Treasure Cay Abacos

Treasure Cay in the Abacos is indeed a treasure. UNLESS you don't enjoy walking on one of the top 10 beaches in the world (previously chosen by National Geographic), or you don't find security in a great harbor that offers good holding and 360-degree protection, or you aren't looking for one of the least expensive and relaxing locations in the Bahamas. Yes, I did say least expensive because we have found Treasure Cay to be the best deal in our Bahamas trip so far, and for several good reasons.

The entrance to Treasure Cay is well-marked and deep, but care needs to be taken to stay in the channel when entering. The first thing we noticed is the easy-to-reach fuel dock right on the wall after entering the channel. This is not only a fuel dock for boats, but a service station for cars on the island. Once inside this man-made harbor, there is ample anchoring room and deep water throughout the harbor. Many very nice homes and condos ring the perimeter, and if you continue farther inside, there is a very nice marina. The guides all refer to moorings in the harbor, but there is only one and it is occupied by a semi-permanent resident. We dropped the hook in 7 feet and it set immediately. There were already several boats of all sizes and configurations spread out around the anchorage. A sign along the wall as you come in instructs everyone to register with the marina.

Once we were confident that the anchor was set and all was well, the dinghy was splashed and we headed into the marina. We stopped in at the office to notify them that we were anchored and would be in the harbor for a couple of days. Unlike many stops in the Bahamas, they were not concerned with collecting any money and told us there was a $10.00 per day fee, even for anchoring, but for that $10.00 per day, we would have complete use of the marina facilities. That included landing the dinghy, use of the heads and showers and the marina pool, which is very nice. The marina provides trash receptacles on the docks for trash and boaters can fill their water tank or jugs at the dock with no extra charge. We almost asked if they we were hearing correctly, but decided not to press the issue. The marina also offers free Wifi, a rarity in the Bahamas, and we were given the password for the Wifi without ever handing over a dime. The Dockmaster said we should settle up whenever we were ready to leave, and did not ask for any information about our boat. This was indeed a rare and pleasant experience.

We found everyone to be friendly and helpful. There is a good restaurant across the street from the marina that is open for lunch and dinner, and the restaurant at the marina is open for breakfast and dinner. At the marina pool, there is a bar that doesn't open until 5:00 pm, but they usually have ESPN or news on the outside TVs during the day. A block down the street is a small shopping center with a dive shop, golf cart rentals, a mini-mart, BTC office, a canvas shop and a larger, well-stocked grocery store. If golf is your thing, there is a 5-star course nearby. And then there's the beach...and oh what a beach. It is over 3 miles of the most incredible colors of sand and water we have seen for a very long time. Near Coco Beach Bar, there are lounge chairs under umbrellas or thatched roofs for use of marina or the beach bar customers. Our lunch at the beach bar was pretty good. Needless to say, we spent a lot of hours just walking the beach and soaking up the scenery and sun. We highly recommend the Treasure Cay anchorage as a must-do for anyone cruising the Abacos.

As an aside, we had something unusual happen as we entered the harbor. We heard an announcement on the VHF about a happy hour, but since we were negotiating a new harbor entrance, we didn't pay too much attention. Many restaurants in the Bahamas announce specials and advertise over the VHF all day, so we didn't think much of it. After we were anchored and had splashed the dinghy, we stopped by another boat we knew from Marathon and Marsh Harbor. They informed us that it wasn't a restaurant, but another boat in the harbor that was inviting everyone over to their boat that evening for drinks and hors d'oeuvres. Several boaters showed up that evening and we made new acquaintances. These are the special moments that we remember most about our cruising adventures - the kindness and generosity of strangers who become friends.

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Hope Town To Man O' War

Beach House and crew had a fabulous time at Hope Town. We made new friends and walked a lot of miles up and down the streets as well as a really long walk on the beaches. It is good to know that a tradition we saw 20 years ago when we first visited here is still being carried on - the tribute to beach junk. It was here we first saw artistic monuments to the trash found along the beaches. But all good things must come to an end and we had other places we wanted to see. After our normal morning weather checks, which actually take us a couple of hours, we paid our bill, topped off the water tanks and stowed everything on the boat for the very long, one-hour trip over to Man O' War. Several other boats were heading out of the harbor at the same time we were, including the local ferry which couldn't wait to get past us and throttled up just off our stern. They have places to be and don't care much about us pleasure boaters.

The entrance into the two harbors at Man O' War is very narrow and shallow, but the shallow areas are easy to spot in good light. Our first inclination was to turn right once inside and try to find a spot to anchor in Eastern Harbour. We idled around for a while, but quickly found that the harbor was full of moorings, and where the mooring didn't show, the large concrete blocks were still on the bottom just waiting to foul an anchor. A nice gentleman dinghied up to us and offered us one of his moorings, but a large steel sailboat had anchor so near it that we could not fit in between the mooring ball and the anchored boats. After motoring around a bit and determining that there was indeed no place to safely anchor, we headed into the Northern Harbor just off the settlement. This, too, was filled with moorings, so we reluctantly gave up and picked up a mooring ball. The first mooring we picked up didn't give us a lot of comfort since it put us very close to another boat, so we moved to another nearby that offered more swinging room. We really love the short distances between new locations.

Man O' war is probably most famous for the Albury family boat-building business. The island was originally settled by British Loyalists from the Colonies and they were talented ship builders. That tradition remains today, but instead of wood ships, the Albury family builds some very fine fiberglass runabouts. Their manufacturing facilities are open to public viewing when a boat is under construction. Man O' War is another very picturesque settlement with well cared for homes and streets lined with all types of flora and fauna. There are some unique shops in town and one in particular is the Sail Shop that makes all sorts of bags and gifts from marine canvas material. There is only one restaurant in town, The Dock and Dine, 2 grocery stores, Joe's Studio (a very nice gift shop), a bakery and, of course, an ice cream store just outside the marina entrance, Island Treats. Albury Brothers and Edwin's Boatyard offer marine services and there is a 60-ton railway for boats that need to be hauled. There are two banks here, one open on Thursday and the other open on Friday. You can walk the entire town in about an hour and cross over the cay to the Atlantic side to visit the beach. On the Atlantic side is a very extensive reef system that runs the entire length of the cay. There are cuts at the north and south ends, but the south cut is recommended only with local knowledge or a guide.

We have been absolutely amazed at the number of folks that drop by the boat to say hello and mention that they read this blog. It's always great for Susan and I to meet our readers in person, and it feels good to know the blog is appreciated. Even better, it opens up opportunities for us to meet new boaters and make new friends. We had 3 dinghies stop by in the at Man O' War, several at Marsh Harbour and more in Hope Town. We also met lots of great folks that have never seen our blog. That's the best thing about cruising on a boat, no matter where we go - meeting people.


Our next port of call will be Treasure Cay. We enjoyed Man O' War, but it's a small settlement with not a lot to do except rest and relax, and that isn't all that bad. It was well worth the visit and we recommend anyone coming this way to stop for a while. With our schedule and the clock ticking, we want to cover as much of the Abacos as we can without rushing through and missing some great spots.

Cruising the Abacos, Marsh Harbour to Hope Town

Beach House and crew spent a week in Marsh Harbour enjoying the company of fellow cruisers and, of course, having repairs done. If things are going to break, this is the place to have it happen. Our windlass quit on us at Tilloo Cay and the thought of hauling the anchor and chain up by hand for the rest of the trip until we arrived back in Florida was not very appealing. Based on recommendations from other boaters, we took the windlass to a small repair shop called simply TSE that is across the street from Conch Inn and Marina. The owner Bryan did a great job for us and was able to repair the windlass instead of having to order parts and have them shipped in from the U.S. We also had him do some work on our spare alternator that was needed in case the current one fails, as it did on us once before. Bryan does work on electrical motors, starters, alternators, chargers, inverters, solar panels and a lot more. He can be reach by phone at 242-458-5418.

While we waited for the repairs, we tried the local cuisine at a quaint bar and restaurant called Conchy Joe's. The food was good and the price was right. There were 8 in our group and everyone enjoyed the evening. On Friday and Saturday nights, Conchy Joe's has a DJ and the music resonates across the entire harbor until late in the evening so anchoring close to them is not a good idea. We also joined other cruisers at the Jib Room restaurant at Marsh Harbour Marina for happy hour on Thursday evening from 5:00 to 7:00 pm. There is a cash bar and the restaurant (which is only open on Wednesday and Saturday nights) allows the boaters to bring a dish to share. It's a great way to have a meet and greet. There were some boats that we had met in Marathon and others that we have spent time with in other areas of the Bahamas. These get-togethers are really fun and over the years we have made many long time friendships after meeting at pot-lucks. There was a good turn out and the food is always excellent. We provisioned at Maxwells, a large U.S. style grocery store a few blocks from the dinghy dock. There are a couple of large liquor stores with good prices for spirits and soft drinks by the case. The road along the harbor has several excellent restaurants and shops. But once our windlass was repaired, we felt the urge to move on. The entire Abacos was ours to explore this trip.

It felt good to hit the up switch on the windlass and have it haul the anchor and rode up once again. It was midday, but everything is so close in the Abacos that most transits are about an hour or two. Our plans were to go to Hope Town for a movie presentation at the Hope Town Harbour Lodge, presented by the Bahamas National Trust. No, this isn't a bank. It is the agency that oversees the national parks including the Exuma Land and Sea Park at Warderick Wells. Hope Town has a harbor that is full of moorings and anchoring is not allowed. There is an anchorage outside the harbor, but the winds were forecast to be in the 20-knot range by evening, so we opted to stay at the Lighthouse Marina, just inside the harbor entrance and at the foot of the Hope Town Lighthouse. The marina only has 6 slips, but the overnight dockage is only $1.00 per foot plus electric and water. For us, it's only slightly more than a mooring and it was time for laundry and filling the water tanks, so it was the logical choice. 

Hope Town is an incredible settlement with picturesque homes, good restaurants, gift shops and a super beach on the ocean side. Walking the beach was how we spent many of the hours during our stay. We climbed to the top of the lighthouse, walked along the narrow streets (no motor vehicles allowed), and ate at a very inexpensive take out called Munchies. The ice cream at Sugar Shack was the perfect treat after a long walk around town. Hope Town is one of those places that we visit and hate when we have to leave. It is, in our opinion, one of the highlights of our Bahamas visits. During this visit, almost every mooring in the harbor was occupied. The marina slips were not completely full, but close. Shore access is available at several dinghy docks along the harbor, including one at a small grocery store. Many of them require you use a stern anchor so dinghies aren't willy nilly at the dock. Hope Town Harbour Lodge and the Hope Town Inn and Marina are incredible facilities.

As much as we would like to spend more time here, the rest of the Abacos beg for exploration. We do have limited time since our insurance company wants us north of Jacksonville, FL by June first. That means our time will have to be rationed as there are still many more harbors we plan to visit and lots of small cays that are wonderful spots to anchor and snorkel. It is in the back of our mind that this trip is winding down, but not yet. Our next stop will be Man O' War then Treasure Cay and finally Guana Cay before we head through Whale Cay Pass and on to Green Turtle Cay. Winds are expected to pick up in a few days so we will need a spot to hold up until it blows through - Man O' War or Treasure Cay. We'll see which way the wind blows us.

Heading For The Abacos

You can't spend time in Spanish Wells and not enjoy the stay. The dockmaster at Spanish Wells Yacht Haven is the local concierge and can provide boaters with about anything they might need. We rented a golf cart from there for the day and split the cost between ourselves and another cruising couple making it very inexpensive. This is a great way to reprovision and restock without carrying bags full of supplies and equipment for blocks from the store to the boat. We took the ferry to Harbour Island one day, and rented a car that our concierge arranged and drove south through Eleuthera another. We also walked the beautiful beaches along the north shore of St. Georges Cay and enjoyed all that the settlement of Spanish Wells had to offer. But it was time to move on and we looked forward to getting into the Abacos. The weather wasn't totally to blame; we had some perfect days with sunshine and light winds. The biggest, and I do mean biggest, hold up was the 8- to 9-foot seas in the Northeast Providence Channel between Spanish Wells and Little Harbor in the Abacos. But the seas couldn't stay up forever.


Finally, the forecast wasn't perfect but it wasn't horrible either. The big seas had kept us from exiting the cuts from Spanish Wells and even more importantly, getting in the cuts once we arrived in the Abacos. We didn't want to arrive and then find out we had no place to go. There are two options when heading north toward Little Harbor. One is to go west past Royal Island and exit at Little Egg Island or Southwest Reef. This would add hours to our trip. The other option is to exit through the reef at Ridley Head just north of Spanish Wells. This route takes you toward the dreaded Devils Backbone and requires going between a series of reefs until reaching the deeper waters of Northeast Providence Channel. The ferry ride to Harbour Island gave us a good look at this route and it appeared to be very doable under the right conditions. This was the route we decided to take. When departure day came, there were five other trawlers beside Beach House that planned to make the crossing. We all paid our marina bills, cast off our lines at 8:40 am and headed out. BUT, no one wanted to be the first to go out across the reef. The morning was overcast, causing even more anxiety because visibility would not be good. We planned to use this exit anyway, so it didn't matter to us who went first, so of course, we did. The rest of the boats followed us out. Using our charts, shoreside points and good eyeball navigation, we rounded Ridley Head, lined up the ramp on shore and headed out through the reef - with five other boats behind us hoping we knew what we were doing. The reefs are wider apart than they appear on the charts and we took our time. In short order, the depth sounder was dropping to 25 feet, then 30 feet and then we were soon off soundings. I love it when a plan comes together.

This didn't turn out to be one of our better crossings. The 2- to 3-foot swells turned out to be more like 5-foot easterly swells with a 3-foot wind wave coming from the south. These bigger easterly swells were right on our beam and made for a very, very rolly and uncomfortable ride for the next seven hours. We surfed down some of the swells and then came to a screeching halt in the troughs. These conditions were not made for small trawlers, but we were committed and there was no turning back. It actually was lighter at first and built as the day progressed. All of the other boats but one traveled faster than we did, and we soon watched as they disappeared over the horizon. As we approached the Abacos, the big swells moved more aft, but it still was pretty uncomfortable as we surfed down the face of the swells and watched the speed reach almost 10 knots. It was a fine sight as the cut at Little Harbor appeared in front of us, but it wasn't over yet. As we altered course to enter the cut, the swells and wind waves were directly on our beam, and the last five miles were even more uncomfortable. But then we broke through the cut, and other than some following surge working in, it suddenly became so much calmer.

Plan A was to go into Little Harbor and pick up a mooring or find a spot to anchor. Listening to other boats ahead of us, we had the impression that all of the moorings were full. We were unable to raise anyone in Little Harbor on the radio - not Pete's Pub or any of the boats inside the harbor. The entrance channel is 3 feet at low tide and the tide was falling. We didn't want to try and get in, find no space and not be able to get out. The harbor is fairly small. So we moved on to Plan B. On previous visits, we had spent time anchored behind Lynyard Cay and knew the holding was good and the surge almost non-existent. So off we went with one other boat following us. At 4:00 pm, we dropped the hook behind Lynyard Cay just off a small beach near the north end and breathed a major sigh of relief. It had been a long day, and if we had known the conditions we would encounter, we may have delayed the crossing for another day to let the seas subside. But now that we were here, we were happy to finally put the crossing behind us.


The next morning we dinghied in to Little Harbour. This was the long time home of the artist and sculptor, Randolph Johnston, world renowned for his sculptures in brass and bronze. His son Peter now carries on the tradition, and the family foundry, as well as a gallery, are two of the main attractions. And don't forget Pete's Pub. We visited the gallery, had a great lunch at Pete's Pub and walked over to the Atlantic side to watch the surf break on the rocks. Little Harbour is a very picturesque location, but things to do are limited. There is now a charge to visit the foundry. The last time we were here, you could just walk in and watch them work. One can still see the caves in the rocks, located at the southwest end of the harbor, where the Johnston family lived when they first arrived in the Bahamas. It can all be done in one day, so we decided to move a little farther north and find another anchorage to put us closer to Marsh Harbour, our next major destination.

On our last trip through the Abacos we sped through without spending much time. Because we are still working on our anchorage book for the Bahamas and we had missed so much the last time, our plans were to stay in the Abacos for about a month and visit as many places as time would allow. At 2:30 in the afternoon, we pulled up anchor at Lynyard Cay and moved about 13 miles to Tilloo Cay. We arrived at about 4:00 pm and got a big surprise. As we reached the spot where we planned to anchor, the windlass decided to quit working. Hitting the up or down switched resulted in nothing. We carry a second lightweight Fortress anchor, complete with rode and chain, so we dropped the Fortress, figuring that if we had to retrieve it by hand, it wouldn't be as much effort as our heavier Manson Supreme. The anchor went down and we used our standard anchoring practice of paying out at least 7 to 1 scope and then backing down on the anchor to set it. As we backed down, the anchor just dragged across the bottom. The anchor and rode were hauled back up by hand and we tried again with the same results. The concern now was that for some reason the Fortress wasn't setting, so that only left using the heavier anchor and rode. Well, that didn't set either. Up it all came again, this time with a whole lot more effort. The bottom appeared to be a thin layer of sand over hard rock, making it almost impossible to get a good set. We moved to a different location hoping to find better holding. Down went the anchor and rode, and with the boat in reverse, we were still dragging. As we dropped back, we continued to let out more rode. Suddenly, and much to our delight, the anchor grabbed and seemed to be holding. The winds were forecast to be light overnight, so we settled back and took in the new location.

The evening went without incident and we had a good night's sleep. The next morning, the winds were to start building so we wanted to get to Marsh Harbour early. At just after 9:00 am, we pulled up our well-set anchor and headed for Marsh Harbour. The trip took about two hours, and the winds were at 15 to 20 knots by the time we arrived. We followed a catamaran into the harbor that had been in Marathon while we were there. The harbor was getting full, but there was still plenty of room. We found a nice open spot just below the BTC tower and near the public dinghy dock. This time the anchor set quickly and the first time. The windlass was still not working so one of the first orders of business would be to find someone to make the repairs. Marsh Harbour is considered the hub of the Abacos and is a major provisioning, supply and, most importantly, repair spot for boats spending time in the Abacos or heading back to the U.S. We were confident we could get the work done and be back in business in short order. In the meantime, the only other thing that needed to be done was relax and enjoy just being here.

Spanish Wells Eleuthera

The first colonists to settle Spanish Wells were shipwrecked on the reefs at Devils Backbone. They lived in a cave on Eleuthera that exists today as Preacher's Cave and later moved to Spanish Wells. Later, British Loyalists that left the Colonies after the Revolutionary War relocated there. The name Spanish Wells comes from the Spanish ships that stopped here to replenish their water supplies from the wells on the island. For us, this is one of our favorite ports of call in the Bahamas. Our planned 3-day stay before a good weather window turned out to be a much longer stay, after the window not only slammed shut, but bad weather set in. But that's okay, if this is where we would have to wait it out.

There are two channels into Spanish Wells. One from the east and another from the south. After our transit of Current Cut, the wind started picking up in earnest. We headed directly for the south entrance to get in and secure as quickly as possible. The channel through the harbor is narrow but deep. Large island freighters and ferries come in and out of the harbor every day. There is only one small anchorage inside the harbor that can be exposed in southerly winds, so we opted for a slip at Spanish Wells Yacht Haven. We had stayed there many years ago and were placed in a slip right next to where we had stayed on Sea Trek.

The streets of the settlement are lined with beautiful, well-cared for homes with manicured gardens and a golf cart parked in every driveway. Some of the homes date back hundreds of years and others are of new construction. Most any service needed by a boater can be found in the waterfront area. Marine supplies, mechanics and even a haul-out facility via a rail car are available. There is a nice grocery store, appliance shop, bakery and general merchandise stores located throughout the settlement. We found some very good and inexpensive restaurants also located on the waterfront.

Our next weather window to cross to the Abacos would not be for at least a week. So we decided to see more of the area than we did on our previous visit. The ferry Bo Hengy docks twice a day and runs from Nassau to Spanish Wells to Harbour Island, returns to Spanish Wells and then goes back to Nassau. We took the ferry to Harbour Island for the day to enjoy a bit of upscale Bahamas. The route over to Harbour Island takes the ferry across the Devils
Backbone, but the captain seemed to know the route well. Even on the large ferry, the swells working over the reef made the ferry roll enough for us to hold on. The ride over takes about 30-45 minutes.

Harbour Island is a very upscale settlement with three large marinas, including resorts, homes on narrow tree-lined streets and many shops and restaurants. Maybe even a little too upscale for our taste. We stopped at a restaurant on the beach called Sip Sip. The least expensive item on the menu was a hot dog for $19.00. We decided to have a soft drink and move on to something more reasonably priced. We found a great snack shack (Seaview) right at the ferry dock with good food and good prices. It turned out to be where the locals eat. The owners were very friendly and the food plentiful. After a day of roaming around town and visiting the marinas and resorts, it was time to board the ferry and head back. The ferry has a large air-conditioned cabin with a snack bar and CNN on several large TV screens. But we were most interested in the route, since we would have to come part of the way when we decided to leave and cross over through the reef system. Most boaters hire a guide to bring them through.

The next day we took a smaller government ferry over to Eleuthera and rented a car for the day. We split the cost with another couple that were in the slip next to us, and we planned to tour Eleuthera by land for a change. Our first stop was to see the Preacher's Cave, then we drove down to the Glass Window. This bridge was hit by a storm in 1991 and shifted 7 feet to one side. It was repaired right where it landed and is in use today. You can see where it had been before the storm. We continued south and enjoyed the countryside along the way.

The drive through Hatchet Bay, Rainbow Bay, Governors Harbour and South Palmetto Point was spectacular and the time passed too quickly. We had lunch at a funky restaurant in Governors Harbour that made the best burgers we have had in the Bahamas, but it wasn't cheap. We stopped at several beaches along the way to stroll and pick up shells and beach glass. South Palmetto Point had been the anchorage we enjoyed near the Pineapple Cays the night before we moved to Spanish Wells. The day flew by and before we knew it, we had to turn around to give us enough time to get the rental car back and catch the last ferry. It turned out to be a terrific day. The ferry back to Spanish Wells was packed full when it arrived on the Eleuthera side, but we had it to ourselves riding the short distance back. The perfect end to a perfect day. So what will we do tomorrow?

Coast Guard Proposes Fees For Documentation Renewals

We have gone to the provided link and left our comments. I would urge any of our friends and followers to do the same and let them know how you feel about this fee. Our thoughts are that if indeed they plan to institute a fee, then the renewal should at least be for multiple years rather than annually. Chuck

From BoatUS...

Dear BoatU.S. Member,

Do you own a federally documented vessel? The U.S. Coast Guard is proposing to charge an annual fee of $26.00 for the renewal of certificates of documentation for recreational boats. While the Coast Guard charges to issue new certificates of documentation for boats, currently there is no charge for annual renewal.

This fee will only apply if your boat is federally documented and would be in addition to any state registration fees. For current information on federal vessel documentation, visit the United States Coast Guard Documentation Center.

We encourage you to share your thoughts with the Coast Guard on this proposal before May 3rd, 2013, by going to http://www.regulations.gov/#!docketDeta ... -2010-0990

Please forward this email to fellow boaters with documented vessels. If you have any additional questions, please contact BoatU.S. Government Affairs at GovtAffairs@BoatUS.com.

Exumas To Eleuthera

There are just too many wonderful places to stop and experience in the Exumas to see them all in one season, given our limitations. Many will have to be left for the next time. From the Exumas, our next destination was Eleuthera. There are several ways to get there, but most cruisers will exit through the cuts at Warderick Wells or the Normans/Highbourne Cay area. We chose Warderick Wells because the cut is wide, deep and there are no reefs or obstacles to navigate around. Beach House exited the cut at 9:30 am, heading for Cape Eleuthera, and from there we would decide later. We had a good weather window for the crossing, but a strong front was due to arrive in a couple of days. A harbor with good, all around protection was an important consideration once again. It just seems like this entire trip has been weather driven for the most part. That makes it hard to really enjoy the experience.

The crossing was smooth with light winds at around 10 knots and small seas. By 2:00 pm we arrived at Cape Eleuthera just off the marina. We didn't plan to stop, but we had been there years before when it was closed and you could just pull in and tie up. The entrance is open to the west and that is where some of the stronger winds would be coming from later in the week. We imagined that a pretty good surge could work into the marina and make it uncomfortable. We pressed on and considered going to Rock Sound for the next few days. But as usual, the weather forecast seemed to be changing and the strong winds were actually coming later. The forecast also looked good for a crossing to the Abacos in three days so we made a spot decision to keep on going and try for Spanish Wells the next day. If the forecast changed again, we could always duck into Hatchet Bay, which is a very protected harbor.

A quick check of the charts showed our best anchorage for the night would be around Ten Bay. We had been there before. It's a beautiful spot with a great beach. It seemed that the wind would be shifting more to the north so we chose to stop for the night at South Palmetto Point with good northerly protection from the nearby Pineapple Cays. We dropped the hook just off the beach at 5:20 in the afternoon and settled in after a long day. The setting was perfect and the sunset spectacular. During the night the winds died and the next morning we woke to smooth, clear seas that made the bottom look like we were in inches instead of feet of water.

Our mornings begin at around 6:30, gathering weather information for the current day and upcoming week. Our weather window was still holding so we needed to be in the Spanish Wells/ Royal Island area to stage for a crossing in the next two days. By 7:40 am, we were once again underway in flat seas and hazy skies. An important transit for us would be Current Cut, about 10 miles south of Spanish Wells. The cut can be difficult, and under certain conditions, impassable. The current can run as high as 5 knots, and slower boats, like ours, can have a difficult time. Ideally, the cut should be done at slack water. But when is it ever ideal? A little after 1:00 pm, we arrived at the cut. The tides were incoming, and slack water had been about an hour and a half earlier. There was a fishing trawler anchored right in the old channel that approaches the cut straight in from the Bight, but they would not answer the radio.

There is another approach, which for us proved to be better. Picking a spot just southwest of the cut near Current Island, we used a channel that parallels the island very close to shore until we were abeam of the cut, then turned into it. This kept the boat out of the strong current for as long as possible. The channel is a little tricky with shallows and patch reefs on both side. But the deeper water is visible. And wouldn't you know it, the wind was picking up and making for a bouncy ride just before we entered the cut. Once we entered the deeper water of the cut, the current grabbed us in earnest. We turned the bow toward the north before we could be swept too far south and powered the boat up to try and compensate for the current. There were whirlpools and eddies all around us. Even at increased throttle, once Beach House was committed to the cut, our forward speed dropped down from 7 1/2 knots to about 3 knots. It was a long, slow trip for such a short distance. Even once we were out the other side, the currents were still strong until well clear of the cut. Once the boat was back up to speed, we gave a big sigh of relief.

With the wind continuing to increase from the south and east, Spanish Wells became the choice for our destination at days end. It was decided that the anchorage at Royal Island would probably be too rolly with winds from this direction. At about 2:00 pm, we entered the south channel into Spanish Wells. It had been many years since we had been there last so we were looking forward to our visit. Spanish Wells is one of those Bahamas destinations where you can find any service, supply or distraction you might be looking for. By now, the forecast 10 knot winds were blowing 15 to 20 knots so it was nice to be somewhere secure. But how long would we need to stay?

More Photos Of Our Bahamas Cruise

Many of you have asked us to post more photos of our Bahamas cruise. The blog postings using the internet in the Bahamas can be problematic but for more great photos you can visit our Facebook page. If you like what you see, remember to click the Like button. Leave a comment too and let us know what you think and what you would like to see. Enjoy. Chuck and Susan

Exuma Cays

The Exuma Cays may well be one of the most beautiful cruising grounds we have ever experienced. Beginning with Sail Rocks and Ship Channel Cay, just slightly south and east of Nassau, the Exumas stretch down to Great and Little Exuma to the southwest. The Exumas offer anything from remote anchorages, to small settlements, to busy towns like Georgetown. Many cays offer fabulous beaches, unusual wildlife and some of the greatest anchorages you may ever experience. It has been a great joy to be able to experience this wonderful cruising ground once again as we continue our research for the next edition in our Great Book Of Anchorages series, the Bahamas Edition. Someone pointed out to us that there is just no way we can call this work, so we won't try.

The road most traveled by a majority of cruisers is to head south from Nassau, across the Yellow Banks and then southwest to Allans Cay. The anchorage is between Allans and Leaf Cay. The currents here are strong so either two anchors are needed or you need an anchor that will reset well in reversing conditions. Dinghy in to Leaf Cay and say hello to the native iguanas. When seas are up in Exuma Sound, the deep water side of the Exumas, a surge can work into the anchorage that can make it uncomfortable. Deeper draft boats may have to anchor in the cut at the south end of Leaf Cay or off the west side of the Cays if there is no westerly component to the wind. From Allans it's just a short hop to Highbourne Cay if a marina is needed. There are some supplies sold at Highbourne. Be aware that a strong surge can work in around to the west side of Highbourne and make this a very uncomfortable anchorage.


There are many, many, opportunities for some wonderful stops south of Highbourne Cay. Normans Cay is another very popular stop with some good snorkeling. There is a wrecked drug lord's plane in the lagoon, but not much of it is left. We visited when a good portion of the plane was intact and the old mansion was still in fair shape. But it's still fun for a day or two. There is a very good anchorage on the west side of Norman's in prevailing winds. There is a beach bar on Normans that has a very good cheeseburger in paradise. From Normans, the anchorages at Shroud Cay and Hawksbill Cay are indescribable. The crystal clear water, outstanding snorkeling and white beaches are all must visits.

Wax Cay marks the northern boundary of the Exuma Land and Sea Park. The Park is a no-take zone and that means, fish, shells, coral or ANYTHING. Stiff fines can be levied if you're caught with anything and the Park Wardens are always on the lookout. We were a bit disappointed on our recent visit. We almost felt like we were back in south Florida in one of the areas that require you to take a mooring. The north anchorage has always had moorings and we have used them in the past. But recently moorings have been added in one of the other popular areas where boats would often anchor (near Emerald Rock). We can understand moorings to protect the coral in the park, but this new area has nothing more than a sandy bottom. There are buoys installed as markers and all boats must anchor west of these marker buoys. As a result, you are forced to anchor farther out in much more exposed areas, or take a mooring. The moorings are not free and we felt we were being punished for not taking one since we were also told that the Park would not share their paid wifi with us unless we took a mooring. We have never experienced this in the Bahamas anywhere else. But we did enjoy our time there, and it's still one of the most beautiful cruising areas anywhere. The upside is the mooring fees are used to pay park employees and upkeep of the park. Park boundaries extend south to about Little Bell Island and Conch Cut.

Boats with deeper drafts can continue south on the banks, and the next popular stop is the Sampson and Staniel Cay area. There is a marina at Sampson with a restaurant that is by reservation only. You need to tell them what you want to eat and how many people there will be so they'll know what to cook. The marina also sells fuel if it's available. It is all expensive. Everyone's favorite is Staniel Cay and Big Majors Spot. Big Majors is where you can find the famous Pig Beach. The pigs will see you coming in your dinghy and swim out to meet you. They expect something to eat and can get quite aggressive at times. It is indeed a sight to see and one you will always remember. Staniel Cay is a good spot to hang out for a while. The Yacht Club offers fuel, water at a price, and dockage if you need it. Ashore there is a restaurant, bakery and two small grocery stores. Snorkeling is excellent, especially at the Grotto where one of the James Bond movies, "Thunderball," was filmed.

Farther south is one of our favorite settlements, Black Point. This is one of the largest settlement in the Exumas second only to Georgetown. The settlement is typical of the friendly Bahamas experience we have encountered everywhere we have been. There is a government dock where the supply boat lands and this is the best spot in which to anchor. Be sure and leave enough room for the supply boat; it's rather large. There is a community dock to land the dinghy. The settlement has a modern laundry, a cafe, several small groceries and free wifi at the cafe or near the church. You can often find ladies working their magic making baskets and all sorts of wares from straw and palm fronds. Don't bypass Black Point and plan to stay a while. From Black Point, Farmers Cay is another popular stop. There are occasionally festivals for special events at Farmers and there is a restaurant there, but we have never felt is was one of our must see places.

For deeper draft boats, Galliot Cut is the last opportunity to transit off the banks to the deep waters of the Exuma Sound. It's wise to keep a good eye on the weather before heading into the Sound; winds and seas can make for an uncomfortable trip. Under the wrong conditions, a rage can build in all the cuts and you can suddenly find yourself in some heavy weather with no place to go. For shoal-draft boats like Beach House, you can carry on farther south as far as Rat Cay Cut and stay in the more protected waters. All of the cuts in the Exumas can have strong currents depending on which way the tide is flowing. These currents need to be respected and planned for anytime you enter or exit the cuts. If a strong wind is opposing the currents, the cuts can become impassable.

From Galliot Cut, the entrance at Elizabeth Harbor is about 34 miles. It's straightforward, and since the Sound is deep, there are no hazards to worry about as long as you stay a short distance off the outlying cays. The west entrance to the harbor is wide but can get very rough if winds and waves have been building. The Conch Cay light is obvious, but the transit of the harbor is not straightforward. Once off the Sound and moving toward the inner harbor, there are a number of shoals and coral heads to be avoided. A good set of charts, like Wavey Line, and close study BEFORE you get there will take some of the stress away. You will snake your way through until reaching the main anchorage area off Volleyball Beach or off the town. For many boaters, Georgetown is the Destination for the winter, and many boats come here year after year, spend months, and then return to their home countries. Which is unfortunate, since they bypass some really wonderful cruising grounds.

Georgetown is indeed a cruising mecca. The boaters are always planning events, pot lucks on the beach, volleyball tournaments, fishing excursions, dinghy raft-ups and every imaginable reason for a get-together. Any kind of boating service is available, and supplies can either be easily found or fairly easily shipped in from the U.S. At least easy from Bahamas standards. The town is the largest settlement in the Exumas and has a variety of shops and restaurants and a well-stocked grocery store, Exuma Market. The market has a very large dinghy dock and it can get crowded. There is a water faucet on the dinghy dock for filling jerry jugs and the water quality is not bad, and best of all, it's free. In town you can find banks, dive shops and hotels, and there is a good airport for flying almost anywhere you might need to go in a hurry. It's also a good place to fly in friends and relatives so they can come and enjoy the Bahamas with you. There is an on-again, off-again marina that sells fuel and water and offers dockage when it's open. Out of town, there is a haul-out facility for repairs and bottom painting. Making preparations to return home is easy and one of the better locations. We always have to be careful when we go to Georgetown. It's one of those harbors that swallows your anchor and makes it very difficult to pull up and leave. This is the terminus where most boaters turn around to head north again. Beyond is the out-islands where most cruisers seldom go - the more remote parts of the Bahamas.

For more general information on cruising the Bahamas, be sure to read our these posts...
What Cruisers Want To Know About The Bahamas, and
What Do You Do Once Your In The Bahamas?

Or go to the Categories listing on the left column and click on Bahamas.

Nassau To Warderick Wells, Exuma

It felt good to finally leave Nassau. The forecast wasn't great, but if we didn't move, we would be in Nassau for another week. We topped up the fuel tanks at Nassau Harbor Club because the diesel was only $5.74 a gallon, pretty good for Bahamas prices. It was about 9:30 AM and the sun was just beginning to get high enough for us to use eyeball navigation around the many patch reefs at the east end of the harbor, but more importantly, to navigate the numerous coral heads we would encounter crossing the Yellow Banks. Some of these heads are only a few feet below the surface and could do serious damage to a prop. With the sun overhead, clear skies and reasonably flat seas, they are easy to pick out. They appear as a bark blob in the water surrounded by white sand. There are many of these on the section known as the Yellow Banks, only a short distance from Nassau. The conditions weren't perfect - there were some clouds and it was a bit choppy, but all in all, doable. Once we reached Porgy Rock, it was a straight line to our destination at Highbourne Cay.

The good news was that the winds were out of the north at 10 to 15, and the wind and waves would be on our stern. The coral heads were easy to pick out and once we cleared the Yellow Banks, they were much fewer and still easy to spot. The rest of the day went well up until we made the turn off the banks toward Highbourne Cay. This put wind and swells right on our beam and we rolled all the way in until we cleared a shallow bar near Highbourne that knocked down the seas. Little did we guess that this would be a preview of things to come. Our first night at anchor in the Exumas would be one that we wouldn't soon forget.

Our first big surprise arriving at Highbourne was the number of megayachts at anchor. There were about 8 or 9 and we aren't talking about just big boats. Some were well over 100 feet and they all carried a fleet of jet skies and at least one large center console tender with about 750 horsepower total outboards on the back. The jetskis ran through the anchorage at full speed all afternoon and the tenders ran back and forth from the megayachts to the beach, at full throttle, with little regard for anyone else there. Highbourne Cay is a private cay and the beaches were serving as party destinations for the folks on the megayachts. As we approached Highbourne, a large megayacht named DreaMER almost ran us down and refused to respond on the radio. We had to make some serious avoidance maneuvers. It was not a pleasant experience and it was soon to get worse.

The parties went on well into the night but soon after we went to bed, the surge that works its way around the cay began to roll all of the boats in the anchorage. And we're not talking about a gentle roll. We're talking about a "throw things off the shelves and counters" roll. It lasted all night and into the morning until we hauled up the anchor and got out of there fast. This rates up there with the worst anchorage in which we have ever spent the night. The only other one that might have been worse, and only slightly, was behind the reef on the coast of Mexico at Tulum. No one got much sleep and at times it seemed that the flybridge might get ejected from the boat. We were very grateful to be out as early as possible and head south to Warderick Wells.

It was surprising to see all of the boats heading both north and south on the banks. At one time we counted about 15 sailboats heading north as we continued to move south. The winds and seas were much more pleasant than the day before and it was a great transit. Powerboats were also well represented. We felt right at home as some of the vessels were yelling at others on the radio about the wakes they were throwing up as they passed. For a moment it was like being back in South Florida. At 1:15 PM we dropped the anchor in the clear waters just south of Warderick Wells in the Exuma Land and Sea Park. There is a mooring field here but we chose to anchor just beyond the moorings. It has been a long time since we have been here and we looked forward to spending some quality time.

There have been a lot of changes since our last visit to the Park on our sailboat Sea Trek. But some things are just the same. You never forget the view from the ranger station as you look down on the moorings in the channel at the north end. It's absolutely spectacular and no matter how many times you have seen it, there is still the same "wow" factor. We felt like we had finally arrived.