Winterizing The Boat Again

Never say never. In the past, I have said I would never be in a cold enough climate to have to winterize the boat again, and here it is our second winter in the Chesapeake and my second year winterizing. We are very fortunate to have a very nice couple that spends the winters in Florida (where we should be) who has asked us to house sit from December first to the end of March. This time frame works well for us, since the cold is starting to set in and the boat can be hauled for the winter. Upon their return, spring will have sprung, and we want the boat back in the water. Just prior to haul out, we begin the winterization process and finish it up just as we are moving off for the winter. Here are the procedures we use for our boat each year. Other boats with different systems may require something different or additional.

My first priority is to get the engine winterized as soon as it begins to get cold and we will not be leaving the slip again until it warms up. As long as we have heat in the boat, there is no danger of freezing, but the engine is by far the largest expense should a failure with the heating system cause the temperatures to really drop. Since our slip is just outside of the travel lift pit, we don't need the engine to move the boat for hauling. It can be done by hand pulling the boat from piling to piling.

I generally do a complete oil and filter change prior to the rest of the winterization. We have a nifty valve attachment on the top of the raw water strainer that allows the connection of a garden hose. By closing the raw water seacock and attaching a short piece of hose to the fitting, the engine winterization takes a matter of minutes. The other end of the hose is dropped into a five-gallon bucket of anti-freeze, and the engine is started. Susan is on the dock watching the exhaust discharge, and as soon as it is all anti-freeze coming out of the exhaust, the engine is shut down. If you don't have this attachment, remove the hose from the intake side of the strainer, and either add an extension to it or use a longer hose to reach into the bucket. Be sure the hose reaches the bottom of the bucke,t and do not allow it to suck air during the process. And that is it, simple, quick and painless. I also make sure the coolant/anti-freeze in the fresh water side is topped off.

The next step is the fresh water system, and the tanks need to be emptied as much as possible. We run the fresh water pump with all of the faucets on the boat open until air begins to come out. At that point, it is good to open a drain in the bottom of the tank to let out the last few gallons that the pump does not pick up. Next, the hot water heater needs to be drained completely and a bypass nipple installed. There are lots of fancy gadgets sold to do this, but we simply turn off the water pump, remove the fresh water hoses from the tank, and attach a 1/2 inch connector to bypass the tank. This prevents the heater from filling up with anti-freeze; ours is 11 gallons and shortens the time to flush the system in the spring. Once the hot water heater is bypassed, there are two options. We usually dump about three gallons of anti-freeze in each tank and open all of the faucets.We also have a large filter on the water system, and I remove the charcoal filter prior to this and fill the housing with anti-freeze. Then we turn the fresh water pump back on and wait for straight anti-freeze to come out of the faucets. As each faucets spits anti-freeze, we shut that one down until all of them are full, including the shower handheld sprayer. Be sure the hot and cold lines are both open.

Next up are the heads. Many folks simply dump anti-freeze into the heads and flush them until it comes out the overboard discharge. This only winterizes half the head's hoses. The intake hoses and intake valve portion of the pump housing will still be full of water and can freeze and crack. We shut off the intake seacock and stick the intake hose into a bucket of anti-freeze. The head is flushed until the anti-freeze is coming out of the discharge lines. If you have holding tanks, they should have been emptied by now and thoroughly flushed and cleaned. The anti-freeze from the heads should be pumped into the holding tanks until enough is present to prevent freezing. Then the Y valve switched over to pump the rest overboard and the discharge valves closed. Caution should be used to prevent water from being trapped in the seacock if the boat is being left in the water, since this can freeze and crack the seacock with disastrous consequences. If you are not sure, remove the discharge hose, and remove all of the water with a wet vac. To prevent this in our case, once the boat is hauled, the seacock is opened after the boat is out and the fluids allowed to drain, then we close the seacock. This allows the entire sanitation system to be winterized without fear of some part being missed.

One final system is the shower sump. The top of the sump is removed and all of the water extracted with a wet vac. The insides of the sump are thoroughly cleaned and wiped dry. The top is replaced and the anti-freeze is sent in via the shower drain. This assures that the drain is conditioned and the sump is filled until the pump kicks on and the anti-freeze flows out the discharge. Then, the sump pump is manually activated until all but a small amount in the bottom of the sump is emptied. That's it.

The final step for us is to have the boat shrink-wrapped. I used to think that this was a major waste of money, paying to have all of this plastic put over the boat, just to throw it away in the spring. But after a couple of winters here on our previous boat, we found that leaving it out over the winter for one season did more damage to the boat than five years of living aboard in the tropics. So for the last two winters, we have had it done and really don't regret it. This also makes working on the boat during the winter months, doing projects, much easier. In some cases, we would not have been able to do much at all without the shrink wrap. And with careful use of a kerosene heater, I can get it pretty comfortable under the shrink wrap to do some work on the outside of the boat.

To-Do List 2011

The to-do list is pretty long for this winter since a lot did not get done last year. So here are some of the items.

1. Replace the main electrical panel (already under way.)
2. Finish the installation of the remaining ports.
3. Finish installation of 12-volt fans in all cabins.
4. Remove and paint the swim platform (already removed.)
5. Install an aft bilge pump.
6. Move batteries to allow for generator installation.
7. Install the fuel polishing system and replace all engine fuel lines and filters.
8. Refinish all cabin floors and repair where necessary.
9. Finish painting of engine compartment.
10. Add lights in hanging lockers.
11. Install galley exhaust fan.
12. Replace some of the copper lines on fresh water system with PEX lines.

These are pretty ambitious goals given the fact that I will only have weekends for the most part. But we will see how it progresses, and much of this will depend on whether we have 8 feet of snow again and I can't get near the boat. I will be posting as each project is completed. The new AC/DC main electrical panel is about 1/3 finished, so I do feel good about that. It is an important project that is long overdue. Time will tell. Have a great holiday season.

Open WiFi On The Boat And Firesheep And Other Man-made Disasters

One of the most visited pages on this site and our Sea Trek site are the postings for our simple and inexpensive WiFi system that we have been using for years. Many of our cruising friends use WiFi, as we do, to get online, gather weather information, send and receive emails and do all of the other things people do through the Internet. For years, we have used available WiFi, whether from an open access point or from a marina, hotel or restaurant. If anyone has been on a boating site lately, the discussion has turned to Firesheep, a program designed to allow anyone with it on their computer to access your Facebook page while you are logged in and do anything you can do. There is one fellow out there, I won't mention his name, that has been on every boating discussion board on the net, doing his absolute best to scare the crap out of anyone that will listen. This fellow is making some claims that would lead the less educated in all things computer to believe that if a 12 year old has Firesheep on his computer, he can steal your life, take over your identity and clean out your bank account. He would have you believe that if you use any open WiFi, the sky will fall and life as you know it will end.

I suppose there is some motivation for folks to do this and some folks are very good at it. By using these fear tactics, they can announce to the world that you are in great danger and they are here to save the day. I like to call this the Mighty Mouse Syndrome. For the minions that hang on to this individual's every word, it represents something akin to a savior. For the rest of us, it simply creates a lot of anxiety and confusion. Instead of "MY GOD, YOU ARE IN GREAT DANGER," how about, "there is an issue we should all be aware of and I might make some suggestions as to how you can protect yourself." Of course that does not make one seem so important and all powerful. But, I would like to make you aware of an issue and offer some suggestions on how to protect yourself. Now keep in mind that I am not an expert in this field and do not now, or ever have, proclaimed to be one. What I would like to pass on is what has worked for us, and if you would like to use some of our suggestions, great. If you are still confused or unsure, consult a true expert in the field. Be sure they are indeed a true expert and have no nefarious intentions.

First to Firesheep and how much of a threat it might be to you. As I understand this, Firesheep allows someone to grab the cookies from many of the social networks like Facebook, Twitter or Flicker and have the ability to do whatever the real user can do. Now, this is something to consider as a potential threat, to a point. Firesheep only works with Mozilla Firefox browsers. So if you use Internet Explorer, it won't work. This is a free, open source piece of software put out on the net for anyone to download by a fellow named Eric Butler, so he could prove a point and perhaps he has. What I have learned is that Firesheep cannot hijack your computer, get your bank records or allow someone to obtain a credit card in your name. It will allow someone to post on your Facebook page or other social network pages and add or delete your pictures, etc. It will not give them your password since the login page is encrypted. Susan has a Facebook page and I would not want someone doing that, but it would be an annoyance and not earth shattering.

Since the Internet went public, people have been designing ways to get into your computer and grab your personal information. This is nothing new and will probably not change in our lifetime. Firesheep is not one of these programs, but they are out there and it does not matter whether you are using an open WiFi, a secure WiFi or a wired connection. There are ways and people capable of getting in, but they are usually not interested in you and I, especially if we don't make it really really easy for them. So I did say I would share what we do to try and secure our computer and our online activities.

A couple of years ago, I researched a software product called Truecrypt that will encrypt your entire hard drive on your computer. The program is completely free and has had some good reviews and feedback. Once you computer drive is encrypted, no one can access any information without your password. That is important should your computer ever be stolen. It will not interfere with the operation of your computer in any way and is fairly easy to set up. This type of security is great for those of you that have really become paranoid with all of these doomsday reports lately.

One step we took some time back was to do a better job of securing our WiFi and Internet connections, no matter what we used. Sitting in an Internet cafe in Belize or Guatemala, we often wondered who was watching us electronically. We were careful not to do any banking or serious personal work over these connections and that is still good advise today. But we did find that there are ways to encrypt your Internet activities by using a VPN. VPN stands for Virtual Private Network, and a VPN is used to secure data across a network. Even if someone could intercept your data, all they would see is a jumble of gibberish. A VPN is a very simple and easy solution for boaters looking to protect themselves whether on an open WiFi or using your local marinas secure access point. It will also protect you on a wired Internet Provider. One short side of VPN is that the VPN provider itself will be able to see your activity. So knowing the provider is as important as using a VPN, maybe more so. This is complicated by the fact that there are hundreds of VPN providers out there and little in the way of reviews and user feedback. When you use a VPN, it activates an encrypted "tunnel" through your internet connection to the server of the VPN provider. Once it reaches the providers server, it is decrypted and sent on to its intended destination. When the data is being sent back to you, it goes through the VPNs server and is again encrypted before it is sent to you, so once again it can not be accessed by anyone.  Many VPNs will also provide you with a spoofed IP address that can not be traced by anyone, giving you even further anonymity. All of this happens in nano seconds so you don't see any difference in your Internet experience. A VPN is a very easy and basic step to help secure your WiFi or other Internet data. If you did nothing else, this will help considerably. Do your home work before choosing a VPN provider since they are not all the same. We used a well know provider for over a year and then suddenly there service went to hell. Look for reviews and feedback from current users before signing up.

We also use several software programs on our computers, many are free. For overall Internet protection, we have used Comodo Internet Security for a few years now. It is totally free and has been a good performer in protecting us online. We don't tend to visit potentially harmful sites, but if we get redirected, Comodo has kept us safe. They have received many excellent reviews and recommendations from other trusted sites. The Internet Security suite contains an anti-virus program and a firewall, both needed to protect your computer. We also use a couple of Malware programs. We have used Ad-Aware for a long time and they too have a free version. Many of these free versions also have paid version if you need added security. We also use Malwarebytes and Superantispyware to round out our Malware software. Another recommendation we have just begun using and like very much is IObits which is a more comprehensive program with several useful tools. We use the free version of all of these and they do root out lots of things we don't want on our computer.

So, do we fear that our lives will be stolen if we use WiFi and open WiFi in particular? No we don't, but keep in mind, that is our opinion and we suggest the everyone make their own informed decision based on facts and not smoke and mirrors from another Mighty Mouse, here to save the day. Does that show my age? Now that these individuals have generated so much attention to products like Firesheep, there are probably thousands of people out there downloading it and trying it that would probably never have heard of it or considered it until now. There are always going to be people out there trying to steal your information by whatever means they can. You can do a couple of things to protect yourself and go on with life as usual. Or you could get off line forever and toss your computer into the deepest part of the ocean. As one poster suggested on another site, you could encase it in concrete and use it as a door stop. We don't let the fearmongers control our lives, we control our lives. Unfortunately, today there is too much misinformation and sensationalizing going on around everything we do. It is difficult to sort through the half truths, exaggerations and sometimes downright lies to know what is right and what is bull. I don't know if this information helps or makes things worse for you, but since being able to get online has become important to us and many other cruisers, I thought it should be something for me to share and comment on.

We are working on an upgrade for our WiFi system, that is how committed we are. I will be posting soon about that and how it has been working out so far. I plan to consolidate the two WiFi posts already up and the update very soon. So stay in touch and let us know what you think about this subject.


How do you feel about all of this? Are you concerned, frightened, don't really care? What have you done to make yourself more secure online? Leave a comment and let us know.

See part 1 of our wifi set up.
See part 2 of our wifi set up.
See part 3 of our wifi set up.

Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway Association Conference

I have just returned from the 11th Annual Intracoastal Waterway Association Conference in Portsmouth, VA, which was held on November 18th and 19th. I found the conference to be very educational and informative. The AIWA has long been considered the voice of the the Waterway. From their website,

"The Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway Association proudly represents the interests of commercial and recreational users of the waterway. AIWA is the only organization dedicated to ensuring the future of the AIWW and, as such, we have earned the reputation of being “The Voice of the Waterway.” Our members hail from 39 states and Canada and include both commercial and recreational users.


The Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway (AIWW) extends 1,200 miles from Norfolk, Virginia to Key West, Florida. Some lengths consist of natural inlets, salt-water rivers, bays, and sounds; others are man-made canals. Congress authorized the creation of the AIWW in 1919 and the entire waterway was completed in 1940.  The US Army Corps of Engineers is responsible for maintaining the waterway."

During the Conference, a number of speakers made presentations on the state of the Waterway, current conditions and ongoing projects. Representatives for the Corps of Engineers for the Norfolk, Wilmington, Charleston, Savannah and Jacksonville Districts presented reports on the current state of the Waterway, as well as future projects and expectations. The biggest challenge to the Corps at this time is funding for future dredging needs and disposal of dredging materials along vast stretches of the Waterway. Despite the economic benefits to the communities along the Atlantic coast, and the number of jobs that could be created through economic revival of these communities, it appears there is little hope of getting the much needed funding for these projects from our current Congress. Many of the current projects now underway and funded are from the stimulus funds issued last year. I was shocked to hear that the controlling depth of the ICW through the state of Georgia is only six inches. That is correct, inches, and there are virtually no funds designated for dredging in Georgia other than the Port of Savannah. Even that is up in the air to some extent. 

Amy Larson, President of the National Waterways Conference, gave a chilling report on how the new Congress will affect the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway. Many in the room felt that most of the needed funding could be judged as Earmarks to the Congress and might be delayed or not funded altogether as the Earmark becomes a target for the new House and Senate members. Many members represent the commercial interests along the ICW and spoke of the challenges and loss of business, not only to their companies, but to major shipping ports along the east coast. All of this translates into job losses, something our representatives have sworn not to let happen. Yet many have taken a stand that will, in fact, cost jobs and loss of tax revenues. I was also surprised to hear that, in deciding whether to fund Waterway projects such as dredging, recreational interests are not included, and the decisions are, in fact, based on tonnage for commercial value. We did have a couple of Congressional representatives present on Friday, and my conclusion from listening to them was that they did not have a clue as to how this current Congress is going to act, react or be able to do business. A very sad state to say the least. 

It was not all doom and gloom; there will be dredging for the ICW at Miles, 117, 122, 153, 195, 286, 300, 321 and 330. Many of these areas are known problem spots like Lockwoods Folly, Matanzas Inlet and other shoal spots that we have dealt with for years. There will be no additional funding currently for the Savannah and Charleston Districts. In the Jacksonville District and much of Florida, 80% of the funding for dredging comes from the Florida Inland Navigation District. F.I.N.D is a special State Taxing District to raise funds for the maintenance and upkeep of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterways in Florida.

On Friday evening, we had the opportunity to see the Waterway first hand from Mile 0 in Norfolk, on board the Carrie B, a replica of a 19th century paddlewheeler. It gave me the chance to talk with many of the members in a less formal atmosphere and get a real sense of the concern everyone had for the future of the Waterway. Everyone agreed that it will take a concerted effort from all concerned - the recreational user, the commercial users and the businesses and communities along the Waterway - in order to institute change and bring about any real progress.  If you have a vested interest, you need to contact all of your representatives in Washington, and encourage them to support the funding for these improvements. They need to understand how these projects are job creators and economic stimulators. If they see a pothole in the road, they understand it needs to be fixed. They can't see the impact the lack of dredging has on the people, communities and businesses along the ICW, so it lacks importance to them. They need to be made to see just how important this is.

That is my political rant for the year. I will try and get back to projects and happier boating stuff very soon. Thanks.

Catching Up On Work And Boat Projects

Time flies when your having Rum. At least I wish that was the case, but in  fact it is work that has made time fly and I have come to understand more and more that work really screws up my boat time. Susan and I have done both the Annapolis Sailboat Show and Annapolis Power Boat Show for Waterway Guide. Susan has sent the final two Editions, the 2011 Northern and Great Lakes Editions, of  Waterway Guide to the printer and we have been working on a variety of other projects at the office. I will be attending the 11th annual Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway Association Conference  in Norfolk, VA for two days to speak on the advancement and evolution of electronic navigation. The weather is very fall like, the leaves have gone through their annual color changes, and most have fallen to the ground after our last rain and wind storm, and it is getting progressively cooler every week. A reminder that winter is coming upon us quickly. We have already made plans to haul the boat in early December and move into our house sitting routine until spring. All of these thoughts don't fill my mind with warm and fuzzies. Especially when many of our cruising friends are sending us reports from out on the water, in much warmer places.

We have finished a couple of small projects. The aft windows in the main salon developed a new leak during a very heavy rain storm not too long ago. Those have been replaced and we have had a new windshield made for the flybridge. The windsheild was installed this weekend. The work on the ports continues but at a snails pace. We did find some great shades for the new ports called Peek-A-Boo Shutters. They are not inexpensive, but they are very innovative and look much better than anything we might have come up with. They offer us privacy when we need it and light when we want it. Most of the other projects are going to get  postponed until the boat is hauled. They can be done in the winter while we are off the boat and it is not so disruptive. The main electrical panel is in need of replacement so i won't have to worry about doing without some service on the boat while I am sorting out and replacing old wiring. Now I will be able to take as long as needed rather than trying to finish in one day. Yeah, right.

Since this year will be my second winterization of the boat since we returned to the Chesapeake, it should go a little faster. We plan to move ashore in the house that we will be "sitting" until spring, on December 1st and the boat will not be hauled until the 6th. I will be able to winterize all of the systems, the fresh water, heads, engine, shower sump, etc. as soon as we move off. We are only a few slips away from the travel lift so we don't even need to start the engine to get hauled. I usually try to start the winterization  process with the engine, about a week in advance of being hauled. It is much easier to do everything while the boat is still in the water than to try and do it on dry land. I will do a detailed post on our winterization procedures here as soon as it is finished.

We have a lot on our todo list for this winter. Then again, we did last year too, The eight feet of snow we had last year until spring made shortening that list a bit difficult. Plans for this year include refinishing the floors, lots of electrical work, moving the battery banks to make room for the generator, glassing and painting the flybridge and installing new seats. And this is just the first few items. It feels ambitious but we are hoping that weather will cooperate this year. If not, we will concentrate on some writing projects we have been putting off and of course work at the office will begin to pick up again. If we don't post projects, from time to time we will add an article or two on some of our favorite cruising spots. It always makes us feel a little better on those cold winter days and nights dreaming about fun times in warmer climates. We will try and make it interesting so stick around. Spring is just around the corner.

Marine Safety Advisory------Distracted Operators

United States Coast Guard
Assistant Commandant for Marine Safety, Security and Stewardship
Marine Safety Advisory 01-10
October 29, 2010
Washington, DC

DISTRACTED OPERATIONS
     Don't let it be you!

Throughout the United States, and across all transportation modes, safety initiatives are being established to address issues related to Distracted Operations.  The Coast Guard recognizes the importance of this issue, understands the potential consequences caused by increased operational risk in marine operations, and is supportive of the goals and objectives of the U.S. Department of Transportation and other distracted driving safety initiatives.



With respect to vessel operations, the bridge team management approach to safe navigation is an essential element of risk management and safe vessel operations.  The team approach to safe navigation requires the clear, frequent and accurate exchange of information between all crewmembers relative to the safe operation of the vessel.  In other evolutions, such as discharging cargo, loading fuels, etc., full attention is required by all involved in order to prevent casualties or pollution incidents.  Additionally, when mariners are navigating or working alone, the use of cellular or other devices unrelated to the operation at hand could impede the exchange of vital operational information, delay reaction time, or cause attention lapses of those involved which could  result in unwanted circumstances having very serious consequences causing injuries and fatalities, material damage, and environmental impact.

NTSB findings in investigations involving other transportation modes have found that the use of cellular telephones and other wireless devices can degrade performance, slow response times, and increase attention lapses of those in safety-sensitive positions. A recent executive order signed by President Obama prohibits text messaging by federal employees, including contractors, when driving government vehicles or their privately owned vehicles on government business. Most states and the District of Columbia (DOC) have recognized the risk and banned texting while driving. Nine states and the DOC have banned the use of handheld cellular telephones while driving.  Lastly, the United States Department of Transportation has established a national initiative focusing on Driving Distracted.  (More information is available at http://distraction.gov.)

The potential risk associated with improper use of cellular telephones and other devices in the marine environment while navigating or performing other vessel functions should be apparent to vessel owners and operators. 

Consequently, the Coast Guard strongly recommends vessel owners and operators to develop and implement effective operational policies outlining when the use of cellular telephones and other devices is appropriate or prohibited.

This advisory is for informational purposes only and does not relieve any domestic or international safety, operational or material requirement. Developed by the Headquarters Office of Investigations and Analysis.   Questions may be forwarded to HQS-PF-fldr-G-PCA@uscg.mil.

+++++

Office of Investigations and Analysis:  http://marineinvestigations.us
To subscribe: Kenneth.W.Olsen@uscg.mil

15 Steps To New Ports On The Boat

Our original 30 year old ports were really looking pretty shabby and a couple of them had begun to leak. We did some temporary caulking, which I don't like to do, but it was obvious that it was time to replace them. After a lot of research, we found some very good looking stainless steel ports at New Found Metals   and ordered the 5X12 Stainless with screens and all of the needed materials for installation. We have received a lot of positive feedback from other boaters that have installed their ports and were very happy. The price was pretty good, and the ports arrived in short order. It was time to start the replacement process.

Step 1. Removing the old ports is always a messy process. Ours had a teak trim ring on the outside that came off in pieces. It is hard to tell in the photo, but we used white duct tape around the trim ring so we could get a wide putty knife behind it and not damage the paint in the process. Beach House has had the cabin sides painted with AwlGrip so it is not just gel-coat.

Once the trim ring is removed, the old caulking and crud that has collected under it had to be thoroughly cleaned. We used Acetone and then carefully sanded where the new trim ring would go to help with the bonding of the new caulking.

Step 2. Next, the inside main section of the port had to come out. This is the worst one on the boat and also the one that began to leak again. (Not to mention the fact that it looked horrible.) That is why we started here. The screws came out fairly easily, but since the interior plywood is pretty thin, we had to be very careful to not damage the surrounding wood when pulling this off.

The wide putty knife was used again, and slowly and carefully, we coaxed it off without too much of the veneer on the plywood coming with it. It was actually surprising that it came off so easily. Next, the old caulking had to be gently removed and the wood repaired.

We taped a box over the opening in order to continue working without making a mess on the interior shelf just below the port.

Step 3. There were some spaces and gaps in the plywood core between the outer fiberglass and the interior plywood. We filled the space and gaps with an expandable water resistant foam. Once the foam had set, it was trimmed even with the old opening.

Step 4. We would need to make a template since the new ports were a different shape than the old ones. The new ports have a drain built in, and the corners are shaped slightly different. The overall size of the new ports is very close to the size of the old ones. We took a heavy folder and laid the trim ring on top. With a rubber mallet we tapped all around the trim ring and made an impression of the hub marks. This is where the fasteners will come through from the inside.

With the trim ring still in place, the ring is traced on the template materials. You can trace both the inside and outside of the trim ring, or do as we did, and only trim the inside. If you do this, take care to be sure the top of your template material and the trim ring are in perfect parallel. With the trim ring removed, trace out the locations of the hub marks. These will be used to drill your holes. Once the actual trim ring is traced, the inside perimeter will need to be offset about 3/16 of an inch as will the hub marks.

The template will need to be cut out and we used an exacto knife that can be found in any hardware store.

Step 5. Once the template is finished, it needs to be secured to the outside of the cabin. Take care that it is flat and will not move around as you trace it on the cabin side and also that it is lined up properly. You can take measurements from the surrounding area, or, as we did, use the top inside edge of the template and the top edge of the old cutout for alignment. The area for the drains and the minor adjustments for the corners were marked with a felt tip pen and the template removed. The minor cutting to make the new size fit was made easy with our new Dremel Trio. I have a feeling this is going to be one of my favorite tools. The holes for the fasteners are also drilled using a drill guide supplied by New Found Metals. The drill guide assures that the holes are drilled at the correct angle so that the outer trim ring and the port itself will line up perfectly for the fasteners.

Step 6. Once the opening was cut, we did a dry fit to make sure everything was going as planned. So far so good, and it was time to seal up the core between the outside fiberglass cabin side and the interior wood. This is a messy process so we make sure the inside is covered with duct tape to keep the epoxy off the interior wood and the outside is protected with heavy paper taped in place. The core is coated using West System Six10.  A two inch strip of fiberglass tape wetted with West System is carefully laid around the opening to completely seal it and add strength. This is the same process we used in repairing the windows.

The one inch fiberglass strip should be trimmed with a utility knife along the edge of the opening, just before the epoxy kicks off completely. This is much easier than trying to cut and grind after the epoxy has hardened. Once the epoxy has set, it needs a thorough sanding and wiping down with water and a 3M pad. This removes the blush from the epoxy which can prevent anything from sticking to it and get the opening ready to accept the bedding compounds.

Step 7. The holes on the outside will also need to be counter bored about 1/2 inch to accept the trim ring. We also purchased the counter bore from Newfound Metals and it is of good quality. Be careful not to let the counter bore get away from you.

Step 8. The stainless trim ring and the port itself need a good cleaning with Acetone. This removes any dirt and residue left on the ports from the manufacturing process and assures that the bedding material will stick and seal the ports.

Step 9. The fasteners will probably be a little longer than they need to be and will bottom out before the ports are tight in the opening. We took careful measurements of how long they needed to be and cut them shorter with our handy Dremel tool and heavy duty cutting wheels.

Step 10. The bedding process is probably the most important step in the entire installation. Remember that beside them being ugly, they leaked and we did not want to go through this entire process only to have them leak again and start over. We did one final dry fit before applying the bedding compound. For bedding ports, our preference has always been butyl tape. The stuff is tenacious, lasts forever and is really really sticky. It can be found at most any RV supply store or it can be ordered with the ports. Newfound Metals recommends the ports be sealed really well on the inside and outside. We prefer minimal sealing on the inside and serious sealing on the outside. We want to keep the water on the outside of the boat. A single bead of the butyl tape around the inside of the port is all we used. The space under the drain portion of the port needs a few extra layers. This is more to hold the port in place than it is for bedding purposes.

We also put a thin bead of butyl tape around the hub marks on the trim ring to seal around our counter bore holes.

Step 11. The main section of the port needs to be clamped into place. It is very important that the port line up properly with the holes drilled for the fasteners and the outer trim ring. The port and trim ring should be lined up in place, the port clamped and the trim ring removed. Do this before you put the butyl tape on the trim ring. Tighten down on the clamps. The strip of butyl tape that was placed on the post should squeeze into the opening and allow the clamps to be removed for a short period of time to position the trim ring. But there is a little more that needs to be done first. Once the port is positioned where it should be, the space between the port and the opening in the cabin side has to be filled in with butyl tape. We added two complete rings. Running a ring around the entire port by using the paper that the tape comes on and a plastic handle from putty knife, we forced the butyl tape into the opening. Unfortunately, I was too busy with the project to take a photo. At a minimum, two rings should be forced into the opening. We pushed it in as far as we could, being careful to not leave so much along the outer edge of the port that when we installed the trim ring, it would squeeze out all over the port and ring.

Step 12. With the butyl tape added to the hubs wrapped with butyl tape, the rest of the trim ring needs to be well caulked. For this, we used 3M 4000 UV just in case we will ever have to remove the trim ring in the future. I can't caution enough on the butyl tape. Use enough to completely seal everything, but not so much that it will squeeze out from behind. The stuff is really sticky and hard to clean off.

Step 13. Remove the clamps and bolt the mainframe of the port and the trim ring together. We put a dab of 4000 on the beginning of the threads and a dab of Tef-Gel just under the bolt head. This seals the threads in the trim ring and keeps the head of the fastener from seizing when it comes down to tightening. We tighten down each fastener a little at a time, going round and round until the port and trim ring are tight. We try not to over tighten so that all of the bedding will squeeze out. There should be enough bedding to form a gasket.

Step 14. The 3M 4000 should be applied so that it DOES squeeze out from all around the trim ring. For that, we tape around the ring and the mainframe flange to make clean up easier. But the excess caulk needs to be removed right away before it dries. We use a caulking knife to remove most of it and then Acetone and lots of rags for the final clean up. If any of the butyl tape did squeeze out, it can be cleaned up with metal polish or car wax.

Step 15. Give the entire stainless mainframe and trim ring a good cleaning with a quality metal polish. The finished port will look fantastic.

The interior wood had suffered some damage and the teak had been water-stained from the leaks. No matter what we did, it was not going to look nice, and with the new port, we did want it to look good. Since this area is a storage shelf and in a corner, we decided to try and paint just this area and see how it would look. It could not be any worse. We were very pleased in how the paint turned out, and except for some wiring that needs to be covered, we are declaring this project a success. So, one down and four more to go.

The Okeechobee Waterway

Excerpt from the 2011 Southern Edition Waterway Guide, Editor, Susan Landry :

The Okeechobee Waterway is considered by many to be the dividing line between Central Florida and South Florida. When traveling from the north, this is where you will begin to see greater changes in the climate and vegetation, and even in the people—more “Northerners,” either seasonal “snowbirds” or full-time transplants, and a decided increase in the Latino culture. And please journey along with us on our photo tour of the Waterway here.

During the last week of May 2011, we transited the Okeechobee Waterway from Stuart, Florida to Ft. Myers Beach Florida. You can read about our transit here and here and get even more details.

Opened in 1937, the Waterway offers a chance to see rural Florida, with small towns much as they were early in the last century. The scenery varies as the passage progresses from east to west from river to canal, to lake, to canal, and back to river again. On the Okeechobee Waterway, ranches and big commercial farms alternate with moss-hung wilderness, while bustling boomtowns coexist alongside sleepy villages that popped up long before Miami was built. With its backwaters and “bywaters,” its islands and coves, and its flora and fauna, the Caloosahatchee River was once the only way to get from the Gulf of Mexico to Central Florida, via small steamers and freighters. Some still consider the Caloosahatchee (76.6 miles) the most scenic part of the Okeechobee Waterway, thanks to the old river’s off-channel oxbows. Small cruise ships now occasionally make the trip.

For the boater, the Okeechobee Waterway and Lake Okeechobee provide quite a transition from the pace of busy coastal cities to the tranquility of Florida’s heartland. The Waterway is also a tremendously efficient route from the east coast to the west coast of Florida, the only alternative being the long trek down around the Keys and up across Florida Bay, or vice versa. The Okeechobee Waterway is 154 or 165 statute miles (134 or 144 nautical miles), from the Atlantic Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico, depending on whether you take Route 1 across Lake Okeechobee (8.6-foot depths in 2010) or the Rim Route (6.0-foot depths also in 2010; use at your own risk because of debris) along the lake’s southern shore. The Waterway can be divided into three distinct sections:

1. From Mile Zero (the intersection of the Okeechobee Waterway and the Atlantic ICW at St. Lucie Inlet) up the South Fork of the St. Lucie River to the St. Lucie Canal to Lake Okeechobee.
2. Lake Okeechobee itself (either the “Open-Water Route” directly across the lake, or the “Rim Route” along the lake’s southern shore).
3. From Clewiston through the Caloosahatchee Canal and down the Caloosahatchee River to the end of the Okeechobee Waterway in San Carlos Bay, at Mile Zero of the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway (GIWW) heading north.

On Lake Okeechobee, a skipper has the choice of two routes for crossing. The first, Route 1, is an open-water crossing (39 statute, 34 nautical miles, 8.6-foot controlling depths at publication), and the second, Route 2 which is also referred to as the Rim Route (50 statute, 44 nautical miles, 6.0-foot depths at publication; use at your own risk), follows the shoreline south from Port Mayaca, on the eastern shore, before entering a tree-protected rim canal and running past Clewiston to Moore Haven.

Cruising Characteristics
Chart 11428 covers the area from the intersection with the Atlantic ICW to Fort Myers, and Chart 11427 continues down the Caloosahatchee River to the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway (GIWW) and the Gulf of Mexico. From that point, cruisers have the option of moving north on the GIWW to the Sun Coast, outside in the Gulf to the Big Bend or the Panhandle, or south to southwest Florida and the Keys.

Caution: Much of Chart 11428 is at a scale of 1:80,000; this is different from the charts adjoining at either end, 11472 and 11427, both at 1:40,000, the usual Waterway scale. Chart 11428 has two insets at its eastern end and one where it reaches Lake Okeechobee, plus an extension at its western end—all of these are at various larger scales.


Navigating Locks
The water level in Lake Okeechobee is higher than anywhere on the Atlantic Ocean or Gulf ICW. Whether you are headed east or west, you ascend through the locks to Lake Okeechobee, and then descend after you leave. The Waterway has five modern, spacious and well-handled locks and more than 20 bridges, ranging from electronic-controlled to hand-operated. Normally, locks operate between 6 a.m. and 9:30 p.m., but check ahead for current lock-through schedules.
Locking through is simple compared to procedures necessary in the northeastern U.S. canal systems. Lock personnel furnish all necessary lines and regular fenders will suffice when locking through. Allow approximately 15 minutes once inside a lock. The Okeechobee Waterway locks are easier to transit when you are the only boat locking through, and if the lock attendant gives you the windward dock line first when winds are strong. Gusty winds can set up a surge in the locks, so use caution. The attendant also might warn you that you could be locking through with a manatee or an alligator. Lockmasters on the Okeechobee are usually helpful and courteous.

Note: The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers requires boat operators to turn off radar units during lockage to avoid exposing lock personnel to possible radiation risks. It is recommended, however, that engines be left running.

When you reach the dolphins and the sign ARRIVAL POINT before each lock, contact the lockmaster on VHF Channel 13, give your vessel’s name and direction, and request lockage. At that time, they will inform you of the current lockage status and estimate your wait time. It could be as long as 45 minutes to an hour in the unusual case where they have just started locking through from your side. The lockmaster will also instruct you as to port- or starboard-to, indicating which side of the lock to steer to and how to arrange your fenders; see the Bridge Tables in the Skipper’s Handbook section for the side normally used. The lockmaster will then indicate for you to enter when the traffic light is green.

If you receive no response on VHF, sound two long and two short blasts. (Not a part of the Waterway, Clewiston Lock is used to leave the Waterway and reach the facilities at Clewiston; it is the only lock without VHF radio.) At each lock, for the smallest of craft, there is a pull-cord hanging down by a sign marking its location. The green light is your signal to enter the lock. The lockmaster will then hand you, or drop to you, a bow line and a stern line, or the lines will be hanging down from the top of the lock’s sidewall and you will have to steer to them and pick them up (in this case, keep a boathook handy).

When your boat enters at the lower level and is to be raised in the lock, take care that the line does not hit you in the face when it is dropped by the lockmaster. Be prepared for moderate turbulence as water rushes in or out of the lock. Two people can safely handle a small or medium-sized boat, but an extra pair of hands is always useful on large boats. Single-handing through the locks is not safe and is strongly discouraged.

Check when you are doing your pre-cruise planning, and recheck again at the first lock, to make sure the entire Waterway is open. Maintenance on the locks is normally done each summer, and through-passage from the East Coast to the Gulf Coast may not be possible for as long as several months. During such times, Lake Okeechobee may be accessible from one side or the other, but not both. During a drought, lockage may be restricted depending on water supply. Call the Corps of Engineers at Clewiston (863-983-8101) for information or go to the Internet at www.saj.usace.army.mil and use the “Coastal Navigation” selection from the menu, followed by the link to “Navigation Projects and Studies.”


Depths and Clearances
The depth of water in Lake Okeechobee can vary widely as a result of rainfall onto the drainage area to the north and the lake itself. As a result of an ongoing drought, the level fell to a record low of 3.36 feet in mid-2007 — the lowest level ever recorded — but lake levels had recovered to 8.6 feet in early 2010, due to hurricanes in 2008 and a tropical storm in 2009. The Corps of Engineers and the South Florida Water Management District manage the level of the lake. There are a variety of ecological, environmental and economic reasons for various levels, and some of them conflict with others.

The depths charted in Lake Okeechobee are based on a datum of 12.56 feet. If skippers know the lake level, they can determine the difference between the datum and the current level and modify the charted depths accordingly. Depths in the sections between dams on either side of the lake vary slightly with lake level changes, but the differences are seldom enough to affect navigation.

The Port Mayaca Railroad Bridge, Mile 38.0, sets the 49-foot controlling vertical clearance of the Waterway. If you have any questions about clearance, call the Corps of Engineers at Clewiston (863-983-8101). Sailboaters can have their masts unstepped at Stuart, or wait and have it done at the Indiantown Marina, which is closer to the Port Mayaca Bridge.



Navigating the Okeechobee Waterway
With the exception of a lake crossing in imperfect weather, passage along the Okeechobee Waterway is easy, piloting is simple and navigational aids are adequate for daytime running. Aids to navigation are numbered in several sequences from east to west all the way across; even-numbered red aids are on the starboard side (as they are southbound along the Atlantic ICW). Conversely, leave red aids to port eastbound on the Waterway, as you would when northbound on the ICW. Reservations are recommended at marinas on the Okeechobee Waterway.

Nighttime navigation is not recommended, because shoals and deadheads (partially submerged objects) are obscured. Fortunately, ample facilities and occasional anchorages make after-dark travel unnecessary. Some of the bridges operate daily from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. and require a minimum of three hours notice to open at other times. Phone numbers are posted on each bridge; calls are best made during normal office hours. You can use adjacent dolphins for tie-ups. Anchoring in approach areas to some of the locks is also possible, and the lockmasters can provide local knowledge concerning depths and conditions. As mentioned before, aids to navigation are the same as the ICW pattern: going west, keep red aids to navigation to starboard, green ones to port; yellow squares and triangles are shown on dayboards and buoys.

Currents are not a problem in the Okeechobee Waterway, except for the turbulence that occurs when locks are opened. Average tides at the mouth of the St. Lucie River are 0.9 feet; 1.2 feet at Fort Myers; and 2.4 feet at Punta Rassa (at the western end of the Okeechobee Waterway) near Mile Zero of the GIWW heading north.

Weather
Central Florida weather is generally benign. In winter, the prevailing wind is north to northeast, as opposed to summer, when wind is normally east to southeast, with very little rain except when cold fronts from the north pass through. Summer days are calm in the mornings, with occasional patchy fog; winds pick up at about 10 a.m. Afternoons often bring showers and thunderstorms, particularly late in the day, so it is a good idea to plan on getting in early. Hurricanes do occur in season, June through November.

Since Lake Okeechobee is the second largest freshwater lake located wholly in the continental United States. (Lake Michigan is the largest), it can get nasty. You should know which forecasts cover the area. The continuous NOAA marine weather comes from West Palm Beach and Fort Myers on VHF Channel WX-3, and from Belle Glade on WX-2.