Funky Nassau

There are a few places to anchor in Nassau Harbor. The quality of the anchorages varies considerably, depending on your precise location. The two most popular are the west anchorage near the BASRA docks and the Green Parrot, a popular meeting place for boaters, and the east end of the harbor just past the marinas. This anchorage is a sand bar that divides the channel through the harbor. The inner channel runs along the marina docks and the outer channel is the main transit channel and favors Paradise Island. All of the anchorages and all of the marina slips, with the exception of Hurricane Hole and Atlantis, are extremely rolly. There is no speed limit on the boats and ships transiting the harbor and most run full speed and throw up large wakes which roll the boats at anchor from side to side and keep the boats in the marina slips bouncing all around. It begins around sunrise and goes on well into the night. Many might find this very uncomfortable, and is one of the reasons we usually bypass Nassau. But since it has been a while, we stopped for a few days.

Bay Street is the main road that runs along the harbor. There you will find the cruise ship terminals, restaurants, shops and supplies. There are two good boating supply stores and a number of service companies ranging from engine repair to outboard motor sales and service. Nassau also has one of the rare haul-out yards in the Bahamas complete with a travel lift and full service facilities. We found the city interesting and noted the major changes and development that have taken place since the last time we were here, especially on Paradise Island, where the entire island has now been developed with hotels, casino, condos and restaurants. The Atlantis complex is huge, and to visit there is a $30.00 per person charge just to go in and look around. We found the prices here for most things are more expensive than we have encountered so far.

Continuing east past all of the marinas takes you into the banking district with large, well-kept buildings and perfectly manicured grounds. The homes in this area are much better kept and all are privately gated. If you keep walking you come to Montagu Beach and Fort Montagu. The fort is very small and if you want to go inside there is a charge. The beach is nice with white sand and a breakwater in several locations to protect the beach from erosion. We didn't see anyone using the beach, but maybe that was because the water is still pretty cold. We saw a man cleaning fish and since we were looking for fresh fish, asked him if he had any for sale. He said no, but pointed us to a group of red covered tents not too far away and said we could get all the fresh fish we wanted there.

We knew we hit the jackpot when we got to the local fish market and found table after table covered with fresh fish, conch and lobster. What wasn't on the tables could be found in coolers sitting all along the seawall, chock-full of fish of just about every species and size, from small to humongous. We went from table to table, asking prices and negotiating for the best deal. We settled on grouper from a nice lady who gave us a good price. This seems to be where the locals come to buy there fresh seafood. We walked away happy and with fresh grouper for dinner.

The fish market near Montagu Beach is totally unlike the market at Potters Cay, under the bridge to Paradise Island. These are mostly small food stalls and restaurants, and the stalls that do sell seafood sell only conch. Even the commercial boats tied up to the government dock only had conch for sale. When the cruise ships are in, Potters Cay is a favorite place for the passengers to visit. We assumed that is why they don't sell much fresh seafood, just prepared food. It is an interesting place to visit and has been part of Nassau Harbor for many, many years.

A good way to really see Nassau and New Providence is to hire a car and driver. These are taxis that are for hire and for a set price will drive you around and show you the island. The prices do vary so you have to ask around and find out which will be in your price range. They can run from $120 up to $500.00 for a couple of hours, but they will take up to 10 people in a van. Be sure and find out in advance if you will get a "tour" or just a drive around the island. Most drivers will take you to the different forts, the Queen's Staircase (pictured left) and many of the other shops and points of interest. The drivers we ran into were all very knowledgeable about the island's history.

And of course, there is always lunch at many of the restaurants overlooking the harbor. We choose The Poop Deck at Nassau Yacht Haven. The food was okay and reasonably priced by Nassau standards. Each Thursday, boaters in the harbor meet at the Green Parrot for lunch and to discuss all things boating. We didn't do lunch there because we looked at the menu and found it rather expensive ($17 for a fish sandwich). Just about any type of dining can be found in Nassau - from steak to Chinese to, of course, fresh seafood.

We were very excited to arrive just when a new supermarket was having their grand opening. Solomon's Fresh Market is located in the shopping center across the street from the Nassau Harbor Club Marina. This is a true supermarket and the best surprise was that the prices for most items were equal to what we paid for groceries in the States. Walking in the front door is like walking into a Publix or Trader Joes. There is a large section for fresh fruits and vegetables, a wide selection of meat and seafood and mostly organic products in the shelves. The store also has a deli that sells sliced meats and a bakery that makes fresh bread and other baked goods. You can buy sandwiches and salads and eat at the booths set up in the market. It was pretty incredible to find this here, and we took advantage to restock some of our supplies before heading down the Exuma chain. There is a pharmacy, Dairy Queen, Domino's Pizza, Radio Shack and several other shops in the center. The local officials were making a celebration of it with speeches and a steel drum band set up in the parking lot.


If all goes well, we should be on our way very shortly. During our time here we took advantage of being in the harbor to do an oil change and some minor maintenance. The next stop is the northern Exumas. We're not sure what the internet service will be like so the postings may not be as often. When we have a good connection, we'll bring you up to date.

Sail Magazine's Review Of Our Anchorage Book

Sail Magazine has just published a review of our current edition of The Great Book Of Anchorages, Norfolk to Key West. Have a look at what they have to say here. Susan is working hard on the Bahamas edition and we plan to have it ready for boaters heading to the Bahamas for the next upcoming season. Stand by for some exciting news regarding the Bahamas book. In the meantime, you can visit our website here and get your copy of the current book here.

We've Arrived in Nassau Bahamas

We wanted to leave Great Harbor Cay as soon as the sun came up and had let the marina know of our plans so someone would be there early. Not only were they not there early, they weren't there on time either. Since our electric meter had to be read to settle our bill, we couldn't pay the night before. I had to call one of the marina staff at home to get them to come over and check us out. Finally it was all done and we left about an hour behind schedule. The wind forecast was for light and variable winds all the way to Nassau. As we headed north to the Stirrup Cays so we could go east then south, the swells working in off Northwest Providence Channel got a little larger. As we approached the top, the wind picked up some too and it got quite choppy and rolly. The day was also gray and overcast, and we hoped it wasn't going to be like this the entire day.

We could see a cruise ship anchored off Little Stirrup Cay already. They probably had been there all night. The islands, Great and Little Stirrup Cays, are owned by the cruise lines and they have them all set up for their passengers to enjoy time on the beach. There was surprisingly a lot of traffic as we approached the ship anchoring area. There were a couple of pleasure boats, including ourselves, a large schooner at anchor and several of the ferries that take the passengers from the ships to shore, milling around. As we approached, another cruise ship was coming in to anchor. The cruise ship hailed the schooner that was anchored to let them know he was in their spot. The schooner quickly pulled up anchor and moved. There's no arguing with something that big. As we rounded the northern tip of the Berry Islands and moved into deeper water, the seas went flat and the sun came out.

The distance from Great Harbor to the Nassau Harbor entrance is 65 nautical miles. For the next 9+ hours we had a glorious day and a perfect trawler crossing. Once we were off soundings in the very deep Northeast Providence Channel, the seas were completely flat with the exception of long gentle ocean swells. The winds were light to non-existent during most of the transit and we just let the autopilot do the steering while we read, relaxed and listened to Margaritaville on the satellite radio. Life is good sometimes. From Little Harbor Cay in the Berry Islands, Nassau is a straight course to the southeast with nothing but deep blue water and no obstructions other than the occasional freighter or pleasure boat. If it wasn't such a beautiful day, some might consider it boring. And that's just the way we like it.

The entrance to Nassau Harbor is straightforward and easy. We arrived at the outer sea buoy at 4:20 PM, very pleased with our transit time. There are two stone breakwaters - one to starboard that protects the commercial ship port, and the other to port that extends out from the western tip of Paradise Island and the Nassau lighthouse. As we approached, a small freighter was exiting the harbor and a very large, dark-blue hulled yacht was at anchor just outside the harbor. It is necessary to call Nassau Harbor Control on VHF Channel 16 and request permission to enter the harbor. They will request the boat name, last port of call and your destination in the harbor. We would be heading to Nassau Harbor Club to sit out the upcoming weather and enjoy what Nassau has to offer.

Once in the harbor you are quickly snapped back to reality. The very busy comings and goings of tour boats, ferries, pleasure craft, and all manner of vessels, most traveling at full speed, is almost a shock to the system. The first thing that sticks out is the cruise ship terminal, and there were three ships docked on the day we arrived. We were surprised to see one of the ships painted with a bright red smile on the bow. Given all the bad press from the cruise lines lately, it was even more comical. We would need to transit the bustling harbor almost to the east end. After crossing under the two high-rise bridges to Paradise Island, we opted to lake a sharp right after the dock on Potters Cay and run inside a sandbar that divides the harbor on the east end. This did cut down on some of the wakes and got us out of the heavy traffic.

At 5:00 PM we secured Beach House in her slip at Nassau Harbor Club. It was a long day but we felt pretty good. It has been many, many years since we were in Nassau last. In previous years, we have chosen to bypass it for more isolated anchorages and Cays. It was a good place to hole up for the weather and wind direction that would be coming in a few days. On our last cruise here we waited 10 days for weather before we could head south to the Exumas. Let's hope it won't be as long this time. For the next few days, we plan to take in the sights and do some of the touristy things. The marina here is one of the less expensive ones in the harbor and it has a good reputation. The location is also great for re-provisioning and getting whatever supplies we might need before heading off to more remote anchorages.

We didn't vanish during part of the crossing. Our Argus system only works when the depth sounder is on soundings. Once we cross into deeper water, it will not record until we are back on soundings.

Great Harbor and the Berry Islands, Bahamas

Our late arrival meant an overnight anchorage off Cistern Cay, just north of the channel entrance into the inner harbor near Great Harbor Cay Marina and Bullocks Harbor. The night was not too bad, but the winds shifted to the south and the wavelets bounced off the hull, making the annoying "slap, slap" sound that wakes you up every 30 minutes. It seemed that a few rogue waves would work their way in about every 20 minutes. Early the following morning, after we'd listened to the latest weather reports on the HF radio, we motored into the narrow channel that has been virtually cut through rock, into the piece and tranquility of this protected harbor. The Wavey Line charts showed good depths, but other chart sources showed the bottom as grass with poor holding. We found that our Manson Supreme set right away in the grass and held. We didn't expect any bad weather.

The inner basin is wide, but certain areas are very shallow, so we nosed in slowly to find a good spot. This is the entrance channel to Great Harbor Cay Marina, and we didn't want to be in the channel. That turned out to be a mistake later on. What a major difference from the lumpy conditions outside to the calm and tranquility we experienced in the basin. Our friends anchored directly behind us and launched their dinghy. After coffee and breakfast it was decided that the settlement needed some investigation. The down side was that it was Sunday so everything was going to be closed. Getting to the settlement of Bullocks Harbor from our anchorage meant going back out the cut and skirting the shoreline until we reached the concrete wall of the Government Dock. Dinghies can be tied up inside a small basin at the far end of the dock out of the way of any supply boats that might arrive. The wall is pretty rough, and rusty nails protrude from the concrete. It's not friendly to inflatables and probably not a good idea in rougher weather. As we expected, everything was closed for the day. The settlement has several small restaurants, a few small grocery stores and a hardware store that carries electrical and building supplies. It's a small but friendly town. More than a few times someone would stop to ask us if we needed a ride.

The rest of the day was spent just resting and relaxing. Everyone had a good night's sleep in the calm and quiet of the harbor. After the long day crossing the Banks everyone needed the rest. But the tranquility ended rather abruptly. At about 8:00 AM the next morning, a boat pulled along side us and called out to get our attention. We were told that we were anchored in the channel, which we were not, and if we did not move in one hour, the "authorities" would be coming out. To say we were surprised is an understatement. Even our insistence that we were not in the channel didn't seem to dissuade them. There wasn't much we could do so moving was a must. This is their country, but we have never experienced this anywhere in the Bahamas in the past. But not wanting to create a problem we didn't argue the point. Bad weather was approaching so we didn't have much of a choice but to go into the marina or go out to a more exposed anchorage. We wondered if that might have been the purpose of the exercise to begin with - to get us into the marina. We would have to examine the issue later. By this time, there were three of us at anchor. Two of us moved in to the marina and the third boat just left the harbor.

The marina was almost empty with the exception of a couple of sportfishing boats and some local vessels for tours and parasailing. The docks are all fixed concrete and surrounded by condos with parking for small boats under the condos. It is very well protected from pretty much any kind of weather. The marina has restroom with showers, electric and water at the dock and free wifi. Dockage was $1.50 per foot and electricity is metered at .70 per KW hour. Water is metered at .50 per gallon but the RO system was not working so we didn't use any. There is water at the dock for washing the boat, etc., but it's brackish and very salty. Usually the marina charges $10.00 for the washdown water, but because the RO system was not working, they didn't charge us for any water. We had a discussion with the marina manager about the anchoring situation and he contacted the developer in the U.S. that actually owns the basin in which we were anchored. After some further discussion and phone calls, the marina manager apologized for the situation and explained that the developer didn't mind if anyone anchors in the inner harbor as long as there were no complaints of boats blocking the channel. They don't want to seem unfriendly toward boaters, even if they don't use the marina.

The next couple of days were spent roaming around and exploring all that the Berrys have to offer. The settlement at Bullocks Harbor is the only town in the Berrys. The marina offers a very expensive restaurant called the Pool Bar, next to the pool and there was the Beach Club out near the airport that we just had to check out. On the day we were there they had very few items on the menu because a big celebration a couple of days earlier cleaned them out of everything but hamburgers and club sandwiches. It was worth it though because the view was spectacular and the white sand beach went on forever. The sand is so white the locals call it "Sugar Beach."

We have often wondered why so many cruisers bypass this area and go down to Chub Cay for a quick stop before moving on. This is pristine cruising grounds with anchorages that rival any tropical islands anywhere on the planet. There are dozens and dozens of anchorages, each more spectacular than the previous one. Protection from weather coming from almost any direction can be found amongst the Cays, and the beautiful beaches are some of the best the Bahamas have to offer. Because they have been bypassed, there is always lots of room and many of these anchorages can be enjoyed in solitude. We could have spent weeks here but had to press on. The Exumas were calling.

Crossing The Great Bahama Bank In A Trawler

After 3 lonnnggg weeks in Bimini, the relentless winds were finally letting up for a couple of days. Anyone that owns a trawler in our size range understands the need for the right sea conditions to make a long open-water passage. Even smaller seas can become very uncomfortable from the wrong direction. Our destination was the Berry Islands and from our marina to Great Harbor would be about a 12-hour day. Needless to say that as the first light of day broke over the eastern horizon, we had the dock lines off and were underway. As luck would have it, the tides and currents were slack as we motored out of the harbor and back into the edge of the Gulf Stream. Winds were less than 5 knots so other than some small swells, it was flat. Perfect trawler weather. Thanks for the photo and the great Photoshop work Larry.

It was a short hours' run from the Bimini harbor entrance buoys to the light at North Rock, just north of North Bimini. The light is just a post on a flat rock and seldom is lit. But it must be rounded to stay in deeper waters and make the turn east across the Banks. We were traveling with another trawler, Our Time with Brooks and Sara on board. They, too, were heading for the Berrys. Another trawler had left just a little before we did and were just ahead of us. Our neighbors on a sailboat were coming out behind us and they were planning to head for the Northwest Channel Light and then on to Nassau.

We could not have placed an order for more perfect weather to cross the Great Bahama Banks from Bimini to the Berry Islands. Winds were directly on our nose and so were the wind waves. But the winds averaged 5 to 8 knots all day and the seas were about 1 foot, so it was a comfortable trip. That was probably a really good thing, not only because it was comfortable and we could make good time, but Susan was not feeling well and it allowed her to rest on the trip. We had left the dock at about 7:15 AM and knew we would be racing the clock to get in and anchored before dark. Sunset would be at 7:21 PM.

We reached the outer waypoint near Great Harbor at 7:00 PM and knew we had at best 45 more minutes of daylight. It was approximately 5 more miles to the harbor entrance and we knew that was just a little too late. The harbor entrance is very narrow and not something we wanted to try in the dark. Our decision was to get as close to the Cay as possible and get the anchor down while we could still see the bottom and there was still some light. We made the approach toward the inner waypoint at the harbor entrance, and as the sun began setting behind us, we turned toward Cistern Cay. There are no obstacles or hazards to worry about and we could have gotten almost up to the beach if we wanted. With the light fading fast, we found a light sandy spot in the heavy grass bottom and dropped the anchor. All we needed was for it to set without any problems. The chart guides indicated that the holding here was poor in grass. Once again, luck was on our side and our Manson Supreme dug in the first time and took hold. It was 7:30 pm and the last light was disappearing in the west. Our Time had dropped in off our port side and they, too, were securely anchored. It was indeed a long day, but we were absolutely delighted to be on our way again. The next day would be spent exploring the settlement at Bullocks Harbor.

Hangin' In Bimini

Let's play a little "where's Waldo" err... where's Beach House? This weather pattern is driving us crazy and keeping us at the dock in Bimini. Last night it blew pretty much all night with gusts to at least 30 or more. Another one-day window will open up tomorrow but we want more than 12 hours so we will probably pass on this one, too. In the meantime, we are doing a lot of exploration of both North and South Bimini. We are working on the Bahamas edition of The Great Book Of Anchorages but we also find time to have some fun. The area has some interesting history and very friendly locals so what's not to enjoy?

We have walked the main road from Alice Town through Bailey Town to Porgy's Bay and the Bimini Bay Resort at the northern end of the harbor. Along the way we have found several small grocery stores, some carrying the same staples as others and some carrying different goods. If one store doesn't have what you need, try another. Sooner or later you will find everything. In Alice Town, Robert's Grocery seems to carry the best selection we have found so far. It is located just next to the coin laundry, the only one in town. There is a larger store, Porgy Bay mini-mart in Bailey Town, as well as Brown's Hardware Store, but we haven't visited them yet. In Alice Town, there are 2 golf cart rental businesses and a small hardware store, Bimini General Store, next to Weech's Marina. The general store is piled with marine items, oil, filters and a variety of other products. And we do mean piled - you have to pick through stacks and piles of things to find what your looking for buried in them. The owner appears to be an American and she seems to know what is in her inventory, just not always exactly where it is.

The supply boat comes in every Thursday. You have to time your visits to the local stores to get there just as the fresh supplies are unpacked and on the shelves. Come too soon and nothing is there yet. The store will seem empty. Come too late and you miss out on the fresh fruits and vegetables as the good stuff goes quickly. There are no Publix or U.S. style supermarkets here. That's all part of the Bahamas experience. These supply boats also bring shipments and parts if you have something shipped to you here. It first goes to Nassau to clear Customs and then must be loaded on the supply boats. There are flights from Ft. Lauderdale and Miami that will bring parts to Bimini and other islands, and those clear through the local Customs office. Replacement and repair parts are not subject to duty, but they MUST be marked and shipped properly to avoid the duty charges, which means having a copy of your cruising permit attached to them that you faxed/scanned to your shipper prior to shipping.

Getting people and goods from the U.S. to Bimini has been done by boat and air for decades. One of the more fascinating forms of transportation is the seaplane from Tropic Ocean that lands and takes off 3 times a day right down the harbor channel. This is why boats are seriously discouraged from anchoring in or very near the channel. A one-way ticket is $180.00 and the plane can be chartered for trips to the mainland or other places in the Bahamas. They take almost the entire length of the harbor to take off.

Getting from North Bimini to South Bimini can only be done by boat. There are a couple of marinas on South Bimini where you can stay on your boat or you can ride the small ferries that travel back and forth many times a day. The fee is $2.00 per person each way and the ride takes all of 5 minutes at the most. The ferry drops you off at a commercial dock and you can walk a short way down the road and rent a golf cart for $20.00 for the first hour and $10.00 for each additional hour. Since we were with another couple, we split the cost so it wasn't too expensive. It was a cold and windy day but one we completely enjoyed. We visited the Bimini Sands Resort and Marina which is a very nice place with all amenities, but has a shallow bar (about 6 feet) at the narrow entrance. Deeper draft boats would have to play the tides to get in and out. Additionally, the entrance faces the channel entrance for Bimini so would be unusable in adverse conditions, such as strong westerly winds. Next we tried to visit the Shark Labratory and Research Station. Unfortunately, it was Sunday and the Lab was closed. They do tours of the local waters and lemon shark pens, preferably at low tide. They can be contacted on VHF Channel 88A to arrange a tour.

Between the town dock and the Marina Resort is a nature trail that meanders through a native hammock with lots of local flora and fauna. All along the trails are stops with descriptive information on the trees, plants and animals indigenous to the Bimini's. We found the walk both fascinating and educational. The path crosses over to the ocean, circles around and returns to the entrance at the main road. On a hill overlooking the Atlantic above the beach are the ruins of an old home built by a former Olympic athlete that came to live and work in Bimini. He fell slave to the drink, his wife divorced him and he died way too soon. A story we've heard before.

At the south end of South Bimini is The Bimini Beach Club. The marina is in serious disrepair and the pool was roped off, but the restaurant was open so we had lunch. We found the restaurant very nice with several TV sets mounted on the wall showing sports games, good food, a bar and sand floors. Our lunch was very enjoyable, even with the limited menu, and the view was terrific. There was one other couple there beside us. On the road to the marina are many very nice homes. We suspect that the locals probably come to the restaurant often.

While walking the beach, we had a first hand look at why we have been sitting in the marina for over a week. A large catamaran was leaving the harbor, struggling with seas and wind even as he made his way south, which was downwind with the seas behind him. The forecast was for conditions to worsen and we wondered what could be so important that someone needed to go out in those conditions. Another boat was heading north bashing into the waves and making little headway. It did eventually get into Bimini harbor and tied up at our marina.

Look closely at this photo and tell me honestly if you see it working yet. Our last two stops of the day were to visit the local airport where travelers fly back and forth to the mainland on small air carriers, then a stop to the "Fountain Of Youth" that we all know Ponce De Leon searched for so hard throughout the Caribbean. One look down the well and we decided to forgo a drink from the murky water. But it was fun and the time spent visiting this less traveled side of the Biminis is well worth it.

It was time to call it a day and turn in our golf cart. We owe a thanks to Doyle Saunders of D.L.P.S. Golf cart rentals for taking time from his Sunday to rent us a cart. Doyle can be contacted at 242-473-0216 to arrange a rental for the day or for a week. Once we turned in the cart, he gave us a ride down to the ferry dock. We were tired and cold, yes cold, but in a good way and so looked forward to getting back to the boat and having a hot dinner. At the same time we were crossing back to North Bimini, a seaplane was landing in the channel and our driver found himself playing chicken with the plane. We never came close but it was an exciting way to finish the day. The boat driver and pilot waved to each other as they finally safely passed each other. Now if we can just get that weather window.