Leaking Window Repair Update

I thought I would repost this and bring things up to date. In recent weeks, the windows that were repaired previously began leaking even worse than before we had the work done. I decided to fall back on the old saying, "If you want something done right, you need to do it yourself." So here is the history and an update of what we have done to make it right.

 A common issue with the Marine Trader is leaky windows. The previous owner of Beach House had the aft cabin windows removed, as well as the interior wood inside the cabin above the berths. New interior wood was installed, and the old windows and exterior frames were put back in place. But for some odd reason, the windows went back in and the exterior frames had a gap of at least a half inch between the frame and the window that was at least a half inch deep. A perfect water catcher and retainer.

We did a temporary repair early on because we knew we would be relocating the boat and we just did not want to deal with water leaks. We used Sikaflex caulking to fill in the space and seal everything. This worked for quite a while. This spring we decided that we needed a more permanent solution, but our work schedules really limit the time we have to work on these projects. There is a woodworker on site at Oak Harbor Marina where we are docked and after some recommendations from other boaters, we had him look at the frames and give us an estimate. He felt the repairs should be fairly simple, but this is after all a boat. We wanted the frames removed and a filler piece of teak epoxied onto the frames to fill the gap and to be sanded and formed to match the curves of the frames.

The removal process is always the most difficult part because you just never know if things will come apart in one piece of hundreds of pieces. We were prepared to build new frames if the old ones did not survive the removal process. The most time consuming part was removing the Sikaflex filler we so generously used for the temporary repair. Once this was accomplished, the wood frames came off fairly easily and, with one exception, in one piece. The aft facing frame did come off in four pieces, but none were broken so reconstructing them was not a big deal. The filler pieces were epoxied into place and fitted to both the frame and the gap between the windows. After dry-fitting showed everything looked good, it was time to re-install them.

One big concern was that by removing all three frames, we left open the possibility that we would have a leak somewhere that we did not have before. (That is exactly what happened.) The big question was, what would we use to seal the glass, fiberglass and wood that would be compatible with all three and allow for the difference in expansion and contraction between three different surfaces. Longevity was also an important consideration. From past experience doing lots of these projects on Sea Trek, we felt comfortable using Dow Corning 795 Construction Sealant to re-bed everything. We have never had anything leak that we have used this product on and that included, glass, Plexiglas, metal, wood, fiberglass and just about anything else. We also know that the black is UV resistant but the white is not, so black it was. The not so secret part of this is to be sure to use LOTS of sealant. It needs to fill every space and ooze out from every edge. Taping around the wood and cabin sides with blue tape also makes the clean up easier and gives a good finished edge.

The results looked great, however, as fate would have it, after everything had cured and we did a test with a water hose for leaks, we did find a couple of small leaks at both side windows. There must have been some spots where the sealant missed, and it does not take much. The tech was right back over to the boat, removed the frame, cleaned everything up and re-installed it with lots and lots of sealant. Just a few weeks later, we had a rain storm and both side windows leaked, and the leaks were worse than they had been prior to the repairs. We discussed this with the fellow that did the work and his response was, "gee, I don't know how that could have happened."

This time, I decided I would get this done right, do it myself, and never have to deal with it again. So once again, the outer frames were removed and inspection showed that indeed enough sealant had not been used to fill all of the openings behind the frames. I instructed the tech to NOT just caulk the edges of the frames, but to fill the space entirely between the glass and the frame. Well, even after doing it twice, he only caulked around the edges of the frames, leaving large gaps not bedded. I decide at that point, I would redo the entire area around the windows so no matter what happened with the sealant, these windows would never leak again.

Once the frame was off, all of the old bedding compounds needed to be removed, and the area around the windows had to be thoroughly cleaned, sanded and prepped. This took a lot of scraping and digging, since the integrity of the repair depended on the surface being free of old sealants. This left an uneven gap around the opening that exposed the inner core material and would allow water to enter the boat through the core should it leak. This would not do. The glass also had to be removed and,of course, it broke during the process.

The next step was to tape off around the exterior opening and the interior frame. I intentionally left the interior frame in place to be part of the improved repair. The gap between the outer fiberglass and the interior wood was filled in and leveled using West System Six10, a relatively new product from West System. It is designed to fill gaps and be fast-setting. It is a thickened epoxy that comes in a tube and mixes itself as it passes through the mixer tip. It is thick enough that it will not run into gaps and will allow you to tool the material to a smooth, even surface. It has a working time of about 42 minutes, and once it starts to kick, it sets quickly. It is easy to work with using a standard caulking gun. The only disappointment is that at over $20.00 per tube, the tube is only half full, so it does not go a long way. It took three tubes for each window. Once the Six10 had set up, the surface had to be washed down with plain water and a 3M pad. West System of any type will leave an amine blush on the surface after it dries and nothing will stick to it if the blush is not removed. No solvent will take it off, but plain water will. Next, the surfaces received a complete sanding using 60 grit sandpaper and using my new Fein Multimaster

tool. I really like this tool and it made this entire job much easier.

After the water wipe down and drying, my next step was to add a two inch strip of fiberglass cloth to cover both the inside edges of the interior frame, where the glass will attach, and the edges of the opening that had been filled with West System. We used West System epoxy for this also, wetting down the area the cloth would cover, then wetting down the cloth itself with epoxy. After carefully placing the cloth, it was smoothed out and any air worked out from underneath. The cloth would provide an additional barrier to water and would also keep the inner wood, the core material and the outer fiberglass from separating. The cloth effectively added a fiberglass edge around the inside frame to which the window would be attached.

Once again, after the epoxy had set for 24 hours, the washing and sanding process was done all over. This time to assure bonding of the bedding compound. The new windows were made at a local glass shop, using templates I made from heavy cardboard. A test fit showed they were perfect. The glass company also gave me small strips of a soft vinyl material to place around the glass to cushion it and to give me proper spacing. We gave a lot of consideration to what we would use to bed the glass itself. The general consensus from all of the glass companies was to use a marine grade silicone. So we decided to use a brand name and settled on 3M clear silicone. The silicone was placed around the edges of the glass and then the outside frames were screwed into place to hold the glass until the silicone could dry.

The silicone on the glass was allowed to dry for 24 hours and then the outer frame was removed. An inspection showed that the glass was solidly in place and completely sealed, not allowing any way for water to get to the inside. At this point, we wanted the window to be completely leak free and totally waterproof, even if we did not install the outer frame. A test with the hose proved we had accomplished just that. The next step was to re-bed and install the outer frame.

Once again, Dow 795 Sealant was used for the final bedding. The window itself and the outside cabin sides were taped with easy release blue tape to make clean up easier and to keep the finished edges looking professional. We finished this step as if the outer frame still had to hold out moisture. The space between the window and the outer frame was filled with sealant so that once the outer frame was screwed back in place, the sealant oozed out of every possible edge. Although this was not necessary, it was added insurance and made us feel certain that this would never be a problem again. Finally, the screw holes were plugged and the frames sanded so that the proper coats of Cetol could be brushed on, and our repairs were finally completed.

We have had a couple of really hard rains in afternoon thunderstorms with no leaks. Ultimately, time will tell if our repairs will meet our expectations. But we believe this is one issue that will not rear its ugly head again. Unfortunately, we have spent a fair amount of money to have the repairs done by someone else and the chance of getting any of it back is slim. I suppose the lesson is, we should do the work ourselves even if it means taking longer to get it done and giving up our weekends. Now to move on to the next project...

Cooking Aboard – Tips Tricks and Recipes by Susan

You would think after living aboard for 18 years, I would know all of the tricks to cooking aboard. I only know what worked for us, and maybe some of my ideas and tips will work for you, too.

   

We started out on a 40 foot sailboat with a large galley and a lot of storage. Whether you are planning for a long trip of many months or a week on the river or bay, you will need to buy provisions for the boat. We have done both kinds of trips.

  

For long trips, I cram every space available with items of food. After our first trip through the Bahamas, I realized we didn’t eat any differently, really, than we did at home. Those cans of asparagus wound up being taken to a potluck in Exuma Land and Sea Park after being in a locker for 6 months. I would like to tell you that we ate healthy every day – beans, rice, fresh greens – but we didn’t. I have a spouse who eats only potatoes, meats/fish and a few isolated vegetables. We ate healthier than we would have at home without access to processed foods, but still pretty much ate the same. I say all of that to say, don’t stock up on things you think you might eat. It is a waste of money and space. Unless you plan on overhauling your diet – many of us probably should – buy what you know you will eat.

  

The next consideration is storage of the food. You do not want to bring cardboard on to your boat. It may look innocent enough now, but critters lay their eggs in cardboard and in no time, you will have them on board. You should also bring items such as soda and beer on board separately after you have isolated it from the cardboard case boxes and looked around each six-pack for critters hiding between the cans. It is easier to do that than chasing them around the boat at 3 a.m. (Do I sound like I’m speaking from personal experience? I am!)

A second and more important factor is that you will need to dispose of that cardboard at some point when it may not convenient. Do it at the dock when you can take it to the recycling center. If you need directions off of the box, cut off just that small section, and put the contents and the little piece of cardboard in a sealable plastic bag or plastic jar with a lid. (If using a jar, place a bay leaf in the jar and plastic wrap around the top of the jar to seal it and keep out bugs.)

With regard to cans, mark what they contain with a permanent marker on the top of the can, and then stack them neatly in crates or cupboards. You will be able to see what they are from the top, and, if the label comes off for whatever reason, you won’t have to guess what is inside.

Those green bags for storing veggies and fruit really do work, either in the fridge or somewhere cool on the boat. They increase the life of the food three- or four-fold. Hanging bags for breads, snacks and cookies are also very handy to keep that delicate stuff from getting flattened when your boat is heeling or rolling. When you put meat in the freezer, wrap portions separately in plastic wrap first, then put like meats in a large resealable bag to help keep them from getting freezer burnt. Layer your freezer with what you plan to use first on the top.

Now comes the cooking part. Unless you have a ton of storage, and endless amounts of power, you will want to leave those crock pots, bread makers, blenders, etc., in your storage locker or give them to friends. They take up a bunch of room and use more power than you will likely want to spare. Substitute them with a pressure cooker, some good bread pans and a small hand operated chopper.

One of my favorite cooking tools aboard is the grill mounted to the stern rail. There isn’t one piece of meat that doesn’t taste better cooked on the grill. It is also handy for grilling veggies. On hot days when you don’t want to heat up the boat, put your whole dinner in some lightly greased foil with some liquid, fold it up and grill it on the lowest setting. Usually, I separate the meat from the veggies. Use herbs, butter, cooking wine - whatever will enhance the foods’ flavor.

We have always had a microwave on board, but only use it for heating up leftovers (2-3 minutes tops), baked potatoes, quick steaming veggies and that occasional bag of popcorn. After roasting everyone inside the boat while cooking in the oven, we found that many things can be cooked on top of the stove. My more pressing reason for doing that now, since we live on a 34-foot trawler with much less storage space, is that the oven is used for storing roasting pans, muffin tins, etc. and all of the “stuff” has to go somewhere while I’m cooking in the oven. Many things can be cooked top side. I now make roasts in large pans on top of the stove, putting the burner on the lowest setting possible. Things that need to be baked for 20-30 minutes in the oven can be cooked in a frying pan with a lid for 10-15 minutes on top of the stove. The boats heats up less, you use less fuel/propane and they are done more quickly. Pressure cookers do the same thing a crock pot does much more quickly.

I haven’t tried baking bread on the stove top, so that may be the exception. I know that there are pressure cooker bread recipes, however. On the subject of bread, I acquired a starter years ago and have been baking our bread ever since. This frees you up if you want to be out for long stretches and can’t live without bread. Bread is also the best ice-breaker on the planet. You will make fast friends if you show up at a potluck with fresh baked bread or give a loaf as a thank you.

Jumping back to storage for a minute, you do not need to refrigerate ketchup, mustard, many salad dressings, soy sauce, etc. It takes up too much room in your fridge and really doesn’t need it. Those same sauces are also a nice touch to have to vary the flavor of your meals. There are many marinades on the market that can give you a garlic lime accent, teriyaki and every kind of barbeque sauce imaginable.

Don’t forget treats. Hide something yummy in a cupboard on board to find when the crew needs a morale booster. A bag of snack size candy bars will raise spirits when it has been raining for three days. If the weather is chilly and you purposely want to heat up the boat, stash brownie mix on board so you can bake some while out on the hook. Nothing will cheer up your crew like the smell of brownies baking.

Cooking tips and tricks definitely are needed on a boat. You don’t have the room and power you have in a house, but you can still cook and make enjoyable meals.

Banana Chocolate Chip Muffins

These muffins are to die for. I don’t know that I’ve ever met anyone that didn’t like them.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees, line muffin tin with 12 paper baking cups:
¼ cup melted butter
1 cup sugar, ½ white, ½ brown
Cream butter in sugar in a bowl

Add 1 beaten egg, 2 very ripe bananas and 2 teaspoons of cider vinegar.
Add 1 cup of self-rising flour or 1 cup regular flour and ½ teaspoon of baking soda and 1/8 teaspoon of salt. I also frequently substitute ½ cup of white flour for whole wheat, which gives the muffins a nice texture.
Finally, add 1/2 cup of semi-sweet chocolate chips to the batter.

Pour into mixture into muffin baking cups and bake for 15-20 or until tops begin to brown. Let cool a bit before attempting to pull the paper off of the muffins, if you can stand to wait!The batter is so good, you may not wind up with 12 muffins.

Maryland Crab Soup

1-12 ounce can beef broth
1-8 ounce can tomato sauce
2 cups mixed vegetables and potatoes
8 ounces of crab meat
1 Tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
2 Tablespoons Old Bay or more to taste

Pour a 14 ounce can of beef broth in a large saucepan or use same amount of water and 2 bullion cubes. Add frozen mixed vegetables or chopped fresh. As the veggies start to become tender, add the remaining ingredients. Simmer for another 15 to 20 minutes and serve hot. 

This easy recipe can be made with fresh ingredients or with all canned if you haven’t been to a store for awhile. Either way, it will taste great. Serve it with whole grain bread and butter, and it is a complete meal for 2. You will also have a bowl leftover for lunch the next day.

Savory Shrimp

1 pound of peeled and de-veined shrimp
2 Tablespoons butter
2 Tablespoons olive oil
2 Tablespoons key lime juice
2 Tablespoons barbecue sauce
¼ teaspoon paprika
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper
½ teaspoon minced garlic
1 bay leaf
1 spring fresh rosemary

Add all ingredients except shrimp to a large saucepan and simmer. When it starts to bubble, add the shrimp and cook until just cooked. These shrimp have a nice kick to them and taste great served over a bed of brown rice with a salad on the side. You should have enough leftover for one portion. I love leftovers. It saves having to cook another entire meal each day. Save the crab soup and shrimp leftovers and flip a coin to see who gets what!

Cooking on a boat does not always have to be like camping out. Enjoy.

Coming Soon

Wow, I just looked at the blog and realized that we have not made any new postings for a month. That has to be a record for us, but not one we are proud of. We have a large project we are finishing and will post it, as well as an interesting post on several smaller projects. We are trying to get the boat work done and update all six Editions of the Waterway Guide, so the web site has suffered. Add to that, the occasional house sitting job we have done and time really flies. I hate when we are in our working and filling the cruising kitty mode. As much as I complain while working on the boat, it sure beats sitting in an office all day. The down side of not sitting in an office all day is, the money goes out and out and out, but seldom comes in. We have had some magazine articles published in Good Old Boat, Sail Magazine, MarinaLife Magazine, and Susan did a cooking piece for Nor' Easter. Just writing about all of that made me feel tired. We will get some new stuff on the site this weekend. Thanks for everyones patience and don't give up on us.

Hurricane Preparations For The 2010 Season

Have you ever had the experience of sitting out a hurricane on your boat? Have you had to leave your boat and wait out a storm, wondering if it would survive? We have done both and neither are experiences we want to go through again. Sitting on board, listening to the wind howling in the rigging and climbing on deck during pelting rain just to adjust dock lines and anchor rode is not our idea of cruising fun, and the anxiety factor is off the charts. Sitting in a hotel room hundreds of miles away, not knowing if the boat made it through or if your next contact is the insurance company. June is just the beginning of the hurricane season, but it is also a good time to get yourself and your boat prepared. With our former boat Sea Trek, we have been through fifteen named storms, twelve of them hurricanes. So we do have some first hand knowledge for preparing and we thought this a good time to share our experiences.

Given a choice, our preferred place to have the boat ride out a storm would be in a well protected, open anchorage, shielded from wind and wave action. In our opinion, the place you would most likely expect to have the boat damaged is in a slip. It is almost impossible to adjust dock lines to compensate for storm surge and not have lines so long that the boat could be slammed against the dock and pilings. During hurricane Georges, in the Florida Keys, we tied the boat up in the middle of the basin of the marina, with an anchor out at the bow and several long lines ashore. After the storm passed, we were the only boat in the marina undamaged to some extent. We rode out hurricane Floyd anchored in the Wye River in the Chesapeake and the wind howled for two days. We were at the head of the river so there was very little wave action and since we are always confident of our ground tackle, we were never concerned about the anchor dragging. We did have two anchors set, and having the proper anchors and rode are very important to your success and the boats safety. One of our biggest concerns is other boats dragging or breaking loose and fouling our anchor. We look for safe harbor in the most remote spot we can find, far away from where the other crowds gather. In Belhaven, NC we rode out hurricane Irene in a large creek with just two other boats while another smaller and narrower creek just north of us had twenty or more boats sheltered there.

If a good safe harbor is not available nearby, our next alternative is to haul out the boat. In some cases your insurance policy may pay part or all of the haul out costs if they offer this option and you have taken advantage of that option. We also look at the location of the marina and the professionalism of the yard before we make the call. And of course if you are in an area prone to hurricanes, you will need to make arrangements well in advance. Some marinas will charge to put you on their haul out list. One of the downside of this is, the marina will begin hauling for a storm well in advance because of all of the work involved and they will also have to prepare their facility. If they notify you a week in advance of the storm that you must get the boat to the yard for haul out, the storm track can change considerably in a weeks time. We have been in these situations and based on our experience decided not to haul that early and made the right call. The storm took another track and missed the area completely. You have to pay for the haul out whether the storm comes or not. This is a tough judgment call and everyone has to do what they feel is right.

Some times you will just need to leave the boat and go. As a matter of fact, in most cases this is what you will need to do. As much time and emotions as we have invested in our boats, the reality is that they are just a thing. And things can be replaced but lives can not. It is foolish to try and ride out a storm on a boat when safer alternatives are available. So you prepare the boat as best you can and you seek shelter ashore. If you have a home or just seek a safe public shelter, there is much preparation that needs to be done in this case also.

• You need to have a plan.Where will you go, and will your family need to meet you there? Be sure you have phone number handy for friends, family members, doctors, and any others you feel will be important, and possible contacts you might need for up to a week after the storm. If your phone will allow you to send text messages, they sometimes will get out when a call will not. Be sure you know your evacuation routes if needed and cars are fuel up and stocked for emergencies. Is your emergency kit accessable to you in a hurry? Make sure family members understand what circumstances determine whether you stay for a storm or evacuate. The local authorities might require a mandatory evacuation.
•  Prepare an emergency kit. You can easily buy everything you need at your local storms, but the shelves might be empty just prior to the storm. So put your kit together NOW.  

You may need to survive on your own after an emergency. This means having your own food, water, and other supplies in sufficient quantity to last for at least three days. Local officials and relief workers will be on the scene after a disaster, but they cannot reach everyone immediately. You could get help in hours, or it might take days. In addition, basic services such as electricity, gas, water, sewage treatment, and telephones may be cut off for days, or even a week or longer.

Recommended Items to Include in a Basic Emergency Supply Kit:

• Water, one gallon of water per person per day for at least three days, for drinking and sanitation
• Food, at least a three-day supply of non-perishable food
• Battery-powered or hand crank radio and a NOAA Weather Radio with tone alert and extra batteries for both
• Flashlight and extra batteries
• First aid kit
• Whistle to signal for help
• Dust mask, to help filter contaminated air and plastic sheeting and duct tape to shelter-in-place
• Moist towelettes, garbage bags and plastic ties for personal sanitation
• Wrench or pliers to turn off utilities
• Can opener for food (if kit contains canned food)
• Local maps
• Cell phone with chargers, inverter or solar charger

Additional Items to Consider Adding to an Emergency Supply Kit:

• Prescription medications and glasses
• Infant formula and diapers
• Pet food and extra water for your pet
• Important family documents such as copies of insurance policies, identification and bank account records in a waterproof, portable container
• Cash or traveler's checks and change
• Emergency reference material such as a first aid book or information from www.ready.gov
• Sleeping bag or warm blanket for each person. Consider additional bedding if you live in a cold-weather climate.
• Complete change of clothing including a long sleeved shirt, long pants and sturdy shoes. Consider additional clothing if you live in a cold-weather climate.
• Household chlorine bleach and medicine dropper – When diluted nine parts water to one part bleach, bleach can be used as a disinfectant. Or in an emergency, you can use it to treat water by using 16 drops of regular household liquid bleach per gallon of water. Do not use scented, color safe or bleaches with added cleaners.
• Fire Extinguisher
• Matches in a waterproof container
• Feminine supplies and personal hygiene items
• Mess kits, paper cups, plates and plastic utensils, paper towels
• Paper and pencil
• Books, games, puzzles or other activities for children

Find out how to keep food safe during and after and emergency by visiting: http://www.foodsafety.gov/keep/

•  Stay informed through as many sources as possible. Have online sources for weather and hurricane tracking and forecasts bookmarked on your computer. Stay tuned to local weather broadcasts and national information like The Weather Channel. Power failures will be common so battery operated devices will help, just be sure you have lots and lots of batteries. Cell phones will work if land lines go down, but you will need to keep the batteries charged. A small portable generator will make a considerable difference in the days to come if there are major power outages for long periods of time. Have enough fuel for the generator to last a week and store it safely. A WORD OF CAUTION, never run one of these generators inside or in any enclosed, confined area. You could survive the storm to loose your life from carbon monoxide poisoning. We have a portable Honda 2000 Generator that has been invaluable during these storm conditions on many occasions.  

We have posted on our Sea Trek site, a few occasion where we prepared the boat for less serious storms. These preparations can be used in many cases, but for major storms, additional care will be needed. You can read those posts here;
http://sea-trek.blogspot.com/search/label/04.%20Hurricane%20And%20Storm%20Prep

http://sea-trek.blogspot.com/search/label/0028.%20Dealing%20With%20Hanna It is our hope that some small piece of information here will help in getting you prepared for this coming season and we also hope that all of your preparations will be a total waste of time.

Installing A Marine Electrical Panel In A Day

Prior to purchasing Beach House, we had a thorough survey done by Bob Dulce from Hilton Head South Carolina. Bob knows the Marine Traders intimately, as he has been involved with them since the first hull was imported into the U.S. He is also an excellent and knowledgeable surveyor that understands what can happen when a survey reaches an insurance company with a lot of "recommendations." They immediately become "requirements" as soon as a clerk at the insurance company sees them. So items that were not major, but needed attention at some point, were made known to us during the survey, but did not find their way on to the final report. One of those items was an electrical panel that a previous owner had installed in the hanging locker for the forward cabin. As was the practice during the late 70s and early 80s, a household electrical panel had been installed to service the added air-conditioner, some 120-volt lights and an added outlet in the engine compartment. The panel was in good shape and wired correctly so there was no urgency to replace it immediately. So it went on our to-do list. In time, it finally rose to the top of the list, and the weather cooperated so that neither the heat or the air-conditioning would be needed for an entire weekend--plenty of time to complete the project. So it began.

The first item of business was to find the appropriate spot to mount the panel. We had considered putting the new one back inside the locker where the old panel had been. It was out of the way and the wiring was already there, a tempting prospect. But it was also a pain having to go in the locker behind all of the hanging clothes, we could not see to monitor the gauges and breakers, and we did not like having clothes hanging right next to an electrical panel. Outside the locker did not leave a lot of options. The panel needed to be accessible, yet not in an area where it could get bumped and the breakers accidentally turned off. At first glance, we ruled out anywhere on the front of the lower helm station. But after some study, we decided that this would actually be a good spot since we had instant access, and by putting it high enough and slightly behind the wheel, we would have to try very, very hard to bump it or come in contact with the panel so as to be a problem.

The next step was to cut the hole to fit the connections and breakers that stick out from the back of the panel. We chose the Blue Seas panel because we knew from past experience it was of good quality. They provide a template with the panel to make cutting the hole easier. An important issue is to be sure there are no wires, plumbing or anything else that will interfere with the mounting on the back side of the bulkhead. We used the template on the inside to determine where the panel would be mounted by tracing it on the inside wall, then drilling small holes in the corners. We could then transfer the template to the front of the bulkhead by using the small holes as a guide. The entire area where the panel was to be mounted is covered with easy release blue tape, and then the template is drawn on the tape with a fine tip marker. I like to drill holes in the corners with either a small hole saw of drill bit large enough to accept the blade for my jigsaw. Once this is finished, the hole is carefully cut for the panel and all of the sawdust vacuumed. In addition to replacing the panel, we were also replacing the shore panel outlet mounted on the outside cabin side. The old outlet was plastic, quite old and beginning to deteriorate. This is actually what started us on this project. The new stainless outlet would match the other Marinco outlet that we had previously installed. 

The panel is put in place to be sure it will fit the cut out, and to make sure it is straight and not mounted on an angle. It is also the time to check that all of the wiring that needs to be connected will reach the panel and be clear of obstructions in the back. Any slight trimming of the cut out or a little sanding to make a better fit can be done now. 

With the hole cut and the tape removed, the holes are drilled slightly smaller than the screws that will hold the panel in place and the fitting checked one more time. There is usually lots of sawdust and debris on both sides of the bulkhead, so a good vacuuming and wipe down is in order. We usually like to take this time to sand and varnish the area around where we are doing the work to avoid taking everything apart later.

Before doing any work on the boat's electrical system, the power must be turned off at the breakers on the dock and the shore power cords disconnected. The old shore power outlet was removed, and as is our practice, the core material around the cut out is sealed with West System, and then a thickened epoxy is used to fill in uneven spots and holes. The epoxy is sanded smooth before the outlet is installed. This insures that any leaks will not work their way into the core and cause rot and other problems. Even the screw holes get an injection of epoxy.   

The new outlet is installed, and even with the gasket provided from the manufacturer, we use additional sealant to prevent water intrusion. Everyone has their favorite brand, but we like to use SikaFlex for most of these projects. Prior to re-installing the outlet, it is wired with long enough wire to reach the new panel. This panel would feed the air-conditioner, hot water heater, a few outlets and 110-volt lights. It is a fairly heavy load, so care needs to be taken in using the proper wire size. I used a #8 wire on both of our outlets to connect to the panels, even though the run from the outlet to the panel is only a couple of feet. The green earth grounds from both outlets go into our galvanic isolator and then to the panels. The hot and neutrals go directly to the main circuit breaker for each panel.

The wiring can be done with the panel in place from the back, or in some cases I prefer to connect up everything before the panel is put in place if there are not too many connections. I would add a word of caution here. Unless you have a complete understanding of the proper methods for wiring a boat, I highly recommend you hire a professional. I have been doing this for many years as a profession, so it is fairly simple for me. The wrong connections or improper installation can have catastrophic consequences. Once all of the connections are made and the panel secured in place, all of the wiring needs to be secured. We tend to use lots of wire ties and wire straps to keep everything neat, organized and from moving around, which can cause connections to come loose and wire to chafe through. 

This time, because of the time it would have taken to make some repairs to the wood and varnish the surrounding areas, we did not refinish. That will get done later. With everything in place and all connections tested to be sure they were secure and tight, it was time to connect the shore power. Our practice is to make sure everything on both panels is turned off. The dockside breaker is also turned off, and the shore power cords are plugged in at the dock and the boat. The next step is to turn on the breaker on the dock, and check the voltage meters on the panel for proper voltage. The reverse polarity lights should not be on on either. If they are, something is wrong, and the power should be turned off immediately. If all goes well and looks good, the circuit breakers on the panels should be turned on one at a time, waiting a brief moment between turning each on. Watch the voltage meter for sudden voltage drops, since this could mean a short or other problem. Watch the reverse polarity light as each breaker is turned on. If everything was done correctly, the appliances, etc. can now be switched on. This is a small, relatively simple panel, but if a larger panel with more complicated wiring and DC breakers are included, a much more comprehensive approach is needed. But if a small auxiliary panel is needed, this will get you back in business without a great deal of expense. If you are not sure of your abilities, get the advise of a professional.

US Naval Academy Commencement Week

Commencement Week for the US Naval Academy in Annapolis Maryland is a major event for both the Graduates and Midshipman at the Academy, and also for the city of Annapolis. Besides the influx of families and friends of the staff, instructors and the Midshipman, it attracts tourists from all over the United States and the rest of the world. Probably the biggest draw and most anticipated event is the flight demonstration performed by the Navy's Blue Angels precision flying squadron.

Some History

At the end of World War II, the Chief of Naval Operations, Chester W. Nimitz, ordered the formation of a flight demonstration team to keep the public interested in Naval Aviation. The Blue Angels performed their first flight demonstration less than a year later in June 1946 at their home base, Naval Air Station (NAS) Jacksonville, Florida. LCDR Roy "Butch" Voris led the team, flying the Grumman F6F Hellcat.

Two months later, on August 25, 1946, the Blue Angels transitioned to the Grumman F8F Bearcat. The 1947 team, led by LCDR Robert Clarke, introduced the now-famous "Diamond Formation."

By the end of the 1940s, the Blue Angels were flying their first jet aircraft, the Grumman F9F-2 Panther. In response to the demands placed on Naval Aviation in the Korean Conflict, the team reported to the aircraft carrier USS Princeton as the nucleus of Fighter Squadron 191 (VF-191), "Satan’s Kittens," in 1950.

The team reorganized the next year and reported to NAS Corpus Christi, Texas, where they began flying the newer and faster version of the Panther, the F9F-5. The Blue Angels remained in Corpus Christi until the winter of 1954 when they relocated to their present home base at NAS Pensacola, Florida. Here they progressed to the swept wing Grumman F9F-8 Cougar. The ensuing 20 years saw the Blue Angels transition to two more aircraft, the Grumman F11F-1 Tiger (1957) and the McDonnell Douglas F-4J Phantom II (1969).

In December 1974, the Navy Flight Demonstration Team began flying the McDonnell Douglas A-4F Skyhawk II and was reorganized into the Navy Flight Demonstration Squadron. This reorganization permitted the establishment of the first commanding officer (CDR Tony Less) instead of a flight leader, added support officers and further redefined the squadron’s mission, to enhance the recruiting effort.

On November 8, 1986, the Blue Angels completed their 40th anniversary year when they unveiled their present aircraft, the McDonnell Douglas F/A-18 Hornet, the first dual-role fighter/attack aircraft, which is still serving on the nation’s front lines of defense. In 1992, more than one million people viewed Blue Angels’ performances during a 30-day European deployment to Sweden, Finland, Russia, Romania, Bulgaria, Italy, the United Kingdom and Spain. This was the first European deployment in 19 years.

The 2009 show season brought out more than 8 million spectators. Since 1946, the Blue Angels have performed for more than 463 million fans.

                                                                             

                                                                                                                                     

Each year, LetsGoCruising Charters, our neighbor at Yacht Haven Marina, works out an agreement to charter a boat for the day and get the entire staff and their families and friends out on the water to view the Blue Angels performance. Bringing a boat into Annapolis Harbor for this event is not for the faint of heart or for inexperienced boaters. Even with the event held on a weekday instead of a weekend, the harbor is jam packed, and we often joked that one could almost walk from boat to boat and get across the harbor. This year was no exception, and the crowds were almost as spectacular as the air show. If maneuvering in very close quarters and anchoring one boat right next to the other makes you nervous, than perhaps seeing the show from shore would be your best option.

We were given a brand new sailing catamaran that had just joined the fleet and we would be the first users. The boat had lots and lots of space for the some 14 of us and all of our food, snacks and drinks. We left the dock at noon after loading the provisions and crew on board, and maneuvered the 22-foot-wide cat out of the inside corner slip, out through the close pilings of the docks to the channel and through Annapolis Harbor. Many boats had come in the day before and filled the first-come, first-served moorings in the Harbor. Quite a few more had found their favorite anchorage spots all over the Harbor. The US Coast Guard, Coast Guard Auxiliary, Maryland DNR and local law enforcement were out in force to control the crowds and maintain the established security zones. A channel through the Harbor was kept open, as well as the area immediately in front of the Naval Academy grounds.

We meandered through the crowds, weaving in and out of the anchored boats and vessels still looking for a good spot. Just getting the big cat around some of these spots without fouling someone's anchor rode was a fun exercise, but after a short time, we found a hole and dropped our hook. You really need to have a relaxed attitude for events like this, but unfortunately the folks in the boat next to us were just a bit uptight. They were not comfortable with this huge catamaran swinging close to them, and although they did not come out and say anything to us, the remarks could be easily heard on board our boat. So being the polite, considerate boaters that we are, we hauled up the anchor and moved over a bit, even though there was never any danger. Soon after we settled into our new spot, a 45-foot power boat dropped the hook right next to us, closer than we had been to the previous boat. The skipper politely asked if we were okay with where he anchored, and we simply joked that time would tell, and we could both keep an eye on each other. We even suggested that if it became a problem, we could raft up and the other skipper agreed. We did comment that before we would consider that, we would have to know what goodies they had brought with them.

It turned out to be a great time enjoyed by everyone, and our two boats were fine next to each other. (We did put the fenders over the side just in case.) The flight demonstration was spectacular, and no matter how many times we have seen the Blue Angels perform, each time is as exciting as the first. It is truly awesome how these skilled pilots can handle these incredible flying machines at speeds and maneuvers that would probably render most of us unconscious. The event is broadcast and narrated over the radio on AM WNAV Radio, and it was obvious that the entire Harbor was tuned in. It added a nice touch to the event, as details and information on the planes and pilots were presented as they flew over. Everyone had a great time, and it seemed it was over all too soon. We waited for a while to let the crowd thin out, then pulled up the anchor and headed back to the dock. We followed in a large Coast Guard buoy tender and slowly threaded our way through the still large armada of boats, which included Coast Guard and Navy vessels. By around 4:30 p.m., we had the boat back in the slip, and were packing up and unloading what we had not consumed during the afternoon. It was agreed that the day had been a great success, and we needed to find an excuse to do this again soon, especially since the boss was paying for it.

Adding Some Ventilation Inside The Boat

If there is any one thing that people object to on a boat the most, it is unwanted smells. And as a boat gets older, it develops smells from all kinds of sources. There are volumes of information out there on holding tank and head odors so we did not plan to address them with this minor modification. After almost 20 years of living aboard, we have found that certain areas of the boat can develop odors from trapped moisture and condensation in any climate and any season. A bigger problem that can surface is mold and mildew, which can generate odors and also cause health problems in some individuals. We learned all of these lessons the hard way, and the solutions were actually quite simple.

The secret to keeping a boat odor and mold and mildew free is ventilation, ventilation and, of course, ventilation. Fans, air-conditioning and heating systems all help in the ventilation department. Other things like leaving hatches or ports open, even a crack, make a big difference, and fans and solar vents make huge improvements. But none of this will help much if there are compartments all over the boat that have no way to exchange air, and allow air to flow in and out. These enclosed compartments are further insulated by cushions and mattresses, not to mention latches that keep the access closed tight. Almost all boat builders want the interior surfaces to look as smooth and unbroken as possible, but once again, this contributes to the problem.

In our current boat, and the previous one that we cruised and lived aboard for 17 years, we took some time to open up all of the interior space to air circulation. Using a hole saw, we drilled ventilation holes inside the cabinets and lockers so the air can flow from one end of the boat to another. We use 12 volt computer fans strategically placed to assist the circulation process, since they are extremely quiet, use very little power and will run continuously for long periods of time. We also use a dehumidifier that runs all year long when we are plugged into the dockside power. It is incredible how much moisture it pulls out of the air, no matter what season and no matter whether we are running the air-conditioner or the heater.

The weekend was set aside to work on the circulation issues and make some improvements. The forward v-berth was a particularly problematic area. It seemed to always be damp, and since the anchor locker was forward of it and the shower just aft of it, this was a moist environment. The dehumidifier sits in this cabin and blows the treated, dry air up into the main salon from where it sits. But we knew we needed to get the area under the v-berth circulating air and with 5 inch cushions on top, this was only going to be accomplished by cutting vents in the side. The two berths in the aft cabin are the same with the added problem of water tanks under each berth. We store lots of items, including clothing, under these berths so it needs to be dry and odor free.

In the past, we have used a variety of vent grills. Our previous boat had an all teak interior just as this one does. So naturally we use teak grills for that finished look. But aside from the fact that these teak grills are way too expensive, in my opinion, need to be varnished and the slats are easily broken if something heavy inside the locker falls against them. We have had this happen on more than one occasion.We have used stainless steel grills and they work fine, but just don't look right to us. With the areas we wanted to cover done in a dark teak, we were concerned that anything white would stand out too much. So our options were black or brown, and square or round. The brown grills we could find were either too flimsy or designed to have an air-conditioning duct attached, and stuck out too far in the back. We found a nice, sturdy, black, round grill and ordered 6 of them to do the surfaces we wanted to vent.

The installation part was very simple. We used the appropriate size hole saw to drill through in the location we wanted the vent. We measured carefully to be sure it was centered where we wanted it, and took care that there was nothing behind the spot that could be damaged by the hole saw. When a hole saw is used on teak plywood, it is best to start the hole on one side and before it goes all the way through, finish drilling from the other side. This keeps the wood from splintering as the saw passes through the opposite side. Before we attached the grills, we took the time to sand the teak around the area the vent would be placed and put a coat of varnish on the wood. This way, once we start re-varnishing the interior, these areas will be done and we won't have to remove the grills again for a long time.