PROBLEM WITH MUSTANG INFLATABLE PFDS

Distributed by the Office of Investigations and Analysis: Http://marineinvestigations.us

October 4, 2012 Alert 3-12
Washington, DC
PROBLEM WITH MUSTANG INFLATABLE PFDS

The Coast Guard has become aware of certain Mustang Survival Inflatable PFDs with Hammar MA1 hydrostatic (HIT) inflation systems which may not inflate and require a new re-arm kit to properly  inflate by manual or automatic activation. This safety alert identifies which products are affected. Certain inflatable PDFs may be subject to delayed or non-inflations. To determine if you are impacted please follow the instructions below.

USCG Approval Mustang Product
N/A MA7214 HIT inflatable re-arm kit
N/A MA7218 HIT inflatable re-arm kit for LIFT
160.076/8611/0 MD0450 Inflatable Vest PFD with LIFT
160.076/5204/0 MD0451 Inflatable Vest PFD with LIFT (no harness)
160.076/5201/0 MD3183 Deluxe Inflatable PFD with HIT
160.076/8608/0 MD3184 Deluxe Inflatable PFD with HIT (with harness)
160.076/5300/0 MD3188 Inflatable Work Vest/PFD with HIT
160.053/116/0 MD3188 Inflatable Work Vest/PFD with HIT

If you have a re-arm kit MA7214 or MA7218 you need only to check the lot number on the CO2 cylinder label. If your CO2 cylinder is marked with lot numbers 404121 or 404122 please contact Mustang Survival’s customer service group at the number below.

If you have a PFD listed above refer to the sewn-in approval label to determine if it was “Made in Canada” and the “MFG DATE” is April or May 2012. If so, you will need to check the lot numbers of the CO2 cylinder. The CO2 cylinder lot number is visible through the yellow bladder fabric. Manually unpack your PFD by opening the zippers and unfolding your PFD. Find the CO2 cylinder that is attached to the round inflator within the yellow bladder. Press the yellow bladder fabric against the cylinder to read the label to view the lot number through the fabric. If your CO2 cylinder is marked with lot numbers 404121 or 404122, please contact Mustang Survival’s customer service group for instructions and to arrange for a replacement inflator assembly.

All other CO2 cylinder lot numbers are satisfactory. Repack your PFD so it is ready for use per the instruction manual. Mustang Survival Customer Service Group: 1-800-526-0532

Additional information is available at www.mustangsurvival.com/HIT. Please note the following photographs.

Distributed by the Office of Investigations and Analysis: Http://marineinvestigations.us To subscribe: Kenneth.W.Olsen@uscg.mil

Photograph showing view of lot number through fabric. Lot number on cylinder label.

This Safety Alert is provided for informational purposes and does not relieve any foreign or domestic requirement. Developed by the Lifesaving and Fire Safety Division, United States Coast Guard Headquarters, Washington, DC. For additional information contact Mr. Martin Jackson at Martin.L.Jackson@uscg.mil.

Relocating The House Batteries

The next big project will be the installation of an inboard generator. The engine compartment of a Marine Trader 34 is not known to be the roomiest, so a few modifications are needed to make space available. The most logical placement choice is a shelf on the port side forward where we installed the house battery bank when we first bought the boat. Even then, we knew they would eventually have to be moved to accommodate the generator. There was still some work to be done to clean up the wiring, so it was time to move the house bank and tidy things up.

The storage box and platform that was mounted directly in front of the engine had to be removed to make room for the house batteries. This location was chosen based on the ease of access when filling the wet-cell batteries and the fact that it would put the weight of the batteries low and in the center of the boat. Once the generator was installed, it will be important to shift weight around to compensate for the weight of the generator on the port side of the boat. The bilge pumps are located here so access to them is important too. Since it has been a long time since this area was uncovered, it needed a lot of cleaning and a fresh coat of paint.

The first step was to build a new shelf on which to place the batteries. The shelf needs to be strong enough to hold the weight and resistant to possible battery acid spills from normal charging and filling. The platform was also sized to allow for the addition of another pair of batteries should we decide to enlarge the bank. Our current house bank consists of two pairs of 6-volt golf cart batteries to give us a total of 440 amp hours on the house bank. With the generator installed, we may not need any more than this. But if our cruising habits show we need a larger bank, we can easily add another pair. The shelf was tabbed into place and covered with a layer of fiberglass cloth soaked in epoxy. This added strength and sealed the shelf from battery acid.

The space between the stringers is wider than the batteries, so a box to restrict movement and secure the batteries was needed. It, too, was coated with epoxy to seal it, and everything was given a fresh coat of paint. If we want to add more batteries, it will only take the removal of one side to expand the box.

The batteries were all disconnected from their previous location and moved into the new space. Each pair of 6-volt batteries were wired positive to negative to create two 12-volt batteries.

In my opinion, the best way to wire multiple battery banks is to have all charging sources and load cables connect to a common point. All connections are made to power posts and additional power strips rather than at the battery posts. The positive connections to the battery bank are fused for safety. I think the most efficient charging occurs when the cable runs from the charging source to each battery are the same length. To accomplish this, I used power posts for the positive and negative connections. The cable from each battery to the power post is exactly the same length. This way, there will not be the slightest voltage drop from the power post to either of the batteries. I refer to each pair of 6-volt batteries as a single 12-volt battery.

The only exception I made was the Echo Charger that keeps the start battery charged. The ground and the positive connection for the Echo Charger is connected directly to the battery. The wiring is much neater and easier to identify should troubleshooting be needed later. I also used covers on all of the positive connections to avoid shorts from dropping tools or other mishaps. The batteries are very easy to access, so checking water levels and refilling will be fairly easy. All cables, posts and connections received a coat of dielectric grease to prevent corrosion. All of the wing-nuts that came with the batteries were replaced with traditional nuts to keep them secure.

All of the battery cables were made to the length needed. The connectors were crimped on, and heat shrink tubing was used to seal the connectors. All of the cables were slightly over-sized for extra safety.

This area is the main location to climb down into the engine compartment for maintenance and repairs. For us short folks, it can be a long step down. To help protect the batteries from having things drop on them and to give me a place to step down into the compartment, a shelf or "step" was built to fit over the top. I can step down or sit on it while working in the compartment without stepping or sitting directly on the batteries. It is reinforced using a 2X2 screwed and epoxied to the underside for strength. A removable section was added just in front of the battery shelf to give some extra added flat space for moving around and to protect the bilge pumps. It is easily lifted to provide access to the lower part of the bilge. The next step will be to reinforce the platform for the generator. Stay tuned.

Can You Sink a Boat for Lack of a One Dollar Bolt??

I suppose theoretically it's possible. But can you really repair a 30-year-old radar unit for $30.00? I am here to tell you that you absolutely can, if the problem is the same as ours. Not long ago, I fired up our Raytheon SL70 radar unit and it all started fine. Once it was going, however, the beam was doing the sweeps, but there were no targets on the display. An internal self diagnostic showed everything was working okay, but obviously it wasn't. This unit is long past its manufacturing date and it's highly doubtful if Raymarine will even fix these any more or if it's worth it. So trying a few things couldn't hurt.

A short climb up our mast, and a little gymnastics, allowed me to remove the end of the cable from the back of the scanner. The weak link in these units has always been the fragile 8-pin plug that attaches the cable to the scanner and provides all of the data the display needs to function properly. The wires are very small and the flat plastic plug is very easy to damage. Upon further inspection, I found two wires that virtually came apart once I started moving them around. So the problem became obvious. But was the solution going to be simple? I considered doing some kind of direct connection between the wiring in the scanner and the cable. How complicated that would be was hard to tell without taking everything apart. So on to the computer for research. It seems this is a common problem and many folks either replaced the entire radar or replaced the cable with a used one purchased somewhere online like from Ebay or from individuals who were upgrading and had working units they wanted to sell. But well into about 10 pages on Google Search, I found a reference to a Raymarine part to repair the plug. But did Raymarine still sell the part?

It turns out that they do. An online search shows it's even available at Amazon.com and Raymarine will sell the product, part number R126, directly. It's only about $20, and with shipping, brought it to about $30.

The pins require a special crimping tool, which I don't have, but I was successful in crimping the pins with a pair of needle nose pliers. Care also needs to be taken to be sure that the wires are in the right sequence and that the pins are inserted into the plug in the correct orientation. They will actually snap into place and not be pushed back out when the plug is inserted if they are installed correctly. With the new plug attached and inserted in the scanner, and the power wires reconnected, it was time for the moment of truth.

And it works. Considering that a new radar unit would cost us about $3,000, I think this $30 investment really paid off. Sure we would like to have the latest and greatest in broadband radar. But we mostly use the unit for tracking rain squalls and keeping an eye out when we are running at night or in fog. Our aging RL70 will do that just fine, so we will use the savings for something more urgent or to splurge a bit while we're cruising.

Let us know what minors repairs you made that saved you major dollars. Click on the comments and share your story.

The Great Book Of Anchorages Website

As we promised, the new website for The Great Book Of Anchorages, http://www.tgboa.com/, is ready for visitors. Susan and I are about as excited as two kids on Christmas morning. You can order your copies now and they're ready for immediate shipment. This whole process has been such a fantastic experience that it's hard to put into words. From our decision well over a year ago to publish an anchorage book that will provide all of the information boaters like ourselves have looked for, until the launch of the website today, we have been like a couple of giddy school kids. Every step of the way has been a real thrill for us. But the website is a lot more than just a place to order the book.

We really thought it was exciting when we received the first run back from the printer. The book was even better than we imagined. Needless to say, we are very proud of the finished product. But when the final touches were done to the website today and our webmaster said, "Go for it", well, the feeling is unbelievable. What started as an idea in the back of our minds a long time ago is finally a reality that we can share with everyone. What still amazes me, even now, is that we didn't need a big publishing house or have to hire writers, editors or a large staff. We accomplished our dream with nothing more than a dream, a laptop, our experiences and a lot of hard work and late nights on the part of our Editor, Susan Landry. It's Susan's knowledge, experience and eye for nothing less than the best that made all of this happen.

We hope everyone will enjoy reading and using the book as much as we enjoyed putting it together. We also hope you will enjoy the many spectacular anchorages just as we have over the years. When you visit the website, be sure and take some time to view our photo galleries. One feature we like is the Interactive Map page where you can move around the map, zoom in and out, change the map look, and click on many of our anchorage photos. The photos are located on the map at the exact spot where we anchored on many of our trips along the waterway. The website will be a work in progress for a while. We will be working with our master webmaster to improve the look and enhance the experience. THAT'S WHY WE NEED TO HEAR FROM YOU. First, let us know if you find any glitches or anything unusual when you visit the site. We can get any problems corrected almost immediately. Also let us know if you would like to see any additional features. Most importantly, let us know what you think. You can drop a comment here at the end of the post or use the Contact Us page on the website. We welcome and appreciate your comments. If you're a Facebook user, don't forget to visit our Facebook Page. So enjoy and thanks to everyone for your patience and encouragement. Chuck and Susan

The Great Book Of Anchorages

Susan and I are very, very, very excited to announce the start up of Beach House Publications. Our first book for The Great Book Of Anchorages series covers the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway from Norfolk/Hampton Roads to the Florida Keys and includes the St. Johns River. The research for the book has spanned a period of 20 years. For the last year we have been working on an easy-to-use format that we felt comfortable using as active boaters. Once we decided on a format, Susan began putting all of the information together in a logical order. Many times we went to our boating friends for their input and suggestions. The result has been a publication written for boaters by boaters. We have developed an anchorage book, not a cruising guide or combination cruising guide and anchorage book.

Beach House Publications and The Great Book of Anchorages series was conceived and born on a laptop in the forward cabin of their current Marine Trader trawler, Beach House. The first in a series of anchorage books, Hampton Roads/Norfolk to The Florida Keys, Including The St. Johns River, has been decades in the making. Research began over 20 years ago with a first trip down the Atlantic ICW from the Chesapeake Bay to the Florida Keys and continues today. The information contained in The Great Book of Anchorages is the result of all of those many years of searching for the best anchorages along the way and the desire to share that information with other boaters. Having been users of almost every major boating cruising guide and involved in the publication of one of the larger guides, there was one aspect that seemed to be constantly missing. That missing aspect is detailed anchoring and free dock information. The Great Book of Anchorages now fills that missing information in a  new easy-to-use format. 

This is the first in what will be a series of six anchorage books that will encompass the waterways of the United States known as The Great Loop and a special edition covering the Bahamas. The Hampton Roads/Norfolk to The Florida Keys, Including The St. Johns River edition is now available to the boating community at our brand new website, along with lots of photos, interactive maps and interesting boating links. The publications can be purchased through our website at http://www.tgboa.com/, for an introductory price between now and September 30, 2012 The next edition will be The Bahamas, which is scheduled for release in the fall of 2013 after an updated research trip through the island chain. Additional books in the series will be the Chesapeake and Delaware Bay, New Jersey to New York, including the Hudson River, Chicago to Mobile, and finally the Gulf Coast Intracoastal Waterway from Mobile, Alabama to Cape Sable, Florida. The order and dates of release for the additional books will depend on input and requests from the boating community. 

This is the book most marinas are going to hate. The Great Book of Anchorages may very well become the standard for anchorage books to follow. Boaters can finally do an entire cruise without any marina stops or choose when they want to find paid dockage. The books are designed for information on anchoring and free docks and nothing else. It doesn't pretend to be a cruising guide or combination cruising guide and anchorage information.

•  Over 530 anchorages and free docks in the first edition.
• Anchorage and free dock details with color chartlets from NOAA charts.
• Mile-by-mile anchorage locations with GPS waypoints.
• Easy-to-use format and indexing for quick reference.
•  Discussions on types of anchors and anchoring techniques.
• Suggestions for planning your next trip.
• Save time and searching with anchorage locations at your fingertips.
• Save thousands of dollars in dockage fees.

If you would like more information on The Great Book of Anchorages series, drop us a line in the comments section.

Our new website, http://www.tgboa.com/ is live and ready for your viewing pleasure. You can also purchase your copy now at an introductory price until September 30. You can also visit our Facebook page.

Susan Landry, Publisher/Author/Editor

Chuck Baier, Publisher/Author