From A Fabric Bimini To A Hardtop In One Day

As many of our followers know, we built our own bimini back in June of 2009. The yellow Sunbrella has kind of been a trademark for Beach House wherever we go. But the Florida sunshine and the cold damp weather in the Chesapeake has taken a toll in just a few short years. We usually get at least five years out of a bimini, but not this time. Weighing the pros and cons of building another fabric bimini or finding an alternative has suddenly come to the top of the to-do list. This is another of those unexpected repairs that we thought we would deal with in another couple of years. But it is a boat after all.

It wasn't so much that the fabric has deteriorated, it is a bit thin, but more about the staining that has appeared. At first we thought it was mold or mildew, but the stains were not the usual dark color of mildew. Instead they were a very bright shade of green. No amount of soap or cleaners would remove it and it was getting worse as time went by. The heavy spring pollen is a possible suspect, especially since it seems that the stains collect and soak to the underside with each rain. We loved our hardtop on our sailboat, Sea Trek, and seriously considered a hardtop for the flybridge. A major concern was the added weight a fiberglass top would present that high off of the deck. After some research and getting some feedback, we started looking at a product from Hard-To-Top in Michigan. The hardtop panels are a lightweight but strong polycarbonate and the frame is anodized aluminum, making it strong but not heavy. From the very beginning, Al Miller, Owner, and his crew were extremely helpful through the entire process.

 

The first step is to go online at the Hard-To-Top website and download a measuring sheet. Follow the instructions and measure carefully according to the directions. Once the measuring sheet is completed, go to the Contact Us page on the website and request a quote. We were very surprised to find the quote was not far from what it would cost to have someone build us a fabric bimini.

 

Once we were satisfied with the cost, Chris from Hard-To-Top emailed us a layout of the top for final approval. We made a couple of minor adjustments because of the irregular shape of our bimini frame and that was it. The Hard-To-Top unit attaches directly to our existing bimini frame, a feature we very much liked. Our last hardtop required us to have a separate aluminum frame built, which can be expensive. In short order, we received an email that the top was on its way. The shipping carton is very large because of the size of our top so it had to be shipped on a truck rather than UPS or FedEx. Once it arrived, we excitedly unpacked everything and began to lay out our plan for installation. The installation instructions can be downloaded in advance from the Hard-To-Top website.

All of the hardware and parts are neatly packaged for our particular installation requirements. The only tools we needed were an electric drill, tape measure, screwdriver, a 10-24 drill bit and tap, a 1/4-inch drill bit, some adjustable clamps, a ratchet and socket to install the stainless clamps and a hex wrench. We also used a piece of line (more later) to hold the panels in place so the breeze wouldn't send them flying. Susan and I estimated that we could easily complete the installation in one day, if the weather would allow it.

The polycarbonate panels come partially assembled with the aluminum channels (called E-8 in the instructions) attached on each side. The panels also have a protective plastic covering that needs to be removed before the panels are in place. The protective covering should not be left on the panels in the sun, for any period of time, or it may be difficult to remove.

Our installation required one panel to be centered on the bimini frame. Leaving the protective plastic on the underside of the panel in place, we marked the panel at the center on both ends very near to where they would sit on the front and back bimini frame. This would not mark up the finished panels. We did remove the protective plastic on the top of the panel.

Our next step was to level all of the bows - we have five - of the bimini frame to carefully mark the center of the front and back bows. We tied a piece of string tightly to the front and rear bows and used the string to align and level the others.

Once we were satisfied that everything was marked for center and as level as possible, we checked it all again just to be sure.

Susan and I easily slid the first panel in place and lined up our center marks. The panels come pre-marked, center, port 1, port 2, etc. To find the center of the bows we used a piece of flat stock taped to the bows, marked the center and used a carpenters square to find the center of the bow. This gave us the best measurement, since this is critical to getting everything straight and square with the bimini frame. Once the first panel was in place, we slid the next panel over the bows and lined it up, keeping everything centered.

The day was turning a little breezy at this point and since our top was 8 feet wide and 10 feet long, the breeze wanted to blow the panels away. That's where our adjustable clamps and piece of line came in handy. We used the adjustable clamps to gently hold one side of the center panel in place. The piece of line was used to keep the adjoining panel just snug enough so that we could start installing the stainless clamps that would hold everything in place. Before installing the adjoining panel, we applied a thin bead of the supplied caulk to entire length of the inside corner of the aluminum (E-8) extrusions.

With the hole in the supplied stainless steel clamps in the exact location on the bow where they will be installed, we used a felt tip marker to mark the location of the hole we would drill for the fasteners. It's very important that the flange on the top side of the panel is pointing toward the outside edge of the top. It is also very important that the 1/4-inch hole is drilled through that flange, to hold it all together. 

 

 

We also made sure that everything, including the polycarbonate sheets, were tight together. The hole needs to go through the aluminum and polycarbonate. The SS clamps were installed on the front and back bows and the center panel first. Once each end was clamped, we installed them on all of the other bows.

For us, probably the hardest part of the entire installation was getting the fastener nuts on the stainless clamps. We found a little assist from a pair of channel locks made the process a bit easier. The fasteners have a hex head on the bolt and a locking nut to keep them from coming loose. Once the fastener was started, we used a ratchet to tighten everything down. We were careful not to overtighten and crush the aluminum (E-8) extrusions.

We completed one side of the first center panel, and with all of those bows clamped, installed the next adjoining section. Once we had two lengths of the E-8 extrusions clamped, we were a little more comfortable with the breeze picking up. We still used the adjustable clamps to hold down the end panels until we had the front and rear stainless clamps installed.

We repeated all of these steps working out from the center to the edges of the frame. As each panel was completely installed, the top was looking better and better and we were feeling good about our decision. We were surprised at the ease that everything was going into place and at how quickly the entire process was going. We had allotted ourselves the entire weekend for the project but it was obvious it was only going to take us a day.

Any time I am installing stainless steel fasteners into aluminum, I coat the threads of the fasteners with a product called Tef-Gel. There are other similar products, but I much prefer the Tef-Gel and have been using it for years. In a boating environment, corrosion between stainless fasteners and aluminum can happen very quickly and eventually weld the fastener to the aluminum, making removal almost impossible and includes the potential for failure. The Tef-Gel inserts itself as a barrier to prevent the corrosion and makes removal easy. All of the fasteners in the hardtop received this treatment.

On the outside panels we found it easier to remove the extrusions (E-8) from the panels and install the clamps, then slide the panels back in place. The Hard-To-Top is designed with an overhang, and trying to install the SS clamps hanging out over the edge was a bit much. By removing the panel, it made this part easier and faster. The fasteners don't go through the polycarbonate panel on the outside pieces. 

Through the entire process, we used our rope clamp to keep the panels snug together being careful not to overtighten it. Our top required the center panel, two adjoining panels and two smaller outside panels. The two small outside panels were installed last.

We removed the protective plastic covering on the underside before we put the panel in place and installed the stainless clamps. The topside covering was removed as soon as each panel was installed. This kept us from scratching the surface as we slid new sections in place.

The smaller outside panels were put in place. These panels were tapered to allow for the shape of the top being wider in the back than the front, and the corners are rounded to fit the final frame.

With all of the panels in place and securely fastened, it was time for the outside frame to be installed.

The frame consists of four corner pieces - two bowed sections for the front and back and the side extrusions. 

The 90-degree corners have pre-drilled and tapped threads on two ends to allow the front and rear bows (HTE-1) to be slid into the corners and held in place for an exact fit. The two corners attached to the arched ends are put in place and can be adjusted if needed. The crew at Hard-To-Top did such a great job that the fit was perfect. We installed the back end first and with that section in place, slid the side sections (HTE-2) into the two corners. This part is where an extra set of hands really helps. Doing the install in the slip makes you very conscious that one misstep means a part going overboard.

The side extrusions (HTE-2) on our top are about 9 feet long. The only real adjustments we had to do were to be sure that the flat portion of the ends and side were 90 degrees to the polycarbonate panels. Loosening the set screws in the corners and a slight twist assures that everything is in the proper position.

The final step is to remove the set screws one at a time and drill and tap for the 10-24 screws. Then reinstall the screws using the Tef-Gel on the threads. Alignment is important to be sure that the hole drilled and tapped will go into the side and end extrusions. We did this for all of the screws on each end of the 90 degree corners.

Once everything has been drilled, tapped and secured, the hardtop was looking great and we were feeling good about how it looked. The strength of the structure is pretty impressive as well.

Our finished top will have a 3-inch overhang all around. The sides will actually overhang the entire width of the flybridge by 3 inches to allow water to off.

With everything in place to this point, we could take a break and stand back to admire our handy work. The top fit exactly as we expected and planned. We were almost finished, but there was one more small step before completion.

There is a small L bracket called a "3/4 cap" that needs to be attached to the E-8 channels and the end bows (HTE-1). The bracket is attached to the front and back end of each E-8 channels and the bottom edge of the front and back bow by marking them in place. 

Next, the marks need to be drilled and tapping for a 10-24 fasteners and screwed in place. This adds more security to help keep everything together in adverse weather conditions. 

Once these last pieces of the puzzle are put in place, the installation is complete. It's amazing how simple and easy the entire process went.

Needless to say, we were carefully watched by several folks in the marina as the day progressed. Everyone was impressed at how quickly we finished the project and more impressed with the finished results. We fully expect the hardtop to last for many more years than any fabric cover would have, and in the long run actually save us money by not having the constant replacement costs. We also like the ease of maintenance, only have to do a wash down when we do the rest of the boat. One concern was the inability to remove the top in storm conditions. After we finished the installation, we now feel that as long as the original bimini frame is well-secured, the top will not be an issue. We especially like the way the top will provide shade but still allow light through. For anyone considering a replacement for a fabric bimini, we highly recommend you look at Hard-To-Top. We're not sure yet whether we will add side curtains in the future or just leave the flybridge open.

A Bit Overwhelmed

I really haven't had to interview for many jobs. Most of the time I either knew the company and owner well or they knew me and approached me for a position. But the few times I have had an interview, one of the questions almost always asked was "what did I consider one of my major weaknesses." Right now that weakness has reared it's ugly head big time and I am feeling the effects. I never have to hesitate to answer the question because I know the answer all too well. I have always had a tendency to try and do too much at one time and start another project before I finished the previous one. After this weekend, that weakness has taken on a whole new meaning.

Where do I start? I have finally ordered our new autopilot and decided on the Garmin GHP-10 after doing lots of research. I found the best price for the Core Pack at the GPS Store. But their price for the 2.0L pump was higher than I found it at Anchor Express and The GPS Store didn't seem interested in price matching. All of the parts arrived promptly, so I immediately began to plan the layout and started mounting some of the system.

In the meantime, a friend in the marina had offered to help me lower the mast so I could work on the wiring and, more importantly, give it a good paint job. We took it down about the same time as the autopilot arrived. I was in the process of removing all of the hardware and rigging, and re-running the TV coax and wiring for the spreader lights. The mast needed a good sanding and priming before the paint could go on.

Our transmission has been on the list of things that must be done for quite some time. A leak in a seal or gasket has been a bother almost since we bought the boat. We've tolerated it to this point because the leak has been slight and a drip pad under the transmission has been sufficient. We do check the fluids regularly and top off as needed, but this had to be fixed before our next long trip. Well, wouldn't you know it. The planets aligned and the universe said, it's time. Our mechanic could get us on his schedule, the transmission shop wasn't busy and could get to it right away, and we had no plans to go anywhere soon. Besides, hurricane season has started in south Florida and we want the boat ready to move if we need to. So out came the transmission and while it's out, I want to replace the engine mounts, clean up, and paint around the compartment and engine parts while everything is open.

Ahhhh, but we're not done yet. I have been negotiating with the folks at Hard To Top for a replacement hardtop for our flybridge. The canvas bimini was not looking very good and we much prefer a hardtop to canvas. Our sailboat had a hardtop that we built ourselves and we really, really liked it. We finally agreed on a price and it was fabricated and shipped to us a couple of days ago. So Susan and I removed the canvas bimini and began installing the hardtop.

So that's where we are today and why I feel a bit overwhelmed at the moment. I have to stop and prioritize each project if I plan to get them all done in a reasonable time. I do work on each for a couple of hours each day. The mast has been painted and I am in the process of re-installing all of the hardware. It should go back up in a few days and that project will be done. The rest will be much further along by the end of the week. I need to start on relocating the house battery bank so there will be room for the generator, which is another install. But I've promised myself that I will not start anything else until all of these projects are completed. Yep, I promised myself.

Oh, and we just changed Satellite TV providers and the new satellite dish is larger, so I had to reinforce the Track-It system to handle the larger dish. A minor additional distraction. As we get these all completed we will post the details, so stay tuned.

WiFi on the Boat - Part 3

It has been a while since we have posted any additional information on our highly successful WiFi set up on the boat. To really see how we have arrived at this point, you need to go back and read our previous posts starting with Part 1 and then  Part 2. Our original WiFi set up worked great right up until the day we took it down and switched over to this new system. We have been using this for some time now, but I am just getting around to posting the how to and our results to date. The reason for the change was nothing more than seeing what was new and trying out this system because we have had a lot of positive feedback from other boaters. Our experience has been very positive although not quite the "wow" we expected.

For the last few years, we have heard a lot of chatter about the newer Ubiquiti Bullet that cruisers and boaters have been raving about. From Mexico to the Bahamas to New England, everyone has been posting excellent WiFi access with the Bullet so we just had to see what all the fuss was about. It was a difficult decision because our Engenius adapter was still providing us with all of the access we needed and one of my top rules is, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." But curiosity finally got the best of me and we purchased the Bullet M2 HP. A big plus was that the antenna for our original set up would work on the Bullet, so this part did not have to be replaced. Any money saved is always a good thing. The Bullet screws directly on to the antenna so no cable connection is required. The mounting components that we changed early on and have been using for years works great with the new hardware.

The Bullet fit perfectly in the PVC pipe mounting we have been using. This mount helps to overcome one of the problems with the Bullet - having it outside in the weather. It provides a waterproof housing that will keep moisture intrusion out of the cable. Unlike the Engenius adapter, the Bullet is attached via a Cat5 cable instead of an active USB. In this photo, we test fitted the Bullet and antenna to the cap to be sure the hole size did not have to be changed.

Once it was clear that everything would fit, a bit of sealant around the hole where the antenna passes through, and around the cap and bottom, made everything perfectly water tight. With the Cat5 cable, there is no restriction as to the length, so we carefully measured how much was needed to run from the mount, through the boat and to the computer. The computer is in our forward cabin where we have set up our "office." We do have another computer at the helm station and we want to be able to access that with WiFi also. A little more about that later.

The mounting looks clean and unobtrusive. In this location, it has done well for us, but on other boats, another location might work better. We have found that the higher up it is mounted, the better reception for the access stations. I also recommend that outdoor Cat5 cable be used or at least cover the cable to provide additional UV protection. Our cable runs down the bimini frame, into a vent near the bottom of the outside of the flybridge, down a wire run to the lower helm station and then into the forward cabin, starboard side.

The hardware installation is not quite done yet. Unlike the Engenius, the Bullet gets its power through a POE (power over ethernet) device. Be sure it is a 12-volt device since they can be purchased in various voltages. There are many sources for a 12-volt POE, including Pasadena Networks where we purchased our Bullet. The POE can be either 12-volt powered and wired directly to the boat's DC system or 120-volt powered, which means it will run off of the shore power, generator or inverter. The installation is simple. The incoming Cat5 goes into the input side and another Ethernet cable comes from the outlet to the computer, or as we did, a separate router.

Since we have multiple computers, we want to be able to access the WiFi on either computer and not have to plug and unplug them. We also want to be able to use the computers anywhere on the boat and not be restricted to the forward cabin. We chose the Cradlepoint Router, once again because of positive feedback from users. It isn't one of the least expensive routers, but we have found it to be of excellent quality. Our choice is the MBR 900 and it turned out to be a good choice for us.

Now here's where it gets tricky. Our Engenius was pretty much plug and play. If you are at all intimidated by setting up computer hardware, you might consider a couple of choices. These systems can be purchased, for a great deal more money, already put together and set up to run when you get them. Or you can use a system like our Engenius that is very simple to set up. There is a fair amount of extra effort to get the Bullet set up and running and even more to to add the router to the system.

If you still want to go for it, the next step is to set up the Bullet. An excellent how to can be found here and here. Although the second link is for a Nanostation, it works for the Bullet. The Cat5 cable needs to be connected from the Bullet to the POE and then directly to the ethernet connection on your computer. The POE must have power, either from your DC or AC system, in order to do any set up. Once you have followed all of the instructions for the Bullet set up and confirmed that it is working, the Router needs to be set up to work with the Bullet.

Rather than make this a very, very long posting, I will refer you to a good set up how to for the CradlePoint router. If you had no problem setting up the Bullet, you won't have a problem setting up the router. These instructions are specifically for the CradlePoint, so if you are using another brand, you are on your own. Once the router is set up, the Cat5 cable from the POE is connected to the input for the router. You computer is then set up to connect via WiFi directly from your router. Be sure and enable your security for the router and choose a very difficult password so no one else can log in to your network. And that's it. Hopefully all went well and you are blogging like mad.

And now for our review. We've been using this system for about two years now. We find it to be an improvement over the Engenius system, BUT not a major improvement. If we had to stay with our original set up, I wouldn't have the slightest problem with that. We do seem to pick up a few more access points ON OCCASION than we did with the previous system. But most of them are secure access points so we don't really have more connections. We have received signals from access points at two miles away or more with the Engenius and don't seem to do better with the Bullet. Perhaps once we are cruising in locations where we have not been before and where there are weaker signals to work with, the improvements might show up better. In the end, time will tell. For now it works fine and we have the old system as a back up should we have a failure. I feel very comfortable and confident with both systems. Whether you should upgrade is a decision you will have to make. If your current system is not living up to your expectations, then by all means upgrade. If you are starting from scratch, I highly recommend that you go with the Bullet. Good luck and stay safe.

And be sure to read our post on securing your WiFi connections.

Road Trip And A Short Cruise

We're often asked to give presentations to boaters during their organization's meetings and rendezvous. While we lived in Maryland for two years, I had to travel to Florida often to give these presentations, and now that we have moved back to Florida, of course I was asked to be a speaker at the AGLCA Rendezvous in Norfolk, Virginia. Susan and I recently joined the AGLCA (America's Great Loop Cruisers' Association) in preparation for our Great Loop adventure, which by the way will begin in just six or seven short months, if all goes as planned. My presentation for the Rendezvous was to be cruising the Delaware Bay, New Jersey Coast and the Hudson River. Everyone seem enthused and very interested, and we received lots of positive comments afterward.

Our unofficial count of the members was over 100 and most would be making this part of the Great Loop trip for the first time. There were a few that had done the trip in the past, and many had some good questions on issues and navigational information to make the passage safely. Much of the presentation was on the challenges and how to overcome them rather than the Chamber of Commerce version of where to stop and what to do. We left them to research that type of information in their favorite cruising guides. We brought a Power Point presentation showing charts, distances, hazards and channels along the route. Susan prepared most of the charts for the presentation and did an excellent job.

Afterward, the presentation lunch was served and it gave the members time to have a great meal, discuss their plans and ask more questions. The Rendezvous was held at the Sheraton Waterside Hotel in Norfolk, Va. The food was very good and so were the accommodations, if not a bit on the expensive side. We had to pay for parking and internet service separately, something that has always been included at every other hotel in which we have stayed. The location is great and we had a view of the anchorage at Hospital Point in Norfolk from a different perspective.

After the presentation is always a good time to meet members one on one and try to answer any additional questions they might have. This is always my favorite part, especially since we are the newbees in the crowd and many of these folks have been members for many years. It also gives us the chance to meet folks that we will see along the waterways when we begin our own trip. It's also a great feeling when we can come away knowing that we have helped our fellow boaters, even in some small way. It's our pleasure any time we can share our years of experience on the water.

The time flew by and we found ourselves back in South Florida on Beach House and not yet ready to get back to work. Our friends at the marina were planning a trip to Panther Key, one of the many small Keys in the 10,000 Islands area where we currently reside. The trip was planned for the weekend we returned so we made the decision to join them for Saturday and Sunday. We have to leave and come back to the marina at high tide because of several shallow spots in the entrance channel. It worked out well since high tide on Saturday was about Noon and 1 PM on Sunday.

A houseboat, a sailboat and a trawler anchor off a beach... No, this isn't the beginning of a joke, but it was the sight that most boaters saw as they passed by during the weekend. The trip from the marina to Panther Key is a short one, but it winds through and past many beautiful mangrove-lined channels and bays that are all part of the National Wildlife Preserve. We have really enjoyed living in this area and this was our first chance to get out and enjoy the scenery on the boat since we arrived from Fort Myers. Our friends on their houseboat and another acquaintance on their sailboat had come down on Friday and had their anchorage spots picked out. There was still plenty of room for us and the water depths allowed us all to anchor very near the beach.

It was wonderful to get away from the dock and be out on the hook again. We would much prefer to be anchored than tied to a dock anytime. It's difficult to explain the feeling of greater freedom when you are secured by your own anchor with no one sitting on the other side of the finger pier. Given the choice, we would probably almost never put into a slip. But necessity makes it something we have to do for now, and will have to do from time to time while cruising. But when we are cruising, not speeding from one location to another, we usually reserve marina stops for re-provisioning,  laundry, washing the boat and getting out of very bad weather. Even the bad weather is more comfortable for us if we are anchored in a protected location.

One small project we were anxious to try out was the new electric dinghy winch that was installed on the mast. This is a compact but powerful 12-volt winch rated at 2,000 pounds, much more than the 100+ pound dinghy. This is an addition to the small crane we installed to lift the outboard. Because of recurring back problems, we wanted Susan to be able to launch and use the dinghy and outboard without any help from me if necessary. This new addition proved to be the perfect final piece of equipment.

The winch itself is mounted on the back side of the mast just under the boom. It has a handheld control that will reach the lower deck, and a short attachment of line between the dinghy and the winch cable makes this the most logical placement. The proper size wiring had to be run from the winch to the power supply under the flybridge helm station. Since the radar cable was already run to the same area, the winch wiring just followed the radar cable. The winch is through bolted with 3-inch stainless bolts through the mast and the backing mount for the winch.

I really didn't want to run wiring all the way to the main electrical panel because of the logistics and the need for such large wires to avoid major voltage drops. The flybridge has pretty heavy power cables run to provide power to the bridge so all that was needed was a circuit breaker. The winch now has its own independent circuit breaker mounted in a plastic electrical box with a cover plate, cut to fit the breaker and a breaker face plate. The buss bar was installed to attach the winch wiring, but also to clean up the wiring under the flybridge helm station. It always amazes me what previous owners have done to boats.

The switch is mounted just inside the door under the flybridge helm station where it's easy to get to, but not in the way. When we are using the winch, we just reach in and turn it on, and when we are finished, we just reach in and turn it off. The breaker is always off when we aren't using the winch. This solved the problem of a long wiring run, but it still gives the circuit protection. The breaker is sized for the winch. This was actually probably the easiest wiring job I have done so far on the boat. I love it when a plan comes together.

It was time for the first test and the verdict is in. Susan has declared it a total success. As I stood by and watched, she dropped the dinghy in the water from the davits on the swim platform with almost no effort at all. I think her response was, "Way cool." She next raised the outboard off the stern bracket and lowered it onto the dinghy transom. I did help with this and positioned it on the transom of the dinghy as it was being lowered, but the entire process was effortless and either one of us could handle it alone if needed. And that was the plan.

So off we went to hit the beach and do some socializing. Our friends had a day on us and had already found a substantial amount of dead wood for a bonfire on Saturday night. We had a great afternoon catching up and grilled dinner on the foredeck of our friend's houseboat. This is no small houseboat and measures over 70 feet. They bring it down to Panther Key often and put the bow up on the beach. One anchor on the beach and the other astern keeps it sitting almost beached. There was some roll in the anchorage with the afternoon seabreeze blowing off the Gulf of Mexico and the tide and current flowing out. We also had a sudden rainstorm while we were enjoying dinner and everyone had to scramble back to their boats to close all of the hatches and ports. Things didn't get too wet. That night there was a major bonfire and dancing on the beach.

Sunday morning broke beautiful and sunny. The remnants on the beach showed little of the night before. One of the attractions of this Key is the great white sandy beach that stretches along the west side. There is good shelling, and with Gulf water temperatures in the 80s, some good swimming. All of us used the warm water and protected location to do some bottom cleaning on the boats. Our friend John came by with his dive gear and kindly went under the boat and cleaned our prop and rudder. We knew from the vibration and performance of the boat coming down the waterway that it must have been pretty fouled. What a difference it made on the trip back. We don't get in the water at the marina to clean the bottom because there are alligators lurking nearby.

Everyone spent the day Sunday enjoying the weather and hanging out. Our acquaintances on the sailboat were leaving the marina and heading for the Florida Keys. They planned to spend some time in the Dry Tortugas before heading up the U.S. east coast to Maine. We shared some information on the Dry Tortugas since they had never been there before and we had made a couple of trips when we were based out of the Keys. Their puppy thoroughly enjoyed the beach as much as we did. It was a super day, but the tide was near high and that meant it was time to head back to the marina.

There are a few places where the channel depths are only about 3 feet at low tide. Even with our 4-foot draft, we would be running aground at low tide. There are only a couple of spots, but it only takes one to ruin your day. A casual trip back takes us a little over an hour. It helps to have the current running with us and it can reach over 2 knots when running at max ebb or flood. There is also a lot of wildlife to keep us entertained on the ride home and provide good photo ops. A great end to a restful, relaxing weekend.