Heading For The Abacos

You can't spend time in Spanish Wells and not enjoy the stay. The dockmaster at Spanish Wells Yacht Haven is the local concierge and can provide boaters with about anything they might need. We rented a golf cart from there for the day and split the cost between ourselves and another cruising couple making it very inexpensive. This is a great way to reprovision and restock without carrying bags full of supplies and equipment for blocks from the store to the boat. We took the ferry to Harbour Island one day, and rented a car that our concierge arranged and drove south through Eleuthera another. We also walked the beautiful beaches along the north shore of St. Georges Cay and enjoyed all that the settlement of Spanish Wells had to offer. But it was time to move on and we looked forward to getting into the Abacos. The weather wasn't totally to blame; we had some perfect days with sunshine and light winds. The biggest, and I do mean biggest, hold up was the 8- to 9-foot seas in the Northeast Providence Channel between Spanish Wells and Little Harbor in the Abacos. But the seas couldn't stay up forever.


Finally, the forecast wasn't perfect but it wasn't horrible either. The big seas had kept us from exiting the cuts from Spanish Wells and even more importantly, getting in the cuts once we arrived in the Abacos. We didn't want to arrive and then find out we had no place to go. There are two options when heading north toward Little Harbor. One is to go west past Royal Island and exit at Little Egg Island or Southwest Reef. This would add hours to our trip. The other option is to exit through the reef at Ridley Head just north of Spanish Wells. This route takes you toward the dreaded Devils Backbone and requires going between a series of reefs until reaching the deeper waters of Northeast Providence Channel. The ferry ride to Harbour Island gave us a good look at this route and it appeared to be very doable under the right conditions. This was the route we decided to take. When departure day came, there were five other trawlers beside Beach House that planned to make the crossing. We all paid our marina bills, cast off our lines at 8:40 am and headed out. BUT, no one wanted to be the first to go out across the reef. The morning was overcast, causing even more anxiety because visibility would not be good. We planned to use this exit anyway, so it didn't matter to us who went first, so of course, we did. The rest of the boats followed us out. Using our charts, shoreside points and good eyeball navigation, we rounded Ridley Head, lined up the ramp on shore and headed out through the reef - with five other boats behind us hoping we knew what we were doing. The reefs are wider apart than they appear on the charts and we took our time. In short order, the depth sounder was dropping to 25 feet, then 30 feet and then we were soon off soundings. I love it when a plan comes together.

This didn't turn out to be one of our better crossings. The 2- to 3-foot swells turned out to be more like 5-foot easterly swells with a 3-foot wind wave coming from the south. These bigger easterly swells were right on our beam and made for a very, very rolly and uncomfortable ride for the next seven hours. We surfed down some of the swells and then came to a screeching halt in the troughs. These conditions were not made for small trawlers, but we were committed and there was no turning back. It actually was lighter at first and built as the day progressed. All of the other boats but one traveled faster than we did, and we soon watched as they disappeared over the horizon. As we approached the Abacos, the big swells moved more aft, but it still was pretty uncomfortable as we surfed down the face of the swells and watched the speed reach almost 10 knots. It was a fine sight as the cut at Little Harbor appeared in front of us, but it wasn't over yet. As we altered course to enter the cut, the swells and wind waves were directly on our beam, and the last five miles were even more uncomfortable. But then we broke through the cut, and other than some following surge working in, it suddenly became so much calmer.

Plan A was to go into Little Harbor and pick up a mooring or find a spot to anchor. Listening to other boats ahead of us, we had the impression that all of the moorings were full. We were unable to raise anyone in Little Harbor on the radio - not Pete's Pub or any of the boats inside the harbor. The entrance channel is 3 feet at low tide and the tide was falling. We didn't want to try and get in, find no space and not be able to get out. The harbor is fairly small. So we moved on to Plan B. On previous visits, we had spent time anchored behind Lynyard Cay and knew the holding was good and the surge almost non-existent. So off we went with one other boat following us. At 4:00 pm, we dropped the hook behind Lynyard Cay just off a small beach near the north end and breathed a major sigh of relief. It had been a long day, and if we had known the conditions we would encounter, we may have delayed the crossing for another day to let the seas subside. But now that we were here, we were happy to finally put the crossing behind us.


The next morning we dinghied in to Little Harbour. This was the long time home of the artist and sculptor, Randolph Johnston, world renowned for his sculptures in brass and bronze. His son Peter now carries on the tradition, and the family foundry, as well as a gallery, are two of the main attractions. And don't forget Pete's Pub. We visited the gallery, had a great lunch at Pete's Pub and walked over to the Atlantic side to watch the surf break on the rocks. Little Harbour is a very picturesque location, but things to do are limited. There is now a charge to visit the foundry. The last time we were here, you could just walk in and watch them work. One can still see the caves in the rocks, located at the southwest end of the harbor, where the Johnston family lived when they first arrived in the Bahamas. It can all be done in one day, so we decided to move a little farther north and find another anchorage to put us closer to Marsh Harbour, our next major destination.

On our last trip through the Abacos we sped through without spending much time. Because we are still working on our anchorage book for the Bahamas and we had missed so much the last time, our plans were to stay in the Abacos for about a month and visit as many places as time would allow. At 2:30 in the afternoon, we pulled up anchor at Lynyard Cay and moved about 13 miles to Tilloo Cay. We arrived at about 4:00 pm and got a big surprise. As we reached the spot where we planned to anchor, the windlass decided to quit working. Hitting the up or down switched resulted in nothing. We carry a second lightweight Fortress anchor, complete with rode and chain, so we dropped the Fortress, figuring that if we had to retrieve it by hand, it wouldn't be as much effort as our heavier Manson Supreme. The anchor went down and we used our standard anchoring practice of paying out at least 7 to 1 scope and then backing down on the anchor to set it. As we backed down, the anchor just dragged across the bottom. The anchor and rode were hauled back up by hand and we tried again with the same results. The concern now was that for some reason the Fortress wasn't setting, so that only left using the heavier anchor and rode. Well, that didn't set either. Up it all came again, this time with a whole lot more effort. The bottom appeared to be a thin layer of sand over hard rock, making it almost impossible to get a good set. We moved to a different location hoping to find better holding. Down went the anchor and rode, and with the boat in reverse, we were still dragging. As we dropped back, we continued to let out more rode. Suddenly, and much to our delight, the anchor grabbed and seemed to be holding. The winds were forecast to be light overnight, so we settled back and took in the new location.

The evening went without incident and we had a good night's sleep. The next morning, the winds were to start building so we wanted to get to Marsh Harbour early. At just after 9:00 am, we pulled up our well-set anchor and headed for Marsh Harbour. The trip took about two hours, and the winds were at 15 to 20 knots by the time we arrived. We followed a catamaran into the harbor that had been in Marathon while we were there. The harbor was getting full, but there was still plenty of room. We found a nice open spot just below the BTC tower and near the public dinghy dock. This time the anchor set quickly and the first time. The windlass was still not working so one of the first orders of business would be to find someone to make the repairs. Marsh Harbour is considered the hub of the Abacos and is a major provisioning, supply and, most importantly, repair spot for boats spending time in the Abacos or heading back to the U.S. We were confident we could get the work done and be back in business in short order. In the meantime, the only other thing that needed to be done was relax and enjoy just being here.

Spanish Wells Eleuthera

The first colonists to settle Spanish Wells were shipwrecked on the reefs at Devils Backbone. They lived in a cave on Eleuthera that exists today as Preacher's Cave and later moved to Spanish Wells. Later, British Loyalists that left the Colonies after the Revolutionary War relocated there. The name Spanish Wells comes from the Spanish ships that stopped here to replenish their water supplies from the wells on the island. For us, this is one of our favorite ports of call in the Bahamas. Our planned 3-day stay before a good weather window turned out to be a much longer stay, after the window not only slammed shut, but bad weather set in. But that's okay, if this is where we would have to wait it out.

There are two channels into Spanish Wells. One from the east and another from the south. After our transit of Current Cut, the wind started picking up in earnest. We headed directly for the south entrance to get in and secure as quickly as possible. The channel through the harbor is narrow but deep. Large island freighters and ferries come in and out of the harbor every day. There is only one small anchorage inside the harbor that can be exposed in southerly winds, so we opted for a slip at Spanish Wells Yacht Haven. We had stayed there many years ago and were placed in a slip right next to where we had stayed on Sea Trek.

The streets of the settlement are lined with beautiful, well-cared for homes with manicured gardens and a golf cart parked in every driveway. Some of the homes date back hundreds of years and others are of new construction. Most any service needed by a boater can be found in the waterfront area. Marine supplies, mechanics and even a haul-out facility via a rail car are available. There is a nice grocery store, appliance shop, bakery and general merchandise stores located throughout the settlement. We found some very good and inexpensive restaurants also located on the waterfront.

Our next weather window to cross to the Abacos would not be for at least a week. So we decided to see more of the area than we did on our previous visit. The ferry Bo Hengy docks twice a day and runs from Nassau to Spanish Wells to Harbour Island, returns to Spanish Wells and then goes back to Nassau. We took the ferry to Harbour Island for the day to enjoy a bit of upscale Bahamas. The route over to Harbour Island takes the ferry across the Devils
Backbone, but the captain seemed to know the route well. Even on the large ferry, the swells working over the reef made the ferry roll enough for us to hold on. The ride over takes about 30-45 minutes.

Harbour Island is a very upscale settlement with three large marinas, including resorts, homes on narrow tree-lined streets and many shops and restaurants. Maybe even a little too upscale for our taste. We stopped at a restaurant on the beach called Sip Sip. The least expensive item on the menu was a hot dog for $19.00. We decided to have a soft drink and move on to something more reasonably priced. We found a great snack shack (Seaview) right at the ferry dock with good food and good prices. It turned out to be where the locals eat. The owners were very friendly and the food plentiful. After a day of roaming around town and visiting the marinas and resorts, it was time to board the ferry and head back. The ferry has a large air-conditioned cabin with a snack bar and CNN on several large TV screens. But we were most interested in the route, since we would have to come part of the way when we decided to leave and cross over through the reef system. Most boaters hire a guide to bring them through.

The next day we took a smaller government ferry over to Eleuthera and rented a car for the day. We split the cost with another couple that were in the slip next to us, and we planned to tour Eleuthera by land for a change. Our first stop was to see the Preacher's Cave, then we drove down to the Glass Window. This bridge was hit by a storm in 1991 and shifted 7 feet to one side. It was repaired right where it landed and is in use today. You can see where it had been before the storm. We continued south and enjoyed the countryside along the way.

The drive through Hatchet Bay, Rainbow Bay, Governors Harbour and South Palmetto Point was spectacular and the time passed too quickly. We had lunch at a funky restaurant in Governors Harbour that made the best burgers we have had in the Bahamas, but it wasn't cheap. We stopped at several beaches along the way to stroll and pick up shells and beach glass. South Palmetto Point had been the anchorage we enjoyed near the Pineapple Cays the night before we moved to Spanish Wells. The day flew by and before we knew it, we had to turn around to give us enough time to get the rental car back and catch the last ferry. It turned out to be a terrific day. The ferry back to Spanish Wells was packed full when it arrived on the Eleuthera side, but we had it to ourselves riding the short distance back. The perfect end to a perfect day. So what will we do tomorrow?

Coast Guard Proposes Fees For Documentation Renewals

We have gone to the provided link and left our comments. I would urge any of our friends and followers to do the same and let them know how you feel about this fee. Our thoughts are that if indeed they plan to institute a fee, then the renewal should at least be for multiple years rather than annually. Chuck

From BoatUS...

Dear BoatU.S. Member,

Do you own a federally documented vessel? The U.S. Coast Guard is proposing to charge an annual fee of $26.00 for the renewal of certificates of documentation for recreational boats. While the Coast Guard charges to issue new certificates of documentation for boats, currently there is no charge for annual renewal.

This fee will only apply if your boat is federally documented and would be in addition to any state registration fees. For current information on federal vessel documentation, visit the United States Coast Guard Documentation Center.

We encourage you to share your thoughts with the Coast Guard on this proposal before May 3rd, 2013, by going to http://www.regulations.gov/#!docketDeta ... -2010-0990

Please forward this email to fellow boaters with documented vessels. If you have any additional questions, please contact BoatU.S. Government Affairs at GovtAffairs@BoatUS.com.

Exumas To Eleuthera

There are just too many wonderful places to stop and experience in the Exumas to see them all in one season, given our limitations. Many will have to be left for the next time. From the Exumas, our next destination was Eleuthera. There are several ways to get there, but most cruisers will exit through the cuts at Warderick Wells or the Normans/Highbourne Cay area. We chose Warderick Wells because the cut is wide, deep and there are no reefs or obstacles to navigate around. Beach House exited the cut at 9:30 am, heading for Cape Eleuthera, and from there we would decide later. We had a good weather window for the crossing, but a strong front was due to arrive in a couple of days. A harbor with good, all around protection was an important consideration once again. It just seems like this entire trip has been weather driven for the most part. That makes it hard to really enjoy the experience.

The crossing was smooth with light winds at around 10 knots and small seas. By 2:00 pm we arrived at Cape Eleuthera just off the marina. We didn't plan to stop, but we had been there years before when it was closed and you could just pull in and tie up. The entrance is open to the west and that is where some of the stronger winds would be coming from later in the week. We imagined that a pretty good surge could work into the marina and make it uncomfortable. We pressed on and considered going to Rock Sound for the next few days. But as usual, the weather forecast seemed to be changing and the strong winds were actually coming later. The forecast also looked good for a crossing to the Abacos in three days so we made a spot decision to keep on going and try for Spanish Wells the next day. If the forecast changed again, we could always duck into Hatchet Bay, which is a very protected harbor.

A quick check of the charts showed our best anchorage for the night would be around Ten Bay. We had been there before. It's a beautiful spot with a great beach. It seemed that the wind would be shifting more to the north so we chose to stop for the night at South Palmetto Point with good northerly protection from the nearby Pineapple Cays. We dropped the hook just off the beach at 5:20 in the afternoon and settled in after a long day. The setting was perfect and the sunset spectacular. During the night the winds died and the next morning we woke to smooth, clear seas that made the bottom look like we were in inches instead of feet of water.

Our mornings begin at around 6:30, gathering weather information for the current day and upcoming week. Our weather window was still holding so we needed to be in the Spanish Wells/ Royal Island area to stage for a crossing in the next two days. By 7:40 am, we were once again underway in flat seas and hazy skies. An important transit for us would be Current Cut, about 10 miles south of Spanish Wells. The cut can be difficult, and under certain conditions, impassable. The current can run as high as 5 knots, and slower boats, like ours, can have a difficult time. Ideally, the cut should be done at slack water. But when is it ever ideal? A little after 1:00 pm, we arrived at the cut. The tides were incoming, and slack water had been about an hour and a half earlier. There was a fishing trawler anchored right in the old channel that approaches the cut straight in from the Bight, but they would not answer the radio.

There is another approach, which for us proved to be better. Picking a spot just southwest of the cut near Current Island, we used a channel that parallels the island very close to shore until we were abeam of the cut, then turned into it. This kept the boat out of the strong current for as long as possible. The channel is a little tricky with shallows and patch reefs on both side. But the deeper water is visible. And wouldn't you know it, the wind was picking up and making for a bouncy ride just before we entered the cut. Once we entered the deeper water of the cut, the current grabbed us in earnest. We turned the bow toward the north before we could be swept too far south and powered the boat up to try and compensate for the current. There were whirlpools and eddies all around us. Even at increased throttle, once Beach House was committed to the cut, our forward speed dropped down from 7 1/2 knots to about 3 knots. It was a long, slow trip for such a short distance. Even once we were out the other side, the currents were still strong until well clear of the cut. Once the boat was back up to speed, we gave a big sigh of relief.

With the wind continuing to increase from the south and east, Spanish Wells became the choice for our destination at days end. It was decided that the anchorage at Royal Island would probably be too rolly with winds from this direction. At about 2:00 pm, we entered the south channel into Spanish Wells. It had been many years since we had been there last so we were looking forward to our visit. Spanish Wells is one of those Bahamas destinations where you can find any service, supply or distraction you might be looking for. By now, the forecast 10 knot winds were blowing 15 to 20 knots so it was nice to be somewhere secure. But how long would we need to stay?

More Photos Of Our Bahamas Cruise

Many of you have asked us to post more photos of our Bahamas cruise. The blog postings using the internet in the Bahamas can be problematic but for more great photos you can visit our Facebook page. If you like what you see, remember to click the Like button. Leave a comment too and let us know what you think and what you would like to see. Enjoy. Chuck and Susan

Exuma Cays

The Exuma Cays may well be one of the most beautiful cruising grounds we have ever experienced. Beginning with Sail Rocks and Ship Channel Cay, just slightly south and east of Nassau, the Exumas stretch down to Great and Little Exuma to the southwest. The Exumas offer anything from remote anchorages, to small settlements, to busy towns like Georgetown. Many cays offer fabulous beaches, unusual wildlife and some of the greatest anchorages you may ever experience. It has been a great joy to be able to experience this wonderful cruising ground once again as we continue our research for the next edition in our Great Book Of Anchorages series, the Bahamas Edition. Someone pointed out to us that there is just no way we can call this work, so we won't try.

The road most traveled by a majority of cruisers is to head south from Nassau, across the Yellow Banks and then southwest to Allans Cay. The anchorage is between Allans and Leaf Cay. The currents here are strong so either two anchors are needed or you need an anchor that will reset well in reversing conditions. Dinghy in to Leaf Cay and say hello to the native iguanas. When seas are up in Exuma Sound, the deep water side of the Exumas, a surge can work into the anchorage that can make it uncomfortable. Deeper draft boats may have to anchor in the cut at the south end of Leaf Cay or off the west side of the Cays if there is no westerly component to the wind. From Allans it's just a short hop to Highbourne Cay if a marina is needed. There are some supplies sold at Highbourne. Be aware that a strong surge can work in around to the west side of Highbourne and make this a very uncomfortable anchorage.


There are many, many, opportunities for some wonderful stops south of Highbourne Cay. Normans Cay is another very popular stop with some good snorkeling. There is a wrecked drug lord's plane in the lagoon, but not much of it is left. We visited when a good portion of the plane was intact and the old mansion was still in fair shape. But it's still fun for a day or two. There is a very good anchorage on the west side of Norman's in prevailing winds. There is a beach bar on Normans that has a very good cheeseburger in paradise. From Normans, the anchorages at Shroud Cay and Hawksbill Cay are indescribable. The crystal clear water, outstanding snorkeling and white beaches are all must visits.

Wax Cay marks the northern boundary of the Exuma Land and Sea Park. The Park is a no-take zone and that means, fish, shells, coral or ANYTHING. Stiff fines can be levied if you're caught with anything and the Park Wardens are always on the lookout. We were a bit disappointed on our recent visit. We almost felt like we were back in south Florida in one of the areas that require you to take a mooring. The north anchorage has always had moorings and we have used them in the past. But recently moorings have been added in one of the other popular areas where boats would often anchor (near Emerald Rock). We can understand moorings to protect the coral in the park, but this new area has nothing more than a sandy bottom. There are buoys installed as markers and all boats must anchor west of these marker buoys. As a result, you are forced to anchor farther out in much more exposed areas, or take a mooring. The moorings are not free and we felt we were being punished for not taking one since we were also told that the Park would not share their paid wifi with us unless we took a mooring. We have never experienced this in the Bahamas anywhere else. But we did enjoy our time there, and it's still one of the most beautiful cruising areas anywhere. The upside is the mooring fees are used to pay park employees and upkeep of the park. Park boundaries extend south to about Little Bell Island and Conch Cut.

Boats with deeper drafts can continue south on the banks, and the next popular stop is the Sampson and Staniel Cay area. There is a marina at Sampson with a restaurant that is by reservation only. You need to tell them what you want to eat and how many people there will be so they'll know what to cook. The marina also sells fuel if it's available. It is all expensive. Everyone's favorite is Staniel Cay and Big Majors Spot. Big Majors is where you can find the famous Pig Beach. The pigs will see you coming in your dinghy and swim out to meet you. They expect something to eat and can get quite aggressive at times. It is indeed a sight to see and one you will always remember. Staniel Cay is a good spot to hang out for a while. The Yacht Club offers fuel, water at a price, and dockage if you need it. Ashore there is a restaurant, bakery and two small grocery stores. Snorkeling is excellent, especially at the Grotto where one of the James Bond movies, "Thunderball," was filmed.

Farther south is one of our favorite settlements, Black Point. This is one of the largest settlement in the Exumas second only to Georgetown. The settlement is typical of the friendly Bahamas experience we have encountered everywhere we have been. There is a government dock where the supply boat lands and this is the best spot in which to anchor. Be sure and leave enough room for the supply boat; it's rather large. There is a community dock to land the dinghy. The settlement has a modern laundry, a cafe, several small groceries and free wifi at the cafe or near the church. You can often find ladies working their magic making baskets and all sorts of wares from straw and palm fronds. Don't bypass Black Point and plan to stay a while. From Black Point, Farmers Cay is another popular stop. There are occasionally festivals for special events at Farmers and there is a restaurant there, but we have never felt is was one of our must see places.

For deeper draft boats, Galliot Cut is the last opportunity to transit off the banks to the deep waters of the Exuma Sound. It's wise to keep a good eye on the weather before heading into the Sound; winds and seas can make for an uncomfortable trip. Under the wrong conditions, a rage can build in all the cuts and you can suddenly find yourself in some heavy weather with no place to go. For shoal-draft boats like Beach House, you can carry on farther south as far as Rat Cay Cut and stay in the more protected waters. All of the cuts in the Exumas can have strong currents depending on which way the tide is flowing. These currents need to be respected and planned for anytime you enter or exit the cuts. If a strong wind is opposing the currents, the cuts can become impassable.

From Galliot Cut, the entrance at Elizabeth Harbor is about 34 miles. It's straightforward, and since the Sound is deep, there are no hazards to worry about as long as you stay a short distance off the outlying cays. The west entrance to the harbor is wide but can get very rough if winds and waves have been building. The Conch Cay light is obvious, but the transit of the harbor is not straightforward. Once off the Sound and moving toward the inner harbor, there are a number of shoals and coral heads to be avoided. A good set of charts, like Wavey Line, and close study BEFORE you get there will take some of the stress away. You will snake your way through until reaching the main anchorage area off Volleyball Beach or off the town. For many boaters, Georgetown is the Destination for the winter, and many boats come here year after year, spend months, and then return to their home countries. Which is unfortunate, since they bypass some really wonderful cruising grounds.

Georgetown is indeed a cruising mecca. The boaters are always planning events, pot lucks on the beach, volleyball tournaments, fishing excursions, dinghy raft-ups and every imaginable reason for a get-together. Any kind of boating service is available, and supplies can either be easily found or fairly easily shipped in from the U.S. At least easy from Bahamas standards. The town is the largest settlement in the Exumas and has a variety of shops and restaurants and a well-stocked grocery store, Exuma Market. The market has a very large dinghy dock and it can get crowded. There is a water faucet on the dinghy dock for filling jerry jugs and the water quality is not bad, and best of all, it's free. In town you can find banks, dive shops and hotels, and there is a good airport for flying almost anywhere you might need to go in a hurry. It's also a good place to fly in friends and relatives so they can come and enjoy the Bahamas with you. There is an on-again, off-again marina that sells fuel and water and offers dockage when it's open. Out of town, there is a haul-out facility for repairs and bottom painting. Making preparations to return home is easy and one of the better locations. We always have to be careful when we go to Georgetown. It's one of those harbors that swallows your anchor and makes it very difficult to pull up and leave. This is the terminus where most boaters turn around to head north again. Beyond is the out-islands where most cruisers seldom go - the more remote parts of the Bahamas.

For more general information on cruising the Bahamas, be sure to read our these posts...
What Cruisers Want To Know About The Bahamas, and
What Do You Do Once Your In The Bahamas?

Or go to the Categories listing on the left column and click on Bahamas.

Nassau To Warderick Wells, Exuma

It felt good to finally leave Nassau. The forecast wasn't great, but if we didn't move, we would be in Nassau for another week. We topped up the fuel tanks at Nassau Harbor Club because the diesel was only $5.74 a gallon, pretty good for Bahamas prices. It was about 9:30 AM and the sun was just beginning to get high enough for us to use eyeball navigation around the many patch reefs at the east end of the harbor, but more importantly, to navigate the numerous coral heads we would encounter crossing the Yellow Banks. Some of these heads are only a few feet below the surface and could do serious damage to a prop. With the sun overhead, clear skies and reasonably flat seas, they are easy to pick out. They appear as a bark blob in the water surrounded by white sand. There are many of these on the section known as the Yellow Banks, only a short distance from Nassau. The conditions weren't perfect - there were some clouds and it was a bit choppy, but all in all, doable. Once we reached Porgy Rock, it was a straight line to our destination at Highbourne Cay.

The good news was that the winds were out of the north at 10 to 15, and the wind and waves would be on our stern. The coral heads were easy to pick out and once we cleared the Yellow Banks, they were much fewer and still easy to spot. The rest of the day went well up until we made the turn off the banks toward Highbourne Cay. This put wind and swells right on our beam and we rolled all the way in until we cleared a shallow bar near Highbourne that knocked down the seas. Little did we guess that this would be a preview of things to come. Our first night at anchor in the Exumas would be one that we wouldn't soon forget.

Our first big surprise arriving at Highbourne was the number of megayachts at anchor. There were about 8 or 9 and we aren't talking about just big boats. Some were well over 100 feet and they all carried a fleet of jet skies and at least one large center console tender with about 750 horsepower total outboards on the back. The jetskis ran through the anchorage at full speed all afternoon and the tenders ran back and forth from the megayachts to the beach, at full throttle, with little regard for anyone else there. Highbourne Cay is a private cay and the beaches were serving as party destinations for the folks on the megayachts. As we approached Highbourne, a large megayacht named DreaMER almost ran us down and refused to respond on the radio. We had to make some serious avoidance maneuvers. It was not a pleasant experience and it was soon to get worse.

The parties went on well into the night but soon after we went to bed, the surge that works its way around the cay began to roll all of the boats in the anchorage. And we're not talking about a gentle roll. We're talking about a "throw things off the shelves and counters" roll. It lasted all night and into the morning until we hauled up the anchor and got out of there fast. This rates up there with the worst anchorage in which we have ever spent the night. The only other one that might have been worse, and only slightly, was behind the reef on the coast of Mexico at Tulum. No one got much sleep and at times it seemed that the flybridge might get ejected from the boat. We were very grateful to be out as early as possible and head south to Warderick Wells.

It was surprising to see all of the boats heading both north and south on the banks. At one time we counted about 15 sailboats heading north as we continued to move south. The winds and seas were much more pleasant than the day before and it was a great transit. Powerboats were also well represented. We felt right at home as some of the vessels were yelling at others on the radio about the wakes they were throwing up as they passed. For a moment it was like being back in South Florida. At 1:15 PM we dropped the anchor in the clear waters just south of Warderick Wells in the Exuma Land and Sea Park. There is a mooring field here but we chose to anchor just beyond the moorings. It has been a long time since we have been here and we looked forward to spending some quality time.

There have been a lot of changes since our last visit to the Park on our sailboat Sea Trek. But some things are just the same. You never forget the view from the ranger station as you look down on the moorings in the channel at the north end. It's absolutely spectacular and no matter how many times you have seen it, there is still the same "wow" factor. We felt like we had finally arrived.