A New Dinghy And A Big Change

Cruisers know that the dinghy is the same as the family car when we live ashore.It gets you to shore to buy groceries, visit with friends, and reach those beaches and snorkel spots that can't be reached with the mothership. Ask ten cruisers what the best dinghy is and you will get ten different answers. It will turn out to be one of those discussions like anchoring or cleaning the holding tank. The opinions will fly and the discussion will go on for a long time.

Since we began cruising almost 20 years ago, we wrestled with what type of dinghy would be best for us. After a couple of shake down cruises it became obvious. We first tried a very nice fiberglass skiff that was capable of sailing, with a mast and boom, rowed well and looked very elegant. But in a short time we grew to hate it. We could not carry more than two people and it would only hold a small outboard. It was so tippy getting in and out from the boat that we stopped using it. It was always banging against the hull and dinged everything.

We sold that dinghy and bought an inflatable. Our first inflatable had a soft floor with wooden inserts and standard size tubes. It was a big improvement, more stable, carried more weight and let us up the horse power of the outboard. After our first cruise to the Bahamas, we realized that although better, the design made for a wet ride across the harbor in even a small chop. In Georgetown we had to wear foul weather gear to ride across the harbor on bright sunny days.

It was obvious that we needed an inflatable, we just need a better one.  Our next purchase was a RIB from Caribe. It proved to be perfect, it was stable, carried even more weight, used a larger outboard that allowed us to get up on plain, reach our destinations much faster, and with the larger tubes and flared bow, it was a much drier ride.

That dinghy lasted us for ten years and we put a lot of miles on it. It was used and abused all over the Caribbean. It was sold along with our sailboat and the new trawler had an inflatable exactly like our first one only not in as good condition. This was not going to do so the hunt began for a new one. We carried the Caribe on davits on the stern of the sailboat the entire time we owned and cruised the boat. But we did not want to carry a dinghy on the back of the trawler this way, we prefer carrying it on its side on the swim platform. This is doable but not ideal with an inflatable. We had seen a pretty nifty fiberglass dinghy in our travels made by Livingston Boats in Tarboro, North Carolina. We had met a few cruisers with these boats and they really liked them. We started doing research on line and and asking questions of owners and the end results seemed to be that this was a good option for us. The twin hulls gave the stability we needed, the boat would move along quite well with a smaller outboard, which means carrying less weight, it is very well built and it looks really nice. On the website it is referred to as the 8 but is actually 7.5 feet.

There is also a mounting option for dinghy mounting brackets made by Weaver Davits that would make mounting on the swim platform easy and secure. It also makes launching and retrieval easy, which is very important to us. It took at the most a couple of hours to install the Weaver Davits and have the boat resting on the swim platform. We just love it when a plan comes together.

Holding Tanks and Refrigerators

What do these two systems have in common you ask? I suppose you could say one holds your food while the other holds the waste products of your food. Both are systems on a boat that get a lot of discussion and attention from most boat owners. Both are systems that can cause lots of headaches and demand lots of our attention.

The holding tank on Beach House was the original from the factory and in a very strange place. Both heads are in cabins down from the main salon. The holding tank was a fiberglass tank installed under the seat at the dinette. Other than the fact that this might not be the most desirable location if odors develop, it means that the sewage must be pumped up hill from the heads to the tank, another less than ideal situation. 

This diagram, taken from Don Casey's article on installing a head, is a good approximation of the installation we are currently working on. The old tank has been removed and the process of installing the new tank and replacing all of the connections, hoses and valves is nearing completion. We decided to install the tank in a space next to the head, under the starboard bunk in the aft cabin. This makes for very short hose runs from the head to the tank, the thru-hulls and pump-out fittings and gives us easy access to all of the parts. We decide to use the Trident Sanitation Hose based on a lot of research on the most odor resistant hose for this purpose. The Y-valve is a Whale valve based on years of experience with this valve on our previous boat, Sea Trek. We had the tank custom made by Triple M Plastics in Maine to our specifications as to size and placement of fittings. They did an excellent job, and the tank is well-built and sturdy. Time will tell as to how well-built it is, and of course, we will report back. The current plumbing does not have a anti-siphon valve in the discharge. and we will add this and a larger vent on the tank than is normally found on most holding tanks. We would have preferred a 1 inch vent. but space constrictions kept this down to 3/4 inch. The tail piece on the head was cracked on our repair during the trip north, and although it has not leaked, it will get replaced. Since our forward head is now used exclusively as a shower, the head is disabled, but we can easily recommission it and add a small holding tank under the v-berth if we find we can't live without it.

We also decided to replace the fridge while we are able, even though this breaks our number one rule, "if it ain't broke don't fix it." The old fridge was a 3-way, using 110 volt, 12 volt and propane. We have never used the propane feature although the previous own did and liked it. The 110 volt worked well, but meant we needed to be connected to shore power or run the portable generator while at anchor. In our almost 20 years of living aboard, we have used a strictly 12 volt refrigeration system and found this to be the system we prefer. The advantage is that the system works off of one power source no matter what we are doing. If at the dock, the battery charger keeps the batteries up and the fridge happy. If at anchor, it is still running off the 12 volt system and the batteries can be recharged from the engine at the very least. Our decision to go with the Vitrifrigo C115 12 volt model was based on a lot of research and owner feedback. The unit actually has the same cubic feet interior as the original fridge, but the overall size of the box is much smaller. That means the cabinet has to be modified, but it is a simple modification. One big improvement will be the additional insulation added to the inside of the cabinet in which the fridge is mounted. Another bonus is additional storage space we have gained that we added under the new unit. The unit has the newer Danfoss compressor, and it does not add all of the heat that the old unit generated in the main salon. The Danfoss compressor is quiet, efficient and can be serviced just about anywhere without specialized parts. The power consumption is considerably less than the old unit, and this was a major factor in our decision.

Those are two big projects that should be completed within the next week or so. It is slow going when we have to work full-time. It always amazes me how work can really interfere with our boat time, but what can you do? Once these two projects are completed, we might just take some time and get the boat out on the bay. A new dinghy is to be delivered soon, and we will post on that after it arrives. A big rainstorm last night reminded us that the opening ports need to be replaced, so it looks like we need to start preparations and get the materials ordered. It just seems to never end, but it is, after all, a boat.

12 Small Boat Projects That Made Large Improvements

Sometimes it is the little things that can make a big difference. Most of the posts here cover our projects and improvements and while many are serious undertakings, some are simple, quick and easy, but once finished, solve a problem or shortcoming we have encountered. With any new boat, there are always those little things that drive you crazy sometimes. Here are a few things we felt needed doing that paid off.

Changing the raw water pump impeller can be challenging at times when tied to the dock, but when under way and in certain conditions can be downright harrowing. We have had impeller failures in some strange and unplanned circumstances. The last thing one wants is to have to be in the engine room after running for hours, deal with the heat while the boat is rolling in a seaway, and have to take any more time that is necessary to change the impeller and get moving again. Been there, done that. I have serviced boats over the years that had the SpeedSeal raw water pump covers and always liked the ease in which the impeller could be changed. So this was a natural solution should we be in that situation again. It makes the change fast and easy with no tools necessary and no worries on replacing gaskets. We really like this option.

You may or may not consider this a small project, but after our first oil change on our Ford Lehman 120, we knew that our old practice of sucking the oil out through the dipstick tube was just not going to work for us. Once again, I relied on past experiences while servicing other boats, and we installed the X-change-R oil change system. It took some work, since first we had to get all of the oil out of the engine using the suction method. Then the drain plug in the bottom of the oil pan needs to be removed. A line is run from where the old plug is in the oil pan to the oil changer pump. Finally, power needs to be run from the breaker panel to the pump. It can take a day or a weekend to complete, but in the end, we found it has paid off big. The oil change now takes minutes, and the mess is minimal. The oil can be extracted from the engine and then the engine filled from the oil containers. No pouring and spilling. 

We are not big on air-conditioning when cruising, although with all of the 100 degree days here in the Chesapeake, it has been nice at the dock. While traveling or at anchor, we prefer to have the boat open as much as possible. We have been in places where the mosquitoes were large enough and aggressive enough to carry away a small animal. We have been in places where no matter what we did, the cabin was invaded at night with either mosquitoes or no-see-ums and we had to lather down with repellent. Needless to say, screens are a must, and we have had to get creative at times to have a screen in the  entry way so that we could get in and out faster than the bugs. Traveling through parts of the ICW, the dreaded green-headed flies that bite make screens an absolute must. We cover the entries, opening windows, ports and all opening hatches.

The side door on our trawler presented us with a slight problem. It slides aft to open, and there is a space between the door and the side of the cabin of a little more than an inch. Now this does not seem like much, but in fact, an inch can let in all manner of creatures. From creepy spiders, to bees and other flying insects, to small rodents, which we have never had and never want to have. We needed something to fill the space, but also allow the door to slide and not chafe against the side of the cabin and leave marks. The answer came to me standing in the weather stripping aisle in a hardware store. A common door sweep for the bottom of a door to keep out drafts was perfect. It is an aluminum strip with a piece of rubber inserted in it, and if properly placed along the back edge of the door, was just the ticket and it looked like it belonged there.

If you have the screens up, the natural next step is to have fans to circulate all of that air that can now get into the cabin. We have found that the 12 volt Caframo fans give the most bang for the buck, or air if you will. They move the most air for any 12 volt fan we have used, and at around $30.00, are a great deal. We have run them 24/7 when in the Caribbean, and they last for years. They are also very quiet, which is important when you need them at night and also need to sleep. The draw on the electrical system is only about 1/2 amp, and they have a two-speed setting. We prefer the model 757, but there are several others. These can be strategically placed around the boat to give you full circulation in every cabin. They also help circulate either cool or warm air from the heating or air-conditioning system.

On our cruise from the western Caribbean to Texas, we spent a lot of time anchored along the Gulf Coast ICW. We found that the tug and barge Captains traveled day and night, and often they passed us as we were anchored. We always display an anchor light, but often wondered what else we could do to make ourselves better seen. We had read on a few boating forums about boaters that had used the solar powered garden lights for anchor lights. While we do not feel comfortable relying on these as anchor lights, it occurred to us that they might help with getting us seen at night in addition to our anchor light. We placed four of the inexpensive lights we purchased from Home Depot at four corners on the boat, on the rail down low enough that they would be easily seen from the water. They recharge themselves during the day in the sun and will generally last from sunset to sun up. We are not sure how effective they have been, but in our cruise from Houston to the east coast, we were passed by a lot of commercial traffic at night, but none ran over us. We have had several put a spotlight on us, though, as they passed by. We simply attach them to the rail with a hose clamp, and if placed properly, will also give you some light when moving around on deck at night. 

And while we are considering lights for anchoring, our anchor light is also another important item we had to replace on this boat. The old Perko anchor light had corroded and pretty much fell apart. One item we had looked into quite a bit was a photocell to turn the anchor light on and off at dusk and dawn. Too often, we came back to the boat after dark when socializing lasted longer than expected and had no anchor light on or, if we knew we would be back late, had to turn the light on in the afternoon and have it use up precious power during the day. Doing some research brought us to the Web site for Bebi Electronics. They make an anchor light called the Owl which fit the bill perfectly. It has a built in photocell that is just what we wanted and as a matter of fact, once we installed it, we turned on the breaker for the light and forgot to use the breaker again to turn it on and off. Two other benefits we found was that when we turned the light on, our battery monitor showed almost no amps being used, and it proved to be considerably brighter than any of the traditional anchor lights we have used in the past. It is made of PVC and encased in epoxy, so there is little to corrode other than the connections we made to the wiring.

Safety when moving around the deck under way has always been important to us. We have had to deal with sails and rigging in gale conditions and anchors during late night storms. A trawler with a flybridge is a new experience for us, and running up and down from the flybridge was a concern. The steps are teak with stainless hand rails and we like our teak finished. If they are wet, they can be slippery, and a fall could be serious. A simple and logical solution is good old-fashioned vinyl or rubber stair treads. But boy are they hard to find anymore. We first tried to apply them with outdoor carpet tape which is sticky on both sides, but as soon as the sun warmed them up, they slid off the step. Our solution was to use aluminum strips like those used at the edge of carpet or vinyl flooring to secure the treads. This worked out better than we expected, as it made the steps even more slip proof. It also does not look too bad.

Another safety issue is moving around the interior of the boat at night. Our new boat has a cabin down forward and a cabin down aft. We wanted a way to light the steps without being too bright or obnoxious. Small LED lights mounted just at the doorways so they they can be turned on before going down the steps were a good addition. These lights are not terribly bright, and they draw very little amps. So if we want just a little light, they do double duty. They also make excellent lights for inside hanging and storage lockers where you might need to find items at night, or even during the day.

Another project that might not be considered small is adding stereo speakers. It all depends on the complexity of running the wires. For us, this was fairly easy, and the Clarion Stereo we installed allowed us some options. It has a six disc CD changer and audio inputs that allow us to run our TV sound through it. With the four speakers mounted in each corner of the main salon and the stereo set to Aux, we have surround sound that sounds really good and we don't have to power a 110 audio system or find a place to mount all of that equipment. We also have a pair of speakers run to the flybridge so we have to be careful to turn them off or all of our neighbors will know what we are watching on the TV.

Previously, we have written about installing the vents in various places throughout the boat. This has proven to be a very good modification. It has really dried out the inner parts of the boat that normally stay damp and can generate mold and mildew if left as is. The odors that these dark and damp places generate are no longer a problem, and the items that are stowed away are less likely to rust, corrode and just get nasty. We are very pleased that we made this decision.

Finally, it is amazing how a small item like door latches can make a big improvement. We learned long ago that the standard latches most builders put on a boat will not keep the contents in the lockers once the boat gets rolling or if you find yourself in some heavy seas. One particular cruise off the coast of South Carolina found the entire contents of most of the cabinets in our main salon on the cabin sole. These cabinets also had finger holes that needed a single finger inserted to open the locker. This begged for a broken finger in a seaway. That is when we discovered that a simple hook type latch takes minutes to install throughout the entire boat and kept all of the doors securely closed no matter what the motion of the boat is.

That is about it for now. We certainly hope we have offered a few ideas that might help on board your boat and make life aboard a little more pleasant. We certainly would like to hear any ideas you might have and I am certain others would also. Just click on the comments following this post and leave or read what others have to add. Happy Boating!