Trawlering The Chesapeake Bay

Warning; This is a long post.
Great Bridge, VA is always a good stop along the waterway before entering the Chesapeake Bay northbound or after the Chesapeake if southbound. The free tie up on the wall between the bridge and lock gives access to groceries, shopping of all sorts, restaurants, hardware stores, pharmacies and most anything you might need. For us, it was an opportunity to visit with friends that live nearby. But after a few days of visiting and then waiting for the rains to let up, we locked through the Great Bridge Lock once more and motored north through the Norfolk/Portsmouth waterway. Cruising past our Naval Fleet and the many different types of vessels encountered along this stretch is always an amazing experience. We see everything from riverboats and nuclear submarines, to aircraft carriers and working tug boats. All against Norfolk's and Portsmouth's towering backdrop. There is always a visible security presence all along the waterfront, and they are serious about their job. It's imperative that anyone give the Naval vessels a wide berth.

Our destination for the day would be Hampton, Virginia. We wanted to explore the anchorages in the harbor, spend some time in the marina to catch up on laundry and give the boat a good bath. Entering Hampton Harbor is pretty straightforward as long as you follow the marked channel. Once inside the harbor, there are two potential anchorages; one directly across from the Public Piers and the other past a fixed 29-foot bridge. We chose the anchorage past the bridge to give us somewhat of a break from the constant boat wakes and also because it was less crowded than the one across from the docks. We found the depths to be shallower on the west side (it quickly dropped to 4 feet at low tide) and deeper on the east side, with 7 to 8 feet at low tide. There were also a number of floats to contend with, a sure sign we were finally in the Chesapeake Bay. We found a spot and settled in just as the rain began once again. This is a very nice anchorage with good holding and only a few local boats that enjoy coming by and waking boats at anchor. Fortunately, they all go home at night.

After a quiet evening, we called the marina the next morning and inquired about the availability of a slip for the night. They told us the marina was booked for the next couple of days with a Power Squadron group that was due to arrive, but they would put us on a waiting list if someone canceled. About the time we were trying to decide if we wanted to stay another day at anchor, the marina called to say a slip was open. This just might not have been a sign of good luck as we later found out. Up came the anchor and we moved into a slip at the Hampton Public Piers. There is a small dock near the bridge at the marina that can be used to tie up the dinghy and go ashore from the anchorage. Three dock hands met us at the slip and helped us tie up in the current. We immediately began the process of doing laundry and cleaning the boat. Thankfully, the rains seemed to have finally subsided, and the day was sunny and very warm. This would be the beginning of a long heat wave that stretched on for almost two weeks.

The slips on both side of us were empty when we pulled into the marina. About midday, a 40+ foot sailboat pulled into the slip next to us and promptly ran into the boat. They seemed to care very little since they "had a fender out," which didn't do much at all. Susan finally told them they needed to fend their boat off ours, fender or no. Just because people can afford to own a boat, they still may have no clue as to how to operate one. They finally got their boat tied up in the slip and we could breath a little easier. The marina soon began to fill up, all with very noisy go-fast boats. This was not a good sign and they began to party almost as soon as they arrived, some apparently before they arrived. The marina neglected to tell us that this "Power Squadron" group would be partying on the dock all night with drinking, loud music and folks that can only talk at the top of their lungs. Had we known this, we would have passed on the slip.

Hampton is a very nice town and we were fortunate that on the day we arrived there was a street festival going on only a few blocks from the marina. A large stage had been set up and several bands were scheduled to perform. There were several street vendors selling food and drinks, many restaurants and shops along the street and a couple of kid's bouncy castles for the younger ones. We enjoyed listening to the music and, of course, visited the local ice cream shop. Hampton is one of those towns where you can just walk around and enjoy the sights. The Virginia Air and Space Center is right at the waterfront and open to the public. A visit to the restored 1920s carousel is like stepping back in time. You can visit the Hampton History Museum or visit Fort Monroe by ferry or bus. The grocery store isn't nearby, but a taxi or bus ride will get you there. Our visit was a short one, just the one day, but well worth the stop and maybe the next time we will stay longer. With all of the weather delays, we were anxious to move up the bay.

Beach House was underway at dawn the next day to take advantage of light morning winds crossing the Bay. Our next destination was Nandua Creek on the eastern shore of Virginia. The plan for our Bay transit this trip was to move up the eastern shore all the way until we were north of the Bay Bridge, and then cross over to the western shore. Nandua Creek is a little known creek, and we wanted to explore it and see if it would be a good anchorage between Hampton and Crisfield, MD for our Chesapeake anchorage book. By noon, we were at the outer marker. A closer look at the chart showed that there may be a shallow bar with 4 feet about halfway into the channel. We were about an hour before high tide, so we hoped we would have enough water to get in. Between green "5A" and red marker "6," the depth sounder alarm went off telling us we were in less than 5 feet of water. The actual depth showed 4.7 feet. Once past the markers, the depths rose to 7 feet or more. This might be a concern to us since at low tide the depths would be 3 feet or less. Once inside, the depths were 8 to 11 feet and the holding where we anchored was very good. The anchor dug in immediately and the anchorage was beautiful. But we would have to plan our departure for high tide the next day to avoid grounding in the channel. High tide the next day, of course, was before sunrise or late afternoon. Neither was a good choice, but one we had to deal with.

The plan was to be up before sunrise and to be prepared to leave the minute there was enough light. That would put us in the channel at about the same tide on which we arrived. It would be close, but if we got in, we should be able to get back out. The problem would be that we would be on a falling tide, so if there was a problem, we would be stuck. Not something we looked forward to. The next morning we were underway as planned. As we headed out the channel, it was apparent the wind had picked up quite a bit and swells were rolling in the channel. As we approached the shallow spot, we tried a slightly different side of the channel in the hopes that there might be a little more depth. Just as we reach the shallow spot, a swell rolled under us and we hit the bottom hard in the trough of the swell. The crest picked us up again and the boat bounced once more in the next trough. It only lasted less than a minute, but seemed like an eternity. We felt the boat moving into deeper water and breathed a sigh of relief. The depth sounder had read 3.8 in the troughs, something that wasn't a problem when we came in. Once clear of the channel and in deeper water, the bilge and rudder shaft had to be checked to be sure we didn't see any obvious damage. No water was coming in and the boat appeared to be steering normally. Beach House has a full keel running the length of the boat and it protects the hull and rudder. With such a problem channel approach, we decided that this creek would be best left out of our Chesapeake Bay Anchorage Book.

Crisfield was our next stop and we decided to take a slip at the marina rather than anchor in the harbor basin. Our pretty hard bounce that morning did give us a little cause for concern, so we wanted a diver to check the rudder area and be sure we didn't do any damage to the rudder or the shoe on which the rudder sits. Everything felt okay, but an inspection would give us piece of mind. With the number of jellyfish in the water, we didn't want to go in ourselves. Another issue in Crisfield is the problem of landing the dinghy. There are no public dinghy docks and the marina charges $10.00 per day to land the dinghy. This does include using the marina facilities, restrooms, showers and pool, however. It just made sense to tie up to the dock. Transient rates at the marina are $1.75 per foot plus electric. If you stay two nights, the third is free. There was a one-day festival going on in town, The J. Millard Tawes Crab and Clam Bake, so we stayed the entire three days. Crisfield is one of those small eastern shore working waterfront towns that is trying to become more. Beyond the few restaurants around the waterfront, and of course the festival, the town doesn't have a lot to offer. Many shops are boarded up and have been long closed. The marina is nice, but we felt a bit expensive for the location. The staff was very friendly and helpful and even didn't charge us for a rental bike to get out on the highway to the grocery store. 

After our three days, we were anxious to get underway. Three days in Crisfield is about our limit. Next stop would be a quiet anchorage in the Little Choptank River. Susan has a cousin that lives just off the river and one of her cousin's neighbors has a dock right where we wanted to anchor. We left Crisfield at 6:00 am and arrived at our anchoring spot at 3:00 pm. We anchored just out of the middle of the river near a spot called Solomons Cove. Susan's cousin drove over and picked us up at the neighbor's dock and brought us back to her house for a great dinner and conversation. We had a good visit and the night was quiet and calm. Winds were forecast to pick up from the south, but they never did. That's a good thing since this part of the river is wide open to the south.

The next morning early, we pulled up the anchor and headed for Cambridge, MD. The trip around from the Little Choptank to the Choptank and Cambridge took about 3 hours at our average cruising speed. The entrance to Cambridge is deep and well marked. Just inside the harbor and to starboard is a long town dock (a concrete seawall with numerous cleats) that is free to transients. As we approached the dock, we spotted folks we had met at the Dismal Swamp Welcome Station. It's funny how we keep meeting up with the same people at different places as we travel. The depths alongside the dock are not consistent, and the wall behind the County Building has depths of only about 4 feet at low tide. From the middle of the dock and toward Snapper's restaurant, the depths range from 7 to 9 feet. The dock is very nice at a park-like setting right in downtown Cambridge. There is no power or water at the dock, but trash cans are available. Good fenders are needed to protect the boat from wakes by passing waterman and pleasure craft. The tidal range is about 2 feet and will require a number of fenders to allow for the rise and fall of the boat at the concrete seawall. If the dock is full, there is an anchorage just off the dock with room for several boats. There was a sailboat at anchor when we arrived.

Downtown Cambridge is a quaint eastern shore town with a revitalized historic district. The storefronts are full with shops, galleries, restaurants and boutiques.The main area for supplies and provisions are just outside of town. There is a bus service that will take you to the shopping center where the grocery store, hardware store, marine supply, pharmacy and several other shops are located. You can do your shopping and ride the bus back to the downtown area near the town dock. Cambridge is another town to walk the streets and view the old historic homes. We did notice that some of the homes were in serious need of renovation and restoration. At the harbor entrance is a small park where a farmers market is held every Thursday afternoon and Saturday morning. There is also a reproduction of the Little Choptank Lighthouse that is open to the public. The original lighthouse is at the Maritime Museum in St. Michaels. Everything from fine dining to sandwiches are available within a short walk. Snapper's restaurant, at the seawall, specializes in Jamaican cuisine and seafood, and is quite good, if not a bit pricy. 

From Cambridge, we crossed the Choptank over to Oxford on the Tred Avon, with Susan's cousin Barbara on board for the trip. From the seawall in Cambridge to the anchorage in Oxford, it was a two-hour leisurely cruise for us. There is an anchorage off Oxford with a beach to land the dinghy. This is open to the river and subject to lots of wakes from passing pleasure boats, waterman and the Oxford Ferry, all running full blast. This is a very rolly anchorage so we passed on it and instead headed into the harbor and anchored just out of the channel past green marker "5" in Town Creek. Water depths in this small pocket range from 5 to 8 feet, depending on how far out of the channel you anchor. While anchoring, we saw something in the water that at first we thought was another float. Once the anchor was down, we looked closer and saw that it was a bird struggling in the water to stay afloat. When he saw the boat, he tried to swim to it and grab on to anything he could. Susan tried to scoop him up in a bucket, but he swam away and got under our swim platform. I was able to reach under and grab him just before he gave up and went under for the last time. We put him up on deck so his feathers could dry out and to see if he was going to recover. He did and we eventually took him back to shore.

We noticed the Schooner Restaurant across the harbor and called them to see if we needed reservations for lunch. They told us they weren't needed and we were welcome to tie the dinghy up at their docks when we came in. We had a nice lunch with Susan's cousin, who had made the trip over with us, and her son, who had driven over to pick her up. There is an ice cream shop in the same building, but on the other side from the restaurant. Lunch and dessert were enjoyed by all. It was time to do some exploration, and what better way to do it than by dinghy. A quick cruise around the harbor gave us the lay of the land and we found the public dinghy dock at the Hinkley facilities. The sign on the dock say Hinkley Ship Store/Dinghy Dock, but we checked in at the Hinkley office to be sure it was okay to tie up for awhile. They had no problem and welcomed cruisers as long as the dinghies were not tied up in such a manner as to interfere with boats in the slips. The rest of the exploration was done on foot.

Oxford is a very small, but very nice town. The Promenade is a walkway along the beach facing the Tred Avon River attached to the town park and is the terminal for the Oxford-Bellevue Ferry, considered to be one of the oldest privately owned, continuous running ferries in the U.S. The Oxford Museum is directly across the street from the park. Many visitors to Oxford consider a meal at the Robert Morris Inn a must. There are several marinas in Oxford including full service at Hinkley or Oxford Boatyard. To see some beautifully restored wooden boats, visit the Cutts and Case Shipyard for a real treat. Take a walking tour along the many tree-lined streets and enjoy the quiet, laid-back atmosphere. But it is a small town, and other than relaxing and enjoying the sights, there is not much else to do. We stayed only one day and a half and decided that because the weather was good we would move on. Our next destination was St. Michaels, and we wanted to save some time and miles by transiting through Knapps Narrows, a narrow channel well known for shoaling in on a regular basis. If we wanted to go through the Narrows at high tide, we would need to be close, early in the morning.

Just after noon, we pulled the anchor and headed back out on the Tred Avon. The breeze had picked up, but it wasn't uncomfortable, so we continued on toward Tilghman Island and Knapps Narrows. Our plan was to anchor just north of the Narrows in a spot called Dun Cove. The cove would put us about 45 minutes away from Knapps Narrows the next morning at just before high tide. Dun Cove is a beautiful spot with plenty of room to anchor. The only thing ashore is private homes, but there is an old abandoned dock near the entrance where you can land a dinghy and go ashore for a walk or to walk the dog. Protection is good from all around by utilizing one of the side branches depending on wind direction. In our easterly winds, we pulled straight in to the cove and dropped the hook in about 8 feet of water. The anchor set immediately. We sat back and enjoyed the peace and solitude, at least until a local came by and waked us a couple of times coming back and forth from his dock.

At 6:00 am the next morning, we were underway towards Knapps Narrows. The channel is narrow and the currents can be strong, so attention to the current is important to not be swept out of the channel into very shallow water. Even this early, the waterman were out en masse. One impatient skipper followed us into the channel. There is a drawbridge across the Narrows that opens on demand. We called the bridgetender well in advance to let him know we were on our way. Our impatient waterman called him also. The bridgetender was excellent and had the bridge up just as we arrived. Our waterman came quickly around us before we transited the bridge just so he could turn out of the channel to a dock just in front of us. As we went through the channel on the west side of the bridge, we slowed down looking for the notorious bar the extends into the channel at the red marker coming out of the Narrows. It was about a half hour before high tide, but we never saw anything less then 8.5 feet. At low tide, this would translate to 6.5 feet, plenty of water for our draft. Once again, we were not sure what all the fuss was about other than some folks not paying attention.

The rest of the trip to St. Michaels was uneventful, and by 9:30 am that morning, we had the anchor down just off the Maritime Museum. There were three boats already anchored when we arrived. This is a small anchorage just out of the channel between the Maritime Museum and the Inn At Perry Cabin. You must stay out of the channel when anchoring and consider this when swinging to wind changes. We tried a couple of spots before we found a location we were comfortable with that didn't bother the other boats at anchor. Once we felt confident in our anchor set and location, it was again time for exploration. The dinghy was launched and the outboard attached. With our electric winch system for the dinghy and the outboard lift, the entire process is fast and easy. The dinghy dock is a short run around to the inside of the harbor and is a long, floating dock to the left of and behind the Crab Claw restaurant. This is along the Harbor Walk and about a block or two to the downtown area. The anchorage can be quite rolly with traffic on the river and boats entering the harbor at high speeds causing the wakes to roll in. Winds from the east can also build up a good fetch. There is an anchorage inside the harbor itself or out in the river, but the river anchorage is very exposed from all directions. We were very surprised that the Maritime Museum now encompasses most of the waterfront with the exception of a small amount near the downtown. It's unfortunate since you can't access any of this waterfront without paying admission to the museum. If you haven't visited the museum before, it is worth the price of admission. But if you just want to walk the waterfront, you're going to be very limited in what you'll be able to see. 

Downtown St. Michaels is bustling with tourists, and even on a weekday, we found ourselves competing with the crowds for a table at the restaurant or a place in line at the ice cream shop. One very nice feature in St. Michaels is the Acme grocery store located right in the heart of downtown and a few short blocks from the dinghy dock. We haven't found groceries this convenient in any of our previous stops anywhere on the waterway. St. Michaels has become a tourist town with all of the shops and restaurants that a tourist spots offers. It made us feel a little sad to see just how much it has transformed. But on the other hand, the economy seems to be in full swing and that should be good for the locals. This isn't the sleepy historic community we came to visit many years ago. The prices reflect this, too, in the restaurants, marinas and shops. The grocery store, however, was reasonably priced. A pharmacy and the post office are right in town, also just blocks from the dinghy dock. Other supplies will require transportation to reach them.

After a few days, we considered that Friday was upon us. There is no way we wanted to be here on a weekend. The crowds and boat wakes were enough on a weekday and we were sure the boats and crowds would descend like an army come Saturday and Sunday. Even by Friday afternoon, the boats were already coming and the wakes off the river were getting pretty constant. Just after lunch, we pulled anchor and left the harbor, heading to the Wye River with plans to spend several days visiting friends that live near the head of the Wye. Once out on Eastern Bay, the boat traffic blew us away, keeping in mind this was midday on Friday. Every boat on the river was running at full throttle and waking everything in sight as if their destination might disappear if they didn't get there immediately. We ran a short distance up the Bay and turned into the mouth of the Wye River.

Once away from the craziness and in the Wye, we could again relax and enjoy the scenery. The trip up the river is beautiful, and a bit surprising to us were the number of McMansions that have been built along the banks of the river since our last visit. From St. Michaels to our planned anchorage, we covered about 20 miles. The river twists and winds and is very deep until you approach the extreme upper end. Within a couple of miles of our friend's house, it decreases to 9 and 10 feet, and then within about an 1/8 of a mile from their dock, it drops off to 6 and 7 feet, where we anchored. Any farther in and the depths drop to 3 and 4 feet. An 1/8 of a mile from their dock is just fine with us. On our sailboat with a 6-foot draft, we had to anchor much farther away. This end of the river gives all around protection, and the holding for the anchor has always been excellent. It's a very peaceful setting and the only disturbances are from the large population of osprey that live in the area. They are constantly chattering all day long. We did have a few weekend warriors that would make the trip all the way up the river and turn around at full speed near where we anchored. There were also a few locals that felt they didn't need to slow down going past us, but they were few and far between. We arrived the day before our friends were due back from vacation so we just spent the rest of the day relaxing on the boat. We have excellent phone and wifi signals in the river. Our only plans are to enjoy good company for a few days with old friends that we haven't seen for a while. We are also waiting for the next shipment of our anchorage books that are being shipped to us here. Then we will move on to the next wonderful destination...Chestertown.

The Great Dismal Swamp Canal And Welcome Center.

When we tell other boaters that we plan to travel the Great Dismal Swamp Canal, many respond that they would love to do it but are afraid to try. I already know the answer but I still have to ask, why? The answer is always the same. They are afraid that they will hit a log and damage the keel of the boat or their props or rudders. The canal has a reputation for debris floating in the water and, especially, lurking under the surface. The question then becomes, is that reputation and fear justified? The answer isn't that simple; it's yes and no. Is that fear and reputation enough to avoid a wonderful experience. It wasn't for us. After several trips up and down this stretch of the ICW, we vowed that this time we would do the Dismal Swamp, no matter what.

Heading northbound, a small detour to Elizabeth City is required, the perfect place to prepare for the canal transit. As we pulled off the town dock in Elizabeth City, it was necessary to time the trip from the drawbridge to the first lock at South Mills. There are two locks that need to be negotiated, each with their own drawbridge. The normal lock schedules for both locks are at 8:30, 11:00, 1:30 and 3:30 seven days a week. (from Donna Stewart, Director of the Welcome Center, "A quick note on the lockings…..there may be a slight delay if boats are coming from both directions, because boats coming into the canal are typically locked “up” first. But, the ACOE’s locking schedule is 8:30, 11am and 1:30, 3:30pm, no matter which direction you come from. So please be there at the appointed hour so you won’t miss your locking. We love to see your boats on our waterway.") The distance from the bridge at Elizabeth City to the South Mills Lock is about 18 miles. We cleared the bridge at 8:30 AM and adjusted our speed to make our arrival just before the 11:00 AM lock through. Taking the trip along the Pasquotank River in the early morning reminded us of the Waccamaw River, one of our favorites. This isn't an area you want to hurry through, rather it should be enjoyed at a slow pace. If you're in a hurry, take the standard Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal route.

Arriving at the South Mills lock about ten minutes ahead of schedule, there were two other boats already waiting. One was a trawler we had met at the town docks in Elizabeth City. The lock opened promptly at 11:00, and we slowly pulled into the lock as the Lockmaster picked up a bow and stern line from each boat so we could tie to the wall. Northbound boats are raised about 8 feet, depending on water levels on the river and in the canal. The controlling depth for the canal is 6 feet, but can vary depending on rainfall, or lack of rainfall, and other environmental factors. We found the shallowest water to be 6.8 feet and the average depths to be 8 feet. There have been some years in droughts when the canal was closed and years when storms have closed the canal. The lock transit went smoothly and took about 20 minutes. As the gates opened for us to exit the lock, the Lockmaster had to drive quickly up to the drawbridge to open it for the boats. There is a free tie up at the seawall (page 6, The Great Book of Anchorages, Norfolk to Key West) just before the drawbridge at South Mills if you want to stop for groceries or a bite to eat.

The entire canal is a no-wake zone with a maximum speed limit of 6 miles per hour. Traveling along the canal is almost a surreal experience. The channel is very narrow with overhanging trees, and water the color of a good cup of coffee, minus the cream. There are possibilities of hitting flotsam in the canal, but keeping a sharp eye forward, staying in the center of the channel and going slowly minimizes that possibility. Staying in the center of the canal also keeps the boat away from stumps, logs and fallen trees along the banks. Be watchful of critters swimming across the canal. We found several places where trees had fallen into the canal and blocked sections out to the center. These were all easy to see and avoid. Boat wakes often increase the problem by dislodging logs and branches that would normally be secure along the banks. The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers does an excellent job of clearing debris from the canal. They encourage boaters to report any problems to the Corps, the Lockmasters or the folks at the Welcome Center. Be sure and give exact locations with your report as they relate to the mile marker posts along the canal. They will promptly send a small boat to try and correct the problem immediately and if the job is too large, a barge is sent down the canal with equipment to handle just about anything.

The Great Dismal Swamp Welcome Center is at about mile 28. If coming from the south, the first thing you see is a pedestrian bridge across the canal that seems to be blocking your path. This bridge was built to get folks from the highway, across the canal, to the state park on the other side. The Park Rangers are always watchful of boats approaching and almost always have the bridge open well before you arrive. If they happen to be busy and don't see you coming, a short toot of the horn will get their attention and the bridge will quickly open. Once immediately north of the pedestrian bridge on the east side of the canal, is the Welcome Center and a free face dock (page 6, The Great Book of Anchorages, Norfolk to Key West)  long enough to tie up 4 or 5 boats, depending on size. Depths alongside the docks when we were there were 5.5 feet with a soft mud bottom. When docking, be sure and keep the space between your boat and the next as close as possible to make room for others. During the busy transit season, you will be expected to raft up with others. The dock can be busy and crowded in season. When we visited in July, we were one of two boats at the dock.

The Visitor and Welcome Center is both a rest stop for the busy highway and for the Canal. The staff at the Welcome Center has earned a reputation for being friendly and extremely helpful to boaters over the years. The Welcome Center provides 24 hour restrooms, free Wifi, free loaner bikes to ride the bike trails and if boats are delayed in transit for whatever reason, they have provided transportation to South Mills for groceries if needed. There is also a water bib at the north end of the dock. The State of North Carolina has put a sign on the faucet that says "non-potable water," but this is the same water that is piped into the restrooms and water fountains at the center. We put it in our tanks and found no problem. It is the same water provided to the residents of South Mills. There is also a lounge in the air-conditioned Welcome Center with a TV, book exchange, and a desktop computer connected to a printer if needed. Internet access is available at the lounge computer for those that don't use one on their boat. On the park-like grounds there are many shaded areas with picnic tables and outdoor grills. The staff at the Welcome Center can often provide charcoal.

Across the pedestrian bridge is the State Park, where you will find extensive hiking trails, bike rentals, and canoe and kayak rentals to paddle the canal. If you explore the hiking trails, be sure and use a good insecticide. During certain times of the year, the biting yellow flies can be brutal (June/July), and of course, there is the always present mosquito. Another concern for hikers are ticks, and precautions need to be taken. It's best to wear light, long sleeve shirts, hats and long pants. Check often for the little critters while on the trails. This is a wildlife sanctuary and the state does not allow for pesticide spraying at any time. When you cross the pedestrian bridge, be sure and register with the Park Ranger before going on the trails in case you get lost or have a problem, they will know to come and look for you. The State Park has its own Welcome Center where their bikes can be rented and a fabulous exhibit on the history of the area and the canal. There is also a nice display of animals native to the swamp that have been mounted by a good taxidermist. You feel like your eye ball to eye ball with the real animals.

There is no set limit on your stay but there is no long-term docking. Once you have enjoyed all the Welcome Center has to offer, it will be time to continue on. We headed north and one stop often overlooked is the tie up and dinghy ride over to Lake Drummond. Lake Drummond is the largest lake in Virginia and has a major affect on the water levels in the Dismal Swamp Canal. About 7 miles north of the Welcome Center there is a small dock to which you can tie your large boat. To the west is Drummond Feeder Ditch Canal that will take you to a spot where you will find a small trolley to put your dinghy on and haul it a short distance overland to Lake Drummond. The lake is large and flat and the shoreline all looks the same. It is best to take a handheld GPS with you to find you way back to your starting point when your day of exploration is over. It might also be helpful to tie a bright ribbon to a high tree branch near where you enter the lake. If the wind is up, the lake can be uncomfortable, so be aware of the weather. It can be very calm in the canal and very windy on the lake. Continuing northbound, you will come to the drawbridge at the Deep Creek Lock. You will need to call the Lockmaster and wait for him to drive down from the lock. If he is locking boats southbound, you will have to wait a bit longer. (There is also a seawall there on the east side before the bridge to which you can tie directly across from a grocery store.) Once the bridge is open and then closed again, he will then have to drive back to the Lock and open the gates for you to enter. There is a free dock on the west side between the drawbridge and the lock called Elizabeth's Dock. It has about 8 feet of water alongside and is about a half-mile walk to the town of Deep Creek. In Deep Creek you will find groceries, marine and auto parts, a hardware store and a few restaurants. If you're proceeding into the lock, have large fenders out for the lock walls and long lines at the bow and stern to pass up to the Lockmaster.

Robert Peek is the Lockmaster and he will keep you thoroughly entertained through the entire  locking process. Robert can tell you anything you want to know about the history of the canal and the current conditions. If you don't ask, he's going to tell you anyway. Don't be surprised to have Robert offer a fresh cup of coffee to anyone on board. If you have been to the Bahamas, Robert is always looking for replacement conch shells for his conch blowing lessons. You will get a lesson and demonstration whether you want it or not, and why wouldn't you want it? We found Robert to be a pleasant surprise and he makes transiting a lock a truly enjoyable experience. The locking process can take 20 to 30 minutes, but sometimes Robert gets really involved, so be prepared to take a little longer. It will be worth it. The Deep Creek Lock dropped us down 8 feet, and as the gates opened for us to exit, we got a big, "see you next time" from Robert.

The Dismal Swamp route connects to the ICW route just south of Norfolk. If you turn left at the intersection, you can proceed to the Norfolk/Portsmouth area. But for us, we weren't quite finished with locks for the day. We had plans to visit with friends in the Great Bridge area, so we turned right instead. We needed to transit the Steel Bridge, which only opens on the hour, so we topped off our fuel at Top Rack Marina. They usually have the best diesel prices on the waterway. Once topped off with fuel and through Steel Bridge, we proceeded through the Great Bridge Lock to the free tie up on the wall between the lock and the bridge. But that's a story for another time.

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Elizabeth City, North Carolina, The Harbor of Hospitality

Any boater that has transited the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway more than once has at least heard of the hospitality offered to boaters in this sleepy North Carolina town perched on the Pasquotank River. Most boaters are also familiar with the tradition of the Rose Buddies, but alas, the Rose Buddies have all passed on and the tradition is all but gone. A short detour off the traditional waterway on the Albemarle Sound will bring you to this friendly harbor, and you will still be met at the town docks by a fellow named Gus that has made himself the unofficial greeter, Dockmaster and historian at Mariner's Wharf. Gus will help you tie up in one of the 14 slips at Mariners Park (page 7, The Great Book Of Anchorages, Norfolk to Key West), give you the latest on the town and direct you to wherever you might need to go. It seems that many boaters don't know that the 14 slips at the park are not the only free facilities offered by the town.

Just off to port from the slips at Mariner's Wharf is a long bulkhead at Waterfront Park. The bulkhead is available for tie up also, but neither has power or water. At Mariners Wharf, there is a faucet hook up for a hose under a blue cover just behind the water fountain. There is another bulkhead just on the other side of the bridge, northbound, with a sign that says "Dock and Dine" where boaters can tie if everything else is full. At the Mariner's Wharf slips, the town provides free Wifi; we aren't sure if it is attainable at the other docks. There are no restroom facilities other than a Port-A-Potty at Mariner's Wharf, but there is some good news for the future. The town plans to put restrooms and a laundry for boaters in an existing building just off the slips. It should be completed by next season.

The grocery store and coin laundry is about a mile and a half from the town docks. A taxi or a bike is the best way to resupply or do laundry. The Post Office is about a half mile away. In the downtown area you will find small shops, boutiques, a book store and restaurants. The Cypress Creek Grill is across the street from the docks and is a local favorite. A short walk of a few blocks and you will find Quality Seafood, a restaurant and market. Have a great seafood lunch and buy some fresh fish to take back to the boat. After lunch, stop in the Museum of the Albemarle and experience the history and culture of the Albemarle region either by self or full guided tours. If you happen to be lucky enough, as we were, to be at the docks on a Saturday, you can enjoy the fresh produce, vegetables, baked goods and homemade wares of the open air market from 8:00 AM to 1:00 PM. This is not your average Farmers Market.

Elizabeth City holds several Festivals and Events each year. July is full of activities beginning with Mariner's Wharf Film Festival, a Fourth of July Celebration, Music and Arts Festivals, First Friday, and many more, just in July. During other months try the Coast Guard Harbor Nights Concert, First Friday Artwalk, Music on the Green with Classic Country Bands, and even a tractor pull. There is so much more to Elizabeth City than free dockage. You will meet some of the most friendly people found anywhere along the waterfront. If you are a dog person, this is a very popular place for the local dog-walkers. The dogs are as friendly as their owners. So often someone would stop by the boat and strike up a conversation. We felt like we had lived here for a long time and everyone did their utmost to make us feel welcome.

There is a downside, and that is the weather, if it happens to be blowing strongly from the south or southeast. Heavy winds can create a strong surge, and waves coming up the river cannot only make the water levels rise, but make the docks uncomfortable to downright dangerous under severe conditions. This also doesn't appear to be a no-wake zone and boats speeding up and down the river do create a lot of wakes on occasion. A nearby boat ramps adds to the problem. Under strong conditions from the south, the bulkhead on the other side of the bridge or anchoring beyond the bridge would be preferable. There is a boatyard in town with haul-out facilities, but service is very basic. There are no real services for boaters in the area, so major repairs will need to be done elsewhere. The boatyard does have a surveyor onsite.

If you might be looking for a marina, there are two in the area. Pelican Marina has dockage with a pump out and a restaurant onsite. It is across the harbor from town. Just a little farther north on the river is Lambs Marina, in a very protected basin. The channel to Lambs has been recently dredged to make access easy. It is some distance from town. There is plenty of space to anchor, but keep in mind that the harbor itself is deep. Dinghy access is available at any space along the town bulkheads or at the boat ramp near Waterfront Park, next to the small highway bridge.

The Visitor Center offers free loaner bikes to boaters for those long trips for groceries or laundry. The Visitor Center is open Monday through Friday from 9:00 AM to 7:00 PM. The gym in the Waterworks Building offers showers to boaters for a fee of $5.00, if a long hot soak is needed. Gus has a small pick-up truck that is a two-seater, but he will often offer lifts to the store if you might need lots of supplies. Don't be tempted to tie up for the night and move on. Stay awhile and enjoy true southern hospitality and a town that prides itself in welcoming boaters and cruisers. You won't see 24-hour limit signs on the pilings. Elizabeth City wants you to come, visit and enjoy. We sure did and we can't wait to go back. From Elizabeth City, we headed north to explore the Dismal Swamp and all it has to offer.

Manteo, North Carolina

The locals pronounce it Man-e-o. This jewel, located on the northern end of Roanoke Island just about 22 miles east of where the ICW channel exits the north end of the Alligator River, is often passed by boaters as they rush north or south to get to their seasonal destination. How unfortunate for them. During our current cruise north, we have encountered weeks of lousy weather and delays, and we were looking and hoping to find a good spot to relax and spend some quality time. Did we ever find it in Manteo. It all began while anchored in the Little Alligator River. We called Carl Jordan, Dockmaster at Manteo Waterfront Marina. Being cruisers, we often lose track of time including days or even months. Just as we called Carl, we came to the realization that the next day was July 3rd and we would be asking for last minute accommodations during the 4th of July Holiday. To our delight and surprise, Carl told us to “come on ahead and we’ll find room for you.” And that’s exactly what they did despite a full marina with reservations for the holiday.

Manteo is most famous for, and celebrates, the first settlement in the new colonies and the now famous “Lost Colony.” The town was named after an American Indian Chief named Manteo that acted as a liaison between the colonists and the local Indian tribe. In 1584, English settlers established a fort and settlement on the northern end of the island. In 1587, Capt. John White returned to England for supplies, and upon his return to the New World, all of the colonists were gone with only one word carved on a tree as a clue, Croatoan. The fate of the colony is still a mystery today. But the town of Manteo does an excellent tribute to those hardy souls that established the first foothold on the Outer banks. Known as Festival Island, a small island on the northeast corner of Manteo is dedicated to the celebration of those settlers. Visit the Settlement Site and step back in time to 1585. See how the settlers dressed, worked and lived their daily lives, all in authentic costumes.  Explore the Coastal Algonquian Indian village and sample the culture and discover how their community functioned. Board the replica of the Elizabeth II and help the 16th century costumed crew raise sails, plan navigation and even swab the decks. The Park’s Performance Series offers young entertainers presenting year-round music, dramas, dance, operas and children’s shows. Many concerts and events are held in the open-air pavilion with seats on the grass.

We were fortunate to be in Manteo during the 4th of July celebration which is held every year. And does the town know how to celebrate. Flags and red, white and blue bunting flutters in the breeze all over town. Street vendors are set up on the streets and parking lots selling everything from pizza and flavored smoothies, to chocolate covered bananas, cotton candy and lots more. Music can be enjoyed from the bandstand and bleachers set up in front of town hall. The shops and restaurants are full of locals and visitors alike, having a great time and enjoying the festive atmosphere. And then there are the fireworks. From our slip in the marina, we had ringside seats on our flybridge. This was the fun and relaxation we desperately needed. But you don’t have to wait for the 4th of July to celebrate in Manteo. The town celebrates First Friday, every month on ….the first Friday. The celebration is the same, minus a few flags and the fireworks. The restaurants stay open late, the street vendors are set up and music can be heard everywhere. And just to be sure Saturday doesn’t get jealous, they have a Farmer’s Market each Saturday from 8:00 am to noon. Dare Day is the first Saturday in June, celebrating the birth of Virginia Dare, the first baby to be born in the new colony, and the people and history of Dare County. The event features live music and street dancing. In August, there is the Arts festival, in October, the Bluegrass Festival at the Amphitheater, and on the first Friday in December, the Christmas tree lighting, followed by the Christmas parade the next day. And these are only the bigger events. There is also now a brand new Wildlife Museum and a popular aquarium.

To get to Manteo, you must first negotiate Shallowbag Bay. Just from the name, do we need to say more? We found it’s not as difficult as some of the guide books might have you believe. The channel off Roatan Sound is well-marked. Follow the markers, keeping the reds to port, and make no turns until you have nosed up to red 30A. Turn to starboard and keep to the green side until past greens 3 and 5, then move back toward center channel. Turn to starboard again at red marker 8, depending on which marina you plan to visit or if you might be anchoring.

Manteo is still a boater’s destination. If the conditions are good, the alternate route through Croatan Sound can cut off 17 miles from the ICW route and for sailboats it can mean a good sail all the way. Strong winds can make the Sounds very uncomfortable, so you will need to watch the weather. Strong southeasterly winds can make the harbor uncomfortable and pile in water. If the winds are blowing from the northeast for a time, the water levels can be lowered quite a bit, but when they switch to the west and northwest, the levels return to normal almost immediately. Prevailing winds in the summer are southwest and in the winter, northeast. The town tends to get busy shortly after the Annapolis Boat Show, as soon as many insurance companies allow the boats to go south of Cape Hatteras. During those times, it may be best to make reservations at one of the marinas in advance. There are three marinas in the harbor proper. Shallowbag Bay Marina, Marshes Light Marina and Manteo Waterfront Marina. Manteo waterfront is probably the most well-known and Carl Jordan, the Dockmaster, is one the most helpful and knowledgeable folks you will meet in the Outer Banks. The marina has 23 transient slips and is pretty flexible, as we found out. Carl is also the Dockmaster for the free town docks. These marinas are some of the closest to the Outer Banks. Transportation is available via rental cars from the local Ford Dealership. They will bring a car to you right at the marina.

Manteo has a very extensive town dock system for the use of boaters. Upon approaching the harbor from the channel, a long dock with a gazebo on the end is visible. There are docks with finger piers on one side and side ties on the other.  These are all part of the town dock and are free for 24 hours. The town docks extend farther into the small basin near the Maritime Museum. Water depths for the first 50 feet on the docks near the gazebo are 5 ½ feet. Beyond that, the water shallows to about 4 feet. There is no power or water on the town docks and registration with Manteo Waterfront Marina is required. If in the anchorage, any of these docks can be used to land the dinghy. Use of the marina showers, restrooms and laundry for boats at anchor can be had for a fee of $10.00 per day. Since the City owns all of the seawalls in the harbor, tying a dinghy up just about anywhere that won’t interfere with other boats is okay.

For supplies, the Food-A-Rama and Piggly Wiggly grocery stores are out on the main highway, about a half-mile from the waterfront. The laundry, pharmacy, post office and several fast food places are all in the same few blocks. The downtown area is a delight, with many shops and restaurants to enjoy.  A small general store just off the waterfront offers basic grocery items, beer, wine and soft drinks if the walk to the grocery isn’t needed. Just a few of the popular and excellent restaurants are right on the water or one block over. For lunch, try The Hungry Pelican or Poor Richards. For dinner, we really liked The Avenue Grille. You will have additional choices of The Full Moon Café and Brewery and, for a real treat, but a bit on the expensive side, 1587 is located in the Tranquil Inn. The staff is dressed in period costumes. The Coffee House offers many varieties of coffee, pastries and smoothies in a relaxing atmosphere. A visit to Mabel’s Scoop Shop for ice cream was one of our favorites.  A stop at the Wanchese Pottery shop is a don’t miss with a small gallery of hand crafted items, and you can watch the owner create on her pottery wheel. One of the best known attractions is The Lost Colony stage production. For 19 days each May, over 200 actors, technicians, designers and volunteers rehearse to bring The Lost Colony to life for another summer season. The production is enormous. The stage itself is over three times larger than most Broadway stages in New York. You will be seated in the center of the stage area with action happening on three sides of you and even sometimes right next to you in the aisle with epic battles and Indian dances. Experience the sorrow and heartbreak of tragedy and loss. Witness the pageantry of the Queen and her court and celebrate the birth of Virginia Dare. There is music, laughter, romance and dance. The Lost Colony is widely acknowledged as the precursor to the modern American Broadway Musical.

What more can we say. Our time in Manteo has been one of the most interesting stops we have made along the east coast on this cruise. There’s something going on all the time and something for everyone. If you’re looking for a true cruising destination, look no further. Take that 22-mile detour and you will not regret it. Rather you’ll wonder why you haven’t done it before, over and over.

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Belhaven, North Carolina

On September 21, 2013 the town of Belhaven, North Carolina will hold the 1^st annual Birthplace of the Inland Waterway Celebration. You might ask yourself, what is the Inland Waterway and why are they celebrating? The Inland Waterway is the original name for what is today called the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway. The reason Belhaven plans a celebration is because in August of 1928, 20,000 people, politicians, dignitaries, Coast Guard contingents, Corps of Engineers, Naval airplanes and powerboat racers converged on Belhaven to celebrate the completion of a 22-mile canal linking the Alligator and Pungo Rivers. This canal was the final component to complete the Inland Waterway and allow commerce to flow from the northern ports as far as Boston to Beaufort without having to go out into the Atlantic around Cape Hatteras. Belhaven officially became a seaport and also became known for its lumber industry, with 13 sawmills, 2-world renown, a growing seafood industry and a reputation for hospitality, second to none. 

The Belhaven of today is still a welcome port to recreational boaters traveling north and south along the Intracoastal Waterway. Not only does the city welcome boaters, they have made improvements not found in any other stops along the ICW. While many other towns are enacting restrictions, crowding out anchorages with moorings and pulling up the welcome mat, Belhaven is spending time and money to encourage boaters to stop by, visit and stay awhile to experience true southern hospitality. Would you believe they have completed a large town dock that is free and that the town dock provides power and water on the docks for free? And there is a pump-out (for a fee, sorry), at the town dock. Would you believe, there is another free town dock under construction, with free power and water? Well believe it. I asked the Town Manager, Guinn Leverett, why the town of Belhaven would go to such lengths for boaters at no charge and the answer was simple. To encourage boaters to come to Belhaven and enjoy what it has to offer.

The town received matching funds through the Boating Infrastructure Grant program for the docks and from the Public Health Services for the pump-out. The pump-out fees must remain at $5.00 for 4 years. To use the pump-out, the boater needs to purchase a token at the hardware store across the street and insert it in a slot at the pump near the head of the dock. The current dock is accessed by turning into the canal, known as Wynn’s Gut, next to the hospital. A row of pilings will be on your port and the remains of an old dock on your starboard. There is a railing around the end of the dock with an open gateway about halfway along. This is where the pump-out hose is located. A little farther along, the dock opens up and has tall pilings along the deck with sturdy cleats on which to tie. There are six power outlets with 30-amp service and hose bibs for water. There is even a water hose on the dock for boaters to use. It just doesn’t get any better than this. The canal is narrow and best suited for small to medium size boats. We would consider about 40 feet to be near the limit. Larger boats will not be able to turn around in the canal, but if backing up is not a problem, other than very large vessels, size may not be that important. We found 7 feet at the dock, but less on the opposite side of the canal. At this writing, there is bridge construction going on farther up the canal, but it was not disturbing and will be completed soon.

Belhaven is a small town with all of the same issues of any small town in today’s economy. There are some empty storefronts in the downtown area, but the town is working to make improvements. Three of the storefronts are under contract and should have tenants in short order. A new restaurant, Tavern at Jack’s Neck, is scheduled to open on Pamlico Street, a very short walk from the dock. Across the street from the dock on Pamlico is Farm Boys and the Front Porch, selling sandwiches and other fast foods and offering music and entertainment on weekends. For finer dining, the menu and cuisine at Spoon River is not to be missed. If a quick lunch menu or early meal is your choice, there is Fish Hooks Café or Gingerbread Bakery and O’Neal’s Café over on Main Street.

Rudlick and Whitley Hardware is across the street from Jack’s on Pamlico. This is a full-service hardware with “more stainless steel fasteners than most shipyards.” They also carry some basic boating supplies and have a very nice gift center. A coin-operated laundry is about 4 blocks from the waterfront on Pamlico next to the car wash. O’Neal’s Drug Store has moved a mile up the road to Main and 264, and the Food Lion Supermarket is out on Highway 264, about 1 ½ miles from the town dock. A ride or a bicycle will be needed to get to the supermarket unless you’re really into walking. Don’t miss a visit to the old City Hall, listed on the National Register of Historic Buildings. The Belhaven Museum, on the second floor, is open from 1:00 to 5:00 PM, but closed on Wednesday and Sunday. Guinn Leverett, the town manager, describes some of the exhibits as “many, many grandmother’s attics.” Many of the items on exhibit were from donations and estates from local citizens reflecting the people and their history. The Post Office and town library are within walking distance of the waterfront.

The stay at the town dock is limited, and like us, most boaters may want to spend some additional time relaxing, enjoying leisure activities or just doing some fishing. If you happen to be visiting during one of the annual festivals put on each year, like the Pirates on the Pungo Festival or the 4^th of July festivities, the free town dock will probably be full. In the past, Riverforest Marina was the crown jewel of Belhaven. The stately manor with its excellent food and well-known buffet was the place to dine for boaters and land cruisers alike. You could fuel up, dock your boat, enjoy fine food and the pool and sauna in a true southern setting. But alas, the jewels have fallen from the crown. The restaurant has been closed for some time, however, the marina is sort of accepting boats for dockage. The property owner lives in a house on the grounds. If you pull in to the docks and tie up, don’t expect any dockhands or Dockmaster, and if the owner happens to see you there, he will probably come down the dock and charge you something to tie up. The docks are getting tired and the property is showing its age. Belhaven Waterway Marina provides dockage and is located in the downtown area. Many boaters  stay at Dowry Creek Marina on, yes, Dowry Creek. It is a distance from town but provides a courtesy car for transportation and has a club house, pool, ships store, wifi and tennis courts.

 Belhaven also has a very large anchorage for boaters that prefer the solitude. Just behind the town dock is a new floating dinghy dock, well-protected inside the canal. Be sure and have a current chart of the area and beware of the shallow area just off the waterfront that must be negotiated around to get to the deeper anchorage. The holding is good in the harbor and Belhaven has just rebuilt the seawall separating the harbor from the Pungo River. Strong southerly winds can make the anchorage uncomfortable. 

 

A second Town dock is under construction and at this time needs only the power, water, cleats and safety equipment installed and it will be available to the boating public. The second dock is farther north toward the bridge in the harbor between the grain silos and the old brick chimney from the original cooperage mill. This second dock is about ¾ mile from the center of downtown, but is much closer to Highway 264, where one finds the grocery store, Dollar General and O’Neals Pharmacy. This is a well-constructed, sturdy dock with concrete decks, slips with finger piers and outer pilings for four boats, and an alongside tie opposite the slips. There is an end tee that a smaller boat could use. It’s in a quiet and beautiful setting, but there is some noise occasionally from the grainery. The second dock is just a further commitment by the city to make Belhaven inviting to the transient boater. 

If you haven’t been to Belhaven before, we highly recommend you stop and visit. If you haven’t been to Belhaven for a while, like us, we highly recommend you stop by and see what’s new. We believe you won’t be disappointed.