, is built by CHB Marine in Taiwan and was introduced in 1974. The model remains in production 27 years after her introduction and is unquestionably the most popular trawler-styled yacht of this size ever sold in the U.S.

Marine Trader 34 hulls are built of a solid composite which consists primarily of chopped-strand fiberglass mat and resin. Longitudinal support is provided by wood stringers and athwart ship support provided by plywood bulkheads both of which are attached with or encased in resin and chopped-strand mat. This is far from what might be considered "high tech" boat building. In fact, there is little, if any, use of stitched or woven fiberglass fabrics that are generally considered to be significantly stronger than the materials used. However, in spite of the lack of well-engineered fiberglass composites and a propensity for osmotic blistering, the hulls of these vessels have held up reasonably well over the years. One must keep in mind though that these boats travel less than 10 miles per hour, seldom venture offshore out of the sight of land and are stressed very little.

Since the introduction of the 1985 model, the 34’s have been constructed with a molded, single piece fiberglass deck and deckhouse with balsa and plywood used for reinforcing. Post 1985 models have had their share of window and hardware leaks, however they have been significantly less problematic than their predecessors. Models built prior to 1985 were built with teak planked decks fastened through fiberglass into a plywood sub-deck. Teak decks were an option after 1985. Models built prior to 1975 also were built with plywood cabin houses sheathed in fiberglass cloth. The quality of workmanship, the integrity of joiner work and bedding of joints was very poor on these earlier models and, nearly without exception, has resulted in significant damage to decks and cabins as a result of water migration.

Restricted to a length of just under 34’, the designers have done an excellent job laying out an efficient deck area while, at the same time, maximizing interior space and accommodations. This is undoubtedly a primary reasons for the continued popularity of this model.

The side decks are quite wide and allow an adult to pass from bow to stern safely and comfortably. There is a substantial bulwark surrounding the deck and an added handrail for a safe, secure feeling. The foredeck and aft deck are necessarily small although there is space on the aft deck for a couple of folding deck chairs. The flybridge is accessed by ladders from the aft deck and atop the aft cabin and encompasses the entire main saloon cabin top. The bridge area can accommodate six adults comfortably although I would suggest such a load, over a period of time, will seriously stress the structure of the cabin top and owners should attempt to limit the loads to 800 lbs or less. There is access to the cabin from the aft deck through a sailboat-like sliding hatch and companionway and along the starboard side to the main saloon through a fore and aft sliding door.

The 34 is rigged with a mast and boom for carrying a steadying sail although, in most cases, the mast is used only for mounting radar and radio antennas or raising flags.

The main drawback to the deck layout is that there is no convenient location for carrying a dinghy on deck without seriously limiting access.

Whether going away for a weekend or an extended cruise the Marine Trader 34 Double Cabin is a very livable boat which offers completely separate and private accommodations for two adult couples, plus plenty of room for stores and belongings. Headroom is well over 6’ throughout and interior furnishings are recognizably Taiwanese with teak everywhere except for cushions, deckhead liners and some counter tops. Even with all the dark finishes, there are plenty of windows and ports to keep the interior from appearing dark.

The forward cabin has port and starboard berths arranged in a "V" configuration that are large enough to be comfortable for an adult. The cabin also has a large hanging locker opposite a head with integral shower. The side on which the head and hanging locker are arranged may differ with the year of the boat.

The main saloon area is mid-ship and features a galley forward along the port side with a small settee aft. To starboard, there is an L-shaped dinette aft and a lower helm forward. Access to the engine room is through the main saloon cabin sole.

In the aft cabin there is a double berth along the starboard side along with a second head with integral shower. Along the port side there is a single berth (usually used for extra storage) and a large hanging locker.

The standard engine offered on the Marine Trader 34, since its introduction, has been a single, six cylinder, Ford Lehman marine diesel. Early on this engine was rated at 120 hp and later models increase in rated horsepower to 135. Over the years there have been several larger engines as well as twin engine options offered although I think its safe to say the majority of 34s were fit with the very dependable, standard Ford Lehman engine.

Powered with the standard engine the 34 is not a fast boat however, she is extremely efficient when operating at displacement hull speed. At 8.5-mph she sips a mere 2.2 gallons of fuel per hour and will cover a range of more than 900 miles between fuel stops on her 300-gallon fuel supply. This efficiency disappears rapidly however when pushed to the limit and, at a maximum speed of about 10-mph, [a 19% increase] fuel consumption jumps to a whopping 7.3-gph [a 230% increase] and range is more than cut in half. Similar small increases in speed at the cost of fuel consumption can be expected with larger engine options. For example, the optional 210-hp Cummins diesel will increase the maximum speed to around 14-mph, consume more than 12-gph and reduce effective range to under 300 miles.

Steering controls are either mechanical or hydraulic depending on the year of manufacture and both tend to be a little sluggish. Generally speaking, handling is what is expected for size and style of boat and acceptable once one gets used to the less responsive feel of the helm.

It is not uncommon for older model Marine trader 34s to need significant repairs. The most expensive and common problems are badly deteriorated teak overlaid decks and rusted leaking fuel tanks. Deck repairs can range from $5,000 to more than $20,000 depending on the seriousness of the problem. Although I have seen a number of steel fuel tanks successfully patched, repaired tanks are more prone to spring a leak somewhere else and the best course of action is replacement. The engine must be moved or removed to replace the tanks so, on top of the cost of about $1,500 each for fuel tanks, the installation is likely to cost another $2,500 to $3,000.

Even newer model vessels may have problems in need of attention. For example, the builder does not strictly adhere to the voluntary standards of the American Boat and Yacht Council that have become the bible for most American boat builders. This may only be the nuisance of having every positive DC electrical wire aboard colored red and no wiring diagram to sort them out, or could be as serious as not having the AC electrical system properly grounded. Cost to upgrade these systems to ABYC standards can cost from several hundred to thousands of dollars.

More Marine Trader 34s have been built than any other vessel of this size and type and, for this reason, there is seldom any difficulty locating used boats offered for sale. Due to variations in age and extreme variation in condition, most anyone interested can find a boat to fit their budget. In researching this article I quickly found 14 boats offered for sale. They ranged from a 1974 model in Connecticut offered at $12,000 to a 1991 model on Lake Ontario offered at $96,000. If you’re inclined to new rather than used, a new boat can be ordered from Marine Trading International with a base price of about $140,000.

For support there is the Marine Trader Owners Association (MTOA) which is one of the most active owners associations there is. The association offers social functions, cruises, rendezvous, a newsletter and great support for other Marine Trader owners.

The Marine trader 34 Double Cabin is a very comfortable coastal cruiser that generally offers excellent value and an outstanding owners association/support group. As you will find if you search, there are some dirt cheap 34s on the market which only offer excellent value if you are a very handy person with enough patience, time and money to restore one of these problem-laden models. If not, look for a model that may be less of a bargain price but in considerably better condition. Be aware that a competent and diligent marine surveyor is likely going to make suggestions for maintenance or upgrading of electrical and fuel systems. It is quite possible your insurance company will insist on these recommended upgrades prior to insuring the vessel so it is wise to get estimates for any recommended work and plan for the cost of these upgrades when considering the purchase.

Jack Hornor, NA is the principal surveyor and senior designer for the Annapolis-based Marine Survey & Design Co.

Principal Dimensions & Specifications Measurements should be considered approximate and the manufacturer’s specifications may be relied upon. Bow & stern appendages are generally excluded.
Length Overall	33’ 6"
Maximum Beam	11’ 9"
Maximum Draft	3’ 6"
Displacement/Weight	17,000
Fuel Capacity	300 Gallons
Water Capacity	150 Gallons
Top Speed Range	10-14 Mph

Our Anchoring Platform Refurbishing

Storm season is only a few months away so consideration needs to be given for what projects take priority. One important one not yet completed is the anchoring system, so that has become number one on our list. Early on. the windlass was mounted on the anchor platform but that was as far as it went and no electrical has been connected nor the new anchor rode and anchor installed. As with other projects, this one needs to start from scratch and get the entire system done right the first time so we won't have to redo it or make any repairs any time in the near future. The platform that holds the windlass and the anchor roller is teak and in the same condition as the rest of the teak on the boat. Under that platform is another that is grated and gives us working space and a stowage area for lines and fenders and whatever. It all needs some serious reconditioning and we gave a lot of thought as to how and what we wanted to use to refinish the whole area. It is really not practical to redo the area with Cetol since it will get a lot of use and abuse raising and lowering the anchor not to mention cleaning the rode constantly with the wash down system. Once again we used what worked on our previous boat and decided that the area would benefit from a good painting. Our paint of choice is AwlGrip.




Careful attention also needs to be paid to the surrounding areas, so taping and covering with a good painters paper to protect it is important. After all of the hardware and the windlass was removed, all of the wood was thoroughly sanded with a 120 grit sand paper to get the old deck stain that had been used on it off and the surfaced smooth enough for the primer and paint. This did require removal of a lot of wood but was necessary to get the finish we wanted. In addition I felt the platform itself that would hold the windlass and anchor roller needed some reinforcing to beef it up and give everything a better support for the stresses that might be put on it under severe anchoring situations. A piece of teak plywood about 3/4 inch thick was cut to the same shape as the platform, except about 1/2 inch smaller all around. All of the wood surfaces were saturated with CPES (a penetrating epoxy sealer), including the new reinforcement piece, and allowed to dry for 48 hours. Next the reinforcement plywood was covered with a thickened West System Epoxy and screwed to the underside of the windlass platform. By gluing and screwing the two pieces together the strength was improved considerably. Once the epoxy had time to set, everything was sanded with 220 grit sand paper in preparation for the first coats of primer.

AwlGrip 545 primer is a two part primer with a thinner that can be applied by brush, roller, or spray, and can be used above or below the water line. Spraying is not an option so we would be applying this using a roller and foam brushes. The 545 is mixed equal parts, or 1 to 1, of the primer and its converter. A brushing thinner is added at about 1/4 part, to help with the flow when applied this way and increase the open time more than if spraying. After all three parts are combined the mixture needs to be stirred thoroughly and allowed to set for about 20 minutes to "cook" in the container before applying. The primer can be applied by brush or roller and if done by roller, an epoxy roller works best. Many folks roll the primer on and tip it with a brush or foam brush. I have developed a technique that allows the primer, and the paint too, to be rolled on without tipping. It requires that I continue to roll until the bubbles are gone and the primer begins to show a slight alligator texture. At that point I stop rolling and move on. It takes a bit of practice to find the point at which you quit rolling and move on without stopping too soon and wind up with bubbles or continue too long and cause the roller to lift too much primer off the surface. Any areas that the roller can't cover is reached with a foam brush, which I prefer over a brush. I usually carry a few foam brushes in my pocket since the epoxy in the primer and paint breaks down the foam after a while. So i just toss them when they reach that point and start with a fresh one. The surface gets three coats of primer allowing 24 hours between coats and sanding with 220 grit. The surface is blown off with air, wiped down with a tack cloth and a thorough wipe down with AwlPrep before each new coat. Once the final coat has had time to dry, attention is given to a more finished sanding to insure a good smooth finish to apply the topcoat paint.

For the final finish we decided on AwlGrip Sable Tan to keep from showing so much of the dirt and mud that would come up with the anchor rode. In addition the dark color would accent the adjoining teak and tan decks as well as speed the drying process in the sun. This will also require 3 coats with 24 hours and a good sanding with 220 grit between coats. The topcoat is mixed 2 parts topcoat to 1 part Cat3 converter and 0 to 1/4 part brushing thinner. This mixture also needs to sit and "cook" for about 20 minutes before applying. To put on the topcoat I also use a roller, but for this a different type is needed. The only roller I have been successful with is the white foam rollers that look kind of like a small hot dog. It is about 4 inches long and slides on a roller handle that is no more than a thin shaft. The technique to get a smooth finish is to keep the paint on the roller light, don't load up too much, and roll out as much as you can while continuously moving the roller until the bubbles stop and you get that alligator texture to the paint. You have to continue to move on the space since if you overlap as the AwlGrip begins to set, you will see the overlaps. Don't worry about the alligatoring since the AwlGrip will actually tighten up as it dries and the texture will go away. After each coat, the sanding process should make the surface smoother and smoother. The AwlGrip instructions call for a 300 grit sandpaper but I have had better luck with adhesion using the 220 grit. The finished product looks great and we have been told by professionals that it is almost impossible to tell it was not sprayed. After the last coat has had sufficient time to thoroughly dry, all of the bits and pieces should be bedded as needed and carefully reinstalled. The final installation will be the windlass, but that is for another posting.

Some Time On The Water

The temperatures here in South Carolina reached near 80 degrees this past weekend, only a few days after we had seen highs in the 40s and lows in the 20s, so it was just too nice of a day to sit in the slip and work on projects. Every once in a while we have to stop and tell ourselves to enjoy the boat and not work on it all of the time. As we have refitted each boat for cruising. we have worked hard and long getting equipment installed and repairs made so when the time came to head out on a cruise, we untied the docklines and were still doing projects. This time we will spend some time on sea trials and using the boat and new equipment we install before we start our next cruise.



The current here in the creek runs strong through the marina so entering and leaving the slip has to be timed for slack water as much as possible. It is tight getting in and out and since our experience with the boat is almost nil, we will tend to be more cautious until our skills and confidence levels are higher. We had a low slack water at around noon, so started our preparations for leaving the dock about 11:30 AM and backed out of the slip a little before noon. For some reason, it seems to take less effort and preparation to get this boat ready to shove off than it did the sailboat.

We had a moderate southwest breeze and absolutely crystal clear blue skies. A perfect spring day for a short trip on the Beaufort River and the local boating community was taking advantage of the great weather. We headed north toward Brickyard Creek, keeping an eye on the depth sounder since it was a low, low tide. We chose not to run Brickyard Creek because we knew there were some very shallow spots and did not feel like finding the bottom today. Along the way we found a local Police boat that for some reason was sitting high and dry way up in the marsh grass. No anchor out or any visible signs of the boat being secure and too far up in the grass to be re-floated at high tide. At least that is the way it appeared to us. Before we hit the shallow areas we turned around and headed for the downtown waterfront.

Beaufort has been one of our favorite stops along the ICW for many years. The main Marina is right in the heart of downtown and is a stopover for almost all cruisers along this stretch of the waterway. The town has that old southern charm and main street is lined with shops and restaurants. The old style hardware store that was a favorite of many has closed and is now art stores and variety shops. The streets out of town are lined with old southern mansions and trees with Spanish moss waving in the breeze. Unfortunately there are no grocery stores, hardware or parts supply stores in the downtown area, but you can find most else. As we cruised past the Downtown Marina, we found there were a few cruising boats tied up at the end of the T-dock and the usual group of suspects were at anchor just out of the channel. Many of these boats have been here for years but there is still plenty of room if one preferred to anchor instead of staying at the marina. A free dinghy dock is provided for the boats anchored out. If a tour is to your liking, the marina hosts horse drawn buggy tours of the town.


We got a big kick out of going back and forth under the Lady's Island Bridge without having to wait for an opening. With a 20 foot air draft, it will be great to not have to deal with many of the bridge opening schedules and some not so friendly bridge tenders. The boat was handling well and getting a much needed exercise of the engine. If there is one thing a diesel engine does not like, it is to sit around and not be used. We also needed the practice in this new to us boat before we head out into the sunset. The time flew by and we headed back to the slip before the currents from the incoming tide reached maximum. We got back into the slip without incident and our neighbors hardly knew we were back. All in all, one of those great days on the water.

Showers Coming Soon

No not rain showers. Although the boat is now 28 years old, apparently none of the previous owners ever showered aboard. There were no drains or plumbing to allow anyone to shower in either head and since we seldom use marinas when we are cruising, and quite often spend our time in remote areas, the ability to take a daily shower is important to us, and important to morale. We knew from the beginning that we would need to install a shower but since we are tied to the dock with showers close by, other more important items on the to-do list took precedent. But the project finally came to the top of the list and the time is now. One of the things we always stated as a requirement for a boat was a separate shower stall. Our last sailboat did not have one and the new trawler does not either. But this time we did have a good alternative. Beach House has two heads, one in the main stateroom and the other in the forward cabin. We seldom have guests aboard for long periods so having two heads is not important to us. The forward head is also small, having the head, a pull out sink and the beginnings of a shower pan. From the beginning, we planned to convert this smaller head into a dedicated shower.





It is important that the shower not leak. either into the bilge or into the woodwork in the surrounding cabin. The first order of business would be to re-fiberglass the shower pan using cloth and West System Epoxy. I chose West System because of past good results and the fact that epoxy will adhere to whatever was used on the floor to begin with. A thorough sanding, a coat of epoxy, then two layers of cloth gave the floor a little additional strength and waterproofed it well. Special attention went to the edges to be sure they were well saturated and the pan was sealed. Additional coats of epoxy went on before the preceding coats set up with a final coat which was thickened slightly and tinted using epoxy tint. This eliminated the need to paint, which usually does not last long in a shower, and also "fared" in the rough spots . The results were a solid, smooth, waterproof surface that would be easy to clean. Getting the pan to direct the water toward the drain is also important so you don't have water collecting in the corners. As the pan was finished, we installed a new drain that would be connected to the sump. Most of the drains we found at the marine supply were just too small and usually raised enough around the edges to create a problem. We found that an standard sink drain was larger, giving us a faster drain, and could be installed in a beveled hole to give us an almost completely flush installation. We also found a fitting that would screw on to it that had a hose barb the correct size we needed to connect an 1 1/8 inch hose to the sump. This would give us a complete drain without backing up while we were showering.

Which brought up the next issue, where to drain the shower water. Allowing it to drain into the bilge was never an option. It causes the bilge to smell worse that it normally does and allows all kinds of bacteria to grow down there, not to mention hair and stuff that will clog up the bilge pump. Since the shower pan is below the waterline. a direct discharge was also not an option. That pretty much leaves a separate shower sump. We could either build one or purchase one of the already made up units. We chose the latter and started researching which to buy. I am not a big fan of either Rule or Atwood products. Over the years I have seen too many failures in a very short period of time by either. But they are the dominating manufacturers in shower sumps so I began to consider building my own. One day at West Marine we looked at the West brand sumps and I inquired as to who makes the pumps. They are manufactured by Johnson Pumps which has a fairly good reputation, so we purchased one. I wanted it as close as possible to the shower drain and there is plenty of space in the forward bilge just below the shower. But this is not a flat area so a shelf needed to be fabricated to mount the sump. Using a piece of 1 by 12 oak and wrapping it in fiberglass, and of course epoxy, cutting it to fit and epoxying it to the hull in the bilge worked out to be perfect. The sump was attached to the shelf and the hose run from the drain to the sump. These boxes have several size hose barbs on them and it is just a matter of cutting off the sealed end of the barb you need.

Once the sump was secure and the drain attached, discharging the water from the sump overboard was the next step. This particular sump has a 3/4 inch attachment on the pump that sticks out the forward end of the sump box. Running the discharge hose from the box to a new thru-hull fitting was a simple task. We chose to put the thru-hull next to the discharge thru-hulls for the two bilge pumps on the starboard side of the boat.The thru-hull was installed in the boot stripe, just above the waterline so that it would not be running down the hull when it pumped the water overboard. A 3/4 inch bilge pump hose was run from the sump to the new thru-hull with a section looped higher than the water line even when heeled, to prevent backflow into the sump. This particular unit has a built in check valve at the pump to keep water from flowing back in, but this is just a good added safety measure. In a sailboat a vented loop would be needed to prevent backflow when the boat is heeled over. We always install our thru-hulls using 5200 for bedding and a marine grade plywood backing plate on the inside. In all of our years of boating we have never had a thru-hull we have installed fail or leak. At this point the project was moving along nicely.

Even though the pan was thoroughly sealed with epoxy, there are other areas that can leak into the adjacent woodwork. The inside of the head is covered in a Formica like material but the corners needed a bit more work. All corners, around the trim on the door and a few other places were thoroughly caulked. Taping off the edges to be caulked and using a curved plastic spatula to finish the corners, etc. make a clean professional finish. Just prior to caulking, all of the wood in the head that would be exposed to water received four coats of a gloss floor finish. This is much tougher than varnish, seals and waterproofs the wood better and stand up longer to constant exposure to soap and water.

All that is left is to connect the sump pump to the 12 volt DC system. It is a matter of running the proper size wire from the wiring that comes on the pump to the boats electrical panel. Using the proper size is important based on the voltage and amps the pump requires and the total distance the wire must run to the panel and then back to the pump. In calculating wire size, the round trip run must be used. Fortunately we have several spare breakers on the panel to use, and again sizing the breaker to the pump is important. To small a breaker will constantly trip and too large will not trip when you need it to and could be a fire hazard, especially on a pump. Once all of the wiring is run it needs to be secured well along its route to prevent chafing from constant movement. After all of the hoses are connected and the wiring run, the sump can be tested. Try to keep the discharge as close to the sump as possible as these pumps are usually small and don't push water for long distances well.

The final touches are connecting and running the shower head. We like the small hand held unit made by Scandivik as they can be used by holding down a lever when you need to rinse and then shutting off completely when you let go. This saves a lot of water and that is important to us when we are away at anchor for weeks at a time with no source for water close by. The shower hose is attached to a diverter on the faucet of the pullout sink. Since this sink will be used very little it will not be a problem. We have set up the shower curtains so they completely cover three sides so only one wall in the head will actually get wet. We will see how this works out since there are ways to be able to cover all four sides. There is always room for adjusting.

Oh, and did I mention we are working on the teak? We are finally at a point where there is less left undone then what we have finished. We love the Cetol, especially with so much wood to do, it makes the work go much faster. The forward windows at the lower helm were one of the larger sections to do and turned out quite well. Once the wood was refinished, the bronze hardware was cleaned up and reinstalled and looks great. New weather stripping was installed around the opening center window to keep the rain out. We found replacement wiper blades that fit perfectly and new cloth covers will be made soon. The window frames on the starboard side are done and really make the boat look good. All that is left on the lower deck is the window frames on the port side and the brows. Then we get to start the flybridge. So that is about it for now and we look forward to starting the work on the upper deck. Once the exterior is done the mechanical work can begin. The list is long.